thevoodoochild Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Start with removing the tank. I noticed no one had answered this so... 1. unfasten the bolt at the rear of the tank and lift it up slightly 2. On the 2001 the fuel tap/petcock is operated by a solenoid (electric switch) on the left side: it should have wires coming out of it. You should not need to turn it off but it is a common mod to change this for a manual tap: if you can't find a way to turn the tap off, you don't need to! So you can pull the pipe off it safely. 3. Disconnect the fuel tap wires at its connector under the tank - you may need to lift the rear of the tank slightly to get at it. 4. Also disconnect the fuel level sensor connector on the same side, nearby. 5. On the right side, you will also need to remove the fuel return pipe from the return valve (on the opposite side to the fuel tap). A little fuel will escape but should soon stop. 6. After removing this the tank will now be free for you to lift it up and you can see the spine of the frame in all its glory! Don't think I've forgotten anything... Buena Suerte Andy thanks for all the tips....illl try it this weekend...... just came back from the dealer, i bought a oil radiator bracket which was broken, 4 exhaust nuts because mine are rusty and bought a new breather hose and new clamps......is there a good way to wash away all the oil from engine that's been dripping to make sure the breather hose was the source of my leak?? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Hot soapy water and a blower to air every thing dry after! Do not tell your girl friend it is why her hair dryer does not work anymore . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 You can use baby powder or athletes foot spray powder on the areas suspected of leaking,run the bike and get her up to temp,better yet ,run it on the road for a while and the leaks should reveal themselves through the powder. Don't touch the exhaust nuts until you spray them with a penetrant like PB Blaster.Let it sit overnight,heat them up and then try to loosen.Be careful as you dont want to damage the stud going into the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevoodoochild Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Hot soapy water and a blower to air every thing dry after! Do not tell your girl friend it is why her hair dryer does not work anymore . . . thanks man ill do this as soon as i get the parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevoodoochild Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 You can use baby powder or athletes foot spray powder on the areas suspected of leaking,run the bike and get her up to temp,better yet ,run it on the road for a while and the leaks should reveal themselves through the powder. Don't touch the exhaust nuts until you spray them with a penetrant like PB Blaster.Let it sit overnight,heat them up and then try to loosen.Be careful as you dont want to damage the stud going into the head. great tip, i was actually gonna ask how to go about it and u totally saved me...i got not mechanical experience but im handy and i learn fast...thank u for the reply!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 It's the first time I have seen the sticking gear shift mentioned on here, mine sticks in the down position occasionally and the only way to release it is to let the clutch out a bit and it springs back up, it is not a broken selector spring cos it would be stuck in gear, we all know this, and it's not something simple like seized shifter mechanism or the lever fouling the side plate, it's not been enough of an issue for me to do anything about it but I would like to know what causes it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevoodoochild Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 It's the first time I have seen the sticking gear shift mentioned on here, mine sticks in the down position occasionally and the only way to release it is to let the clutch out a bit and it springs back up, it is not a broken selector spring cos it would be stuck in gear, we all know this, and it's not something simple like seized shifter mechanism or the lever fouling the side plate, it's not been enough of an issue for me to do anything about it but I would like to know what causes it. same problem....the clutch releases it, the dealer told me that i can just be lack of grease on the linkage and that its a very common thing to see on these bikes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 The pawl arms were mis-sized from the factory and caused the spring to break,they were corrected with an improved one from the factory.If yours hasn't been replaced yet it could be the cause. Belfastguzzi has been our sacrificial lamb and has give much blood,sweat and tears for the cause,here is his invaluable thread pertaining to spring and arm for those new and old to V11's,. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Start with removing the tank. I noticed no one had answered this so... 1. unfasten the bolt at the rear of the tank and lift it up slightly 2. On the 2001 the fuel tap/petcock is operated by a solenoid (electric switch) on the left side: it should have wires coming out of it. You should not need to turn it off but it is a common mod to change this for a manual tap: if you can't find a way to turn the tap off, you don't need to! So you can pull the pipe off it safely. 3. Disconnect the fuel tap wires at its connector under the tank - you may need to lift the rear of the tank slightly to get at it. 4. Also disconnect the fuel level sensor connector on the same side, nearby. 