Oil Leaking From Right Side

[abouc]

About 1,000 miles ago (1.5 weeks), I noticed that there was a small amount of oil running down the right side of the engine. It's about equal to what always runs down the left side from the TPS. A few days of commuting later, the small amount has become enough to being collecting on the oil pan fins. None is making it to the floor, but I'm getting concerned.

 

While replacing a throttle body boot (tank off), I looked at things and it appears it could be coming from the head gasket towards the center of the engine. Non oil is on the cylinder fins or the bottom of the head. All the oil lines seem intact. It's just running down the black paint of the casing.

 

Does this sound like something any of you have encountered?

 

There's info on the valve adjustment tutorial I downloaded from here about torquing head bolts. maybe this is something that needs to be done periodically?

 

The bike has 28,500 miles. Valves last adjusted in August at 25,000 miles.

 

Thanks.

[gstallons]

Do you have access to dye/UV light to find the leak? If not , check with the shop that works on your vehicle to se if they can help. You WILL find the leak with this stuff!!!

[abouc]

Do you have access to dye/UV light to find the leak? If not , check with the shop that works on your vehicle to se if they can help. You WILL find the leak with this stuff!!!

 

I don't a dye/UV light, but will check with the local auto parts store. Looks like a cool tool.

 

Presently, I'm going through the head torquing technique outlined in the tutorial I found here. Fingers crossed, this will stop the leak. If it doesn't, I'll pick up one of those lights. I assume, you have to put the dye in and run the bike for a while, then look for where the light detects it.

 

Unfortunately, the nearest competent Guzzi shop is 2 hours away. There's one 5 minutes from my office, but the last time I took the bike there for service, bad things happened.

[gstallons]

Read my post again. Check with your AUTOMOTIVE garage to see if they have this device or if they know a shop that has it.

The kit is less than $100 but you will probably never use it again......

[fotoguzzi]

are you loosing oil on the dip stick? my motor gets covered w/oil mist but never really goes down in level. I say just ride it!

I did the re torq heads routine but it looks like mine comes from the timing cover gasket.. or maybe I need new base gaskets?

 

but when you say "It's about equal to what always runs down the left side from the TPS." I think you mean the cam sensor.. the tps is in the throttle body..

[abouc]

are you loosing oil on the dip stick? my motor gets covered w/oil mist but never really goes down in level. I say just ride it!

I did the re torq heads routine but it looks like mine comes from the timing cover gasket.. or maybe I need new base gaskets?

 

but when you say "It's about equal to what always runs down the left side from the TPS." I think you mean the cam sensor.. the tps is in the throttle body..

 

I got my initials mixed up. Yes, what I meant to say was r.p.m. and T.D.C. sensor (as labeled by the shop manual). Since the last oil change about 3,000 miles ago, I have lost a small amount of oil on the dipstick. It was still well within the safe range. It's mostly just messy and unsightly.

 

After re-torquing the heads and degreasing the whole right side of the engine I went for a 30 mile ride. Lots of new oil is present on the right side. The majority is located where the timing cover gasket is, like fotoguzzi.

 

Here are some photos.

 

Left Side (not cleaned for a few weeks)

 

Right Side (cleaned just before most recent ride)

 

Maybe I need a timing cover gasket. Can that be done without removing the engine?

[Trevini]

Looks like timing cover gasket to me. I did mine with engine in place. A bit fiddly, but can be done. Be sure to change the timing cover oil seal while you've got it off too and be very careful not to damage the seal when replacing the cover.

[yamalama]

Looks like timing cover gasket to me. I did mine with engine in place. A bit fiddly, but can be done. Be sure to change the timing cover oil seal while you've got it off too and be very careful not to damage the seal when replacing the cover.

 

Could you please elaborate on the procedure?

Mine is weeping in exactly the same manner @ 23000 km's.

