swortsoul Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I'm building a list of things I need to work on the 2002 Le Mans. There is something seeping oil in front of the left cylinder. I've downloaded a manual for a V11 sport. I'm not sure it is the same as my bike, but I will ask Moto International when I get there later this week. I think it's the rpm and tdc sensor. First, is that correct? Second, what would cause it to leak? I'm guessing the gasket. It's not leaking oil. There is no oil on the ground. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 That's where it is leaking. Remove the sensor, clean the mating surfaces with BrakeKleen and apply a small amount of silicone sealer to the sensor and shim and where it will mate to the block. Install and allow to dry overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swortsoul Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 That's where it is leaking. Remove the sensor, clean the mating surfaces with BrakeKleen and apply a small amount of silicone sealer to the sensor and shim and where it will mate to the block. Install and allow to dry overnight. Thanks for the instruction and confirmation. I just saw a post by Vuzzi in the "Popping and misfiring" thread. It sounds like the same issue as mine. I also have had some misfires at low rpm. If that did help it, that would be great. I will still need to go through the whole tps thing, balancing etc. as well. Looks like there's more than just slapping on a gasket for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 The throttle body sync / tps adjustment is (difficult the first time) easy to perform. Are you good with feeler gauges, DVOMs and thinking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swortsoul Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 The throttle body sync / tps adjustment is (difficult the first time) easy to perform. Are you good with feeler gauges, DVOMs and thinking? Never touched a feeler gauge before, but the concept seems simple. Have a EE degree and built tube amps, so no problem with DVOM. Like to think I'm not stupid, some may disagree. As I said in one of my other threads, Moto International and Micha are only a few miles away if I do something really rash... I'm going to jump on in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emry Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 The throttle body sync / tps adjustment is (difficult the first time) easy to perform. Are you good with feeler gauges, DVOMs and thinking? Like to think I'm not stupid, some may disagree. You bought a Guzzi....Nuff said.... Welcome to the club. Since you have the DVOM covered, the correct "feel" when using feeler gauge is similar to putting a piece of paper in the middle of the phone book and pulling it out. A drag should be felt. Easy to practice on a Guzzi at least, open an close the clearence to feel the difference between too loose/too tight and just right, 15 minutes and you will have it down. A little grease on the valve cover gasket will ease removal next time, unless your are one of the replace everytime type. Hylomar finally fixed my "phase sensor" leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 #1 Disconnect the linkage between the two throttle bodies. You can disconnect it at the l.h. side by removing the e-clip carefully so as to not lose it. #2 Make sure the fast idle cam has plenty of clearance on the r.h. throttle body and back out a couple of turns the idle speed screw. This screw is at the top of the l.h. throttle body. #3 Back each throttle stop screw out and put a .002" feeler gauge in between the screw and stop on the l.h. throttle body. Turn the screw in til the feeler gauge will stay in place. Install another .002" feeler gauge on the r.h. throttle body using the same procedure. With these gauges in place adjust the linkage to slip into the l.h. throttle body. #4 Start the bike and allow it to reach operating temp. Then adjust the idle speed screw to desired idle speed. #5 Then adjust the t.p.s. voltage. You are on your own as far as the voltage you want there! Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 As to the oil seep, look at this thread. Sealing the surface and replacing the O-ring on the phase sensor did not completely seal my leak as the sensor was leaking internally through the wire connection. The JB Weld has stopped this entirely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimeister Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 As to the oil seep, look at this thread. Sealing the surface and replacing the O-ring on the phase sensor did not completely seal my leak as the sensor was leaking internally through the wire connection. The JB Weld has stopped this entirely. Hi if you find it wassn't the crank phase sensor, another leak point is the connection between the oil cooler hose and the cooler. These afre sealed with Dowty washers which do occasionally fail, very cheap and easy to replace.Incidentally my experience is that the location of the oil is no guide to the leak area, ther are some strange vortices set up when the bike is in motion and when my oil sender leaked (yet another leak point!) it was all over the right side of the engine. Weird eh? Cheers Guzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abouc Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I've got oil seepage in the same spot. When I tried to remove the sensor there was quite a lot of resistance. Hesitant to break something off, I just screwed it back in place without fixing the leak. How much force is typically required to remove this sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 It's also been very common for timing cover gasket to let go in that place. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I've got oil seepage in the same spot. When I tried to remove the sensor there was quite a lot of resistance. Hesitant to break something off, I just screwed it back in place without fixing the leak. How much force is typically required to remove this sensor? it could have swelled a little, its a cylinder shape so if you pull straight up it will come out. don't pull on wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormsedge Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 As to the oil seep, look at this thread. Sealing the surface and replacing the O-ring on the phase sensor did not completely seal my leak as the sensor was leaking internally through the wire connection. The JB Weld has stopped this entirely. I drenched mine in green Loctite as an alternative to JB Weld...so far so good. Interesting thread concerning the gasket thickness and air gap...may have to look at that myself. k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velf 2003 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 My sensor (the one on the left side of the engine, that is...) after some 50k, has gone dripping aswell. I fixed it with some new 'gasket-out-of-the-tube. Worked wonders for me. But then again, all Guzzi`s have different characters... Good luck. Velf2003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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