5. On the right side, you will also need to remove the fuel return pipe from the return valve (on the opposite side to the fuel tap). A little fuel will escape but should soon stop. 6. After removing this the tank will now be free for you to lift it up and you can see the spine of the frame in all its glory! Don't think I've forgotten anything... Buena Suerte Andy thanks for all the tips....illl try it this weekend...... just came back from the dealer, i bought a oil radiator bracket which was broken, 4 exhaust nuts because mine are rusty and bought a new breather hose and new clamps......is there a good way to wash away all the oil from engine that's been dripping to make sure the breather hose was the source of my leak?? thanks 3M makes the best engine degreaser of all time Part # 08899 . It is available at NAPA and other parts stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevoodoochild Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 The pawl arms were mis-sized from the factory and caused the spring to break,they were corrected with an improved one from the factory.If yours hasn't been replaced yet it could be the cause. Belfastguzzi has been our sacrificial lamb and has give much blood,sweat and tears for the cause,here is his invaluable thread pertaining to spring and arm for those new and old to V11's,. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 is it one of the recalls that Moto Guzzi made?? i had the dealer look for the history on mine to see if they had been done... ill do some reading on that thread but i dont think that my abilities can get me that far... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 The pawl arms were mis-sized from the factory and caused the spring to break,they were corrected with an improved one from the factory.If yours hasn't been replaced yet it could be the cause. Belfastguzzi has been our sacrificial lamb and has give much blood,sweat and tears for the cause,here is his invaluable thread pertaining to spring and arm for those new and old to V11's,. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 is it one of the recalls that Moto Guzzi made?? i had the dealer look for the history on mine to see if they had been done... ill do some reading on that thread but i dont think that my abilities can get me that far... Yours is an 01 - it seems the early once might not have such a problem as 02 onwards. I've never had the problem. Carry a spare spring under the seat if you go far from home! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraeV11 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Start with removing the tank. I noticed no one had answered this so... 1. unfasten the bolt at the rear of the tank and lift it up slightly 2. On the 2001 the fuel tap/petcock is operated by a solenoid (electric switch) on the left side: it should have wires coming out of it. You should not need to turn it off but it is a common mod to change this for a manual tap: if you can't find a way to turn the tap off, you don't need to! So you can pull the pipe off it safely. 3. Disconnect the fuel tap wires at its connector under the tank - you may need to lift the rear of the tank slightly to get at it. 4. Also disconnect the fuel level sensor connector on the same side, nearby. 5. On the right side, you will also need to remove the fuel return pipe from the return valve (on the opposite side to the fuel tap). A little fuel will escape but should soon stop. 6. After removing this the tank will now be free for you to lift it up and you can see the spine of the frame in all its glory! Don't think I've forgotten anything... Buena Suerte Andy Yeah you forgot the bucket in case you cock it up. Nothing worse than petrol peeing all over the garage with nothing to catch it in. Also, be careful how you set the tank down once you get it off - some expanded polystyrene will protect those taps. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thevoodoochild Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 Start with removing the tank. I noticed no one had answered this so... 1. unfasten the bolt at the rear of the tank and lift it up slightly 2. On the 2001 the fuel tap/petcock is operated by a solenoid (electric switch) on the left side: it should have wires coming out of it. You should not need to turn it off but it is a common mod to change this for a manual tap: if you can't find a way to turn the tap off, you don't need to! So you can pull the pipe off it safely. 3. Disconnect the fuel tap wires at its connector under the tank - you may need to lift the rear of the tank slightly to get at it. 4. Also disconnect the fuel level sensor connector on the same side, nearby. 5. On the right side, you will also need to remove the fuel return pipe from the return valve (on the opposite side to the fuel tap). A little fuel will escape but should soon stop. 6. After removing this the tank will now be free for you to lift it up and you can see the spine of the frame in all its glory! Don't think I've forgotten anything... Buena Suerte Andy Yeah you forgot the bucket in case you cock it up. Nothing worse than petrol peeing all over the garage with nothing to catch it in. Also, be careful how you set the tank down once you get it off - some expanded polystyrene will protect those taps. Cheers. couldn't agree more ill keep a few towels and a bucket handy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 The pawl arms were mis-sized from the factory and caused the spring to break,they were corrected with an improved one from the factory.If yours hasn't been replaced yet it could be the cause. Belfastguzzi has been our sacrificial lamb and has give much blood,sweat and tears for the cause,here is his invaluable thread pertaining to spring and arm for those new and old to V11's,. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 The selector spring would not cause this problem, the spring is either broken or it is'nt, mine is not broken as the box works fine most of the time but occasionally the lever will stick down the same as the thread starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Your problem is probably the shifter pivot bolt. Loosen the 13mm jam nut on the inside of the frame. Then turn the bolt (socket head capscrew) to the left or right. If the shift lever moves with the screw , the bolt and lever are sticking together.Remove the bolt . Replace it with stainless if you have acces to stainless steel fasteners. If not, sand the rust off and grease it upon reasemnly. I let my bike set for 3 weeks waitng on a return spring to find this was my problem . Don't do the same thing as I did . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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