[Trevini]

Fairly straight forward. Tank off. Drop the oil cooler ( you can leave the hoses connected) to allow access to the alternator cover, remove cover, stator and coils. I supported the ebgine under the sump, but it may not be necessary. Slacken the bolts on the engine mounting brackets at the frame end to allow movement/clearance and remove bolts from timing cover end. Unbolt cover. Reassembly is the reverse procedure, it's all reasonably self explanatory. If you're a little nervous about being able to remember how to reassemble, take lots of photos and make notes. They really are easy engines to work on.

 

It's worth mentioning that there are two different types of gaskets used depending on age of the bike. I don't know if they're interchangable (I would think so), but worth asking the question to be sure.

[belfastguzzi]

Any time this type of question arises, the first thought is that it's the timing cover gasket leak.

The description in the text didn't quite seem like, but the pictures posted certainly do look like that's what it is.

 

While a new gasket is the correct type of repair, I'd still recommend the simple application of sealant as an alternative and effective repair.

 

It was mentioned back in this thread and various others since: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2024&st=0

 

In this picture, the blue shows where the sealant is applied, after careful cleaning. I then covered it with black silicone and after some road miles, it becomes fairly invisible.

 

[Baldini]

Mine had a weep from timing cover gasket, just below engine mount bolt. Tightening timing cover screws cured it...check the simple solution first.

[gstallons]

The job loks easy. Remove the oil cooler, hoses, voltage regulator,horns & brackets. Front engine mount bolts, etc... I don't know what is needed (8mm LONG threaded bolt?) to remove the alternator rotor. ALL the hex head capscrews holding the cover on then remove. If you have access to Hylomar Sealant or any other gasket sealant, NO silicone sealer apply a very spartan amount to both sides of gasket upon reassembly. Let set an hour and retorque the screws. When you install the alternator rotor make sure it is torqued properly. You don't want this to come loo$e!

p.s. Remove all of the old gasket material from the cover and engine block.

[yamalama]

Thanks for the technical advice, gentlemen.

[guido]

There is a problem on the side towards the top of the timing cover. It is most likely caused by hot oil being flung off the chain and hitting that particular spot repeatedly.

Tightening does not usually help, once the process has started, and a new gasket might not last much longer than the original.

 

The best solution is to use a silicone sealer that will withstand oils. It should be applied to dry/clean surfaces and in moderation. That has, so far, proved durable on mine. But choose a good quality product, while many might do, I have had good experiences with a product from Victor Reinz called REINSOZIL www.reinz.com/datasheet. Withstands water, oil and petrol.

[belfastguzzi]

There is a problem on the side towards the top of the timing cover. It is most likely caused by hot oil being flung off the chain and hitting that particular spot repeatedly.

Tightening does not usually help, once the process has started, and a new gasket might not last much longer than the original.

 

The best solution is to use a silicone sealer that will withstand oils. It should be applied to dry/clean surfaces and in moderation. That has, so far, proved durable on mine. But choose a good quality product, while many might do, I have had good experiences with a product from Victor Reinz called REINSOZIL www.reinz.com/datasheet. Withstands water, oil and petrol.

 

Interesting. I wonder if, like the pawl spring problem, there have been cases of the timing cover gasket failing again, after replacement?

 

On mine, bits of the gasket became dislodged. How? I don't know. Maybe it was torn from the beginning, when assembled at the factory? Maybe it was due to the thick black paint of that period that often got overpainted onto joint surfaces, or the timing chain fling has an effect, or the stress of the engine hanger has a tearing effect, or...?

 

Anyway, the gasket was damaged and that's where the oil came through the joint, eventually becoming a flow rather than a mist. The damaged gasket piece started working its way out.

In this location, external application of sealant fixed it. Such a remedy will not work in a location where there is more stress and movement. When the timing chest cracked, sealant sort-of worked as a temporary repair to get me home from Scotland, but all subsequent attempts to make a permanent repair with epoxy failed, because the crack happens at the weak point of the plate where it is bolted to the block and stressed by the engine hanger mount. It's impossible to close a crack and stop hot oil getting through a hairline when there is multiple stress at the fault (unless it's welded).

However at a straightforward screwed-up joint section, there isn't a big problem.