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danged porthole


LowRyter

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I've been servicing my Sport after 2500 mile r/t to the Spine Frame (not a) Rally.  Today I decided to change the oil + filter.  I got the proper tool to drop the porthole to install the filter.

 

after installing the filter, I could not get the porthole plug back in.  It cross threaded every time I tried to reinstall it.  Finally I dropped the pan.  I did get it back on.  It doesn't appear to be leaking.  Man, it took a lot of time. 

 

Don't think I'll do this again.

 

anyway, new fluids and valve adjustment (both intakes were a little loose).

 

Done, but my 2 hours job turned into an all day affair.

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My old Uncle who was a plumber taught me how to start a large thread like that.

you turn it slowly backwards until you feel it click off the end of the thread, then turn it forward.

 

I think you will find most owners prefer to drop the sump, that way you can give it a good clean out and add a hose clamp to prevent the filter working loose.

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LR, you're not the only one who couldn't get that manhole cover screwed in without removing the oil pan.  I too had to drop the pan to get the cover screwed in correctly a few years back.

 

I find dropping the pan is a PITA, especially when I had to do it over again because I didn't use a new gasket.  If you get a little gasket leakage be very careful about adding a little more torque to the screws in that area.  I wasn't and now I own a nice M6 helicoil kit.   :blush:

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I have only once dropped the pan on the wifes V11. Wanted to look at her bottom end.

I understand the logic to dropping the pan but It is so much easier to me to just use the manhole. I don't have an issue with putting it back on and I use quality filters which don't come loose.

Feel free to drop the pan, nothing wrong with it except extra work.

If I don't need to actually SEE the bottom end I will keep doing it the manhole way.

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The oil filter topic has been covered at great length.

A quality filter will have plenty of thread where it screws on. It will also have a good gasket that compresses but is elastic and pushes back. If such a filter is properly tightened the threads will hold it steady and the gasket will keep it tensioned (almost like a lock washer) and it will not come loose.

If a filter comes loose either it lacked sufficient threads, the gasket hardened, it was not properly tightened, or some combination of the three.

 

There was a classic case quite a few years ago where a filter maker has reduced the thickness of the base plate and thus the number of threads that held the filter on. Those filters had a bad habit of coming off under hard use (high rpm, thus high oil pressure). It was a bit of a fiasco, but I was stunned at the time that so many people where using such a cheap filter on their pride and joy. Why would someone worry about saving a couple dollars on such a crucial part is beyond me, but as evidenced by the threads on this site on the very subject there are many amoung us who would do the same.

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Somehow dropping the pan as part of scheduled maintenance and using a hose clamp just to be sure doesn't seem too much pain to me. I clean the gauze while I'm at it.

Same logic applies, whatever the quality of the filter, I can't see why'd so many people would take the chance of the filter coming loose on their pride and joy. So I use UFI filters and a hose clamp.

I also wear two condoms, to be sure, to be sure.

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The oil filter topic has been covered at great length.

A quality filter will have plenty of thread where it screws on. It will also have a good gasket that compresses but is elastic and pushes back. If such a filter is properly tightened the threads will hold it steady and the gasket will keep it tensioned (almost like a lock washer) and it will not come loose.

If a filter comes loose either it lacked sufficient threads, the gasket hardened, it was not properly tightened, or some combination of the three.

 

There was a classic case quite a few years ago where a filter maker has reduced the thickness of the base plate and thus the number of threads that held the filter on. Those filters had a bad habit of coming off under hard use (high rpm, thus high oil pressure). It was a bit of a fiasco, but I was stunned at the time that so many people where using such a cheap filter on their pride and joy. Why would someone worry about saving a couple dollars on such a crucial part is beyond me, but as evidenced by the threads on this site on the very subject there are many amoung us who would do the same.

OK and Thanks,  but is the UFI a good one? what is the best filter ? I'm still using the hose clamp.

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I have used UFI filters, and I have cut one apart to see how it was made. It seemed to be made pretty well but that was a while ago. If you want to know how good a filter is simply cut a new one apart and look at it.

I do not normally use UFI filters, I use WIX filters. But they are harder to get. Please, I am not telling anyone else what filters to use, I only mention it because it seems to be part of the question.

Use whichever filter you think is the best. But a well made filter properly installed will not come loose.

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There is a great thread (back there, somewhere) where one member did some extensive testing on gasket deformation versus the tightening procedure. I think it was Ryland3210 and the conclusions were interesting. From what I recall, the best result was obtained (using a "quality" filter) by tightening one-and-one-eighth turn after gasket contact. It is tighter than I would ordinarily turn a filter up "by feel" but has stood the test of time.

 

+1 here on the WIX.

 

That and not letting your oil level fall even a half liter low are good bearing medicine!

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That and not letting your oil level fall even a half liter low are good bearing medicine!

As Docc says.

I have a pressure gauge on my V11, let the oil get into the bottom 3rd of the marks on the stick and even under mild acceleration the pressure will drop right to zero.

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