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Coil/instrument panel mounts


Guest Brent

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When I had my gas tank off tonight, I poked around to see if anything had come loose, or cracked, etc. Not only did I find that the bolts holding the fuel filter had come completely loose (lost one nut), but I also found that my coils (coil assembly?) had detached from its mount.

 

This mount appears to be the same type used by the instrument panel, i.e., brass plates to which the assembly is GLUED. My instrument panel has detached twice, and now my coils. I've temporarily wired the coils to the frame, running a wire through holes in the bracket, then over the top frame. Maybe I'll have the dealer do something like this as a safety measure when I have them re-attach the coils...and the instrument panel...and...never mind. :angry:

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It's that olive oil based glue. :rasta:

 

Seriously, i remember a thread on this. Something about using, er, Bavarian parts.

Yep,

 

Go to your Guzzi with hanging tits :-) dealer to have them match up the coil insulators (the length of the insulator is important to keep the coils from hitting the frame). The Guzzi with hanging tits :-) insulators have studs and you will need to buy some 6mm. nuts to secure them.

 

Have fun,

Mike

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:lol: ....I was just going to post about this the other night, but after fixing it decided to let it lie. Buy hey... lookee this, someone started the thread for me :D

 

Seriously, I was about to redo the crimps on the ends of my 4 plug-wires that I had hastily done a few weeks ago just for testing, and noticed my coils hanging from their harnesses as well <_>

 

This actually wasn't much of a surprise after hearing numerous accounts of this happening to others. So out I went for an assortment of epoxies and super-glues to see which would work well to repair them.

 

Oh and BTW, before we get to my gluing experience, let me just say that:

 

1) Yes the MG isolators are junk

2) They broke entirely because I was too rough with them :rolleyes:

 

...I know exactly why mine broke, and suspected it might happen. When I reinstalled mine after putting the new dual-output coils in some weeks back, I tightened down the nuts and had no real way to hold the rubber bushing from twisting. So when they were finally all tightened down, there was now also a twisting/sheer force on the brass plate and rubber bushing, along with it's normal forces. So when I saw them detached the other day, I just shrugged and thought... ah well, no surprise :unsure:

 

 

So, anyway, I went down to my local Orchard Supply, and bought several high-temp/high-stress epoxies for plastics, rubber, etc.... and although some worked OK, I so far have found that the new "flexible" rubber super-glue that is out seems to work best.

 

Now, I have no long-term vibratory :P experience to relate, so they may just fall right off next week <_ .... but so far that glue is... how do the kids now-a-days say... hella tough src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_cool.png" alt="B)">

 

 

BTW, beyond just being vibration dampers for the coils, do these provide any pertinent electrical isolation for the coils? The reason I ask is that it would be really easy to just get a chunk of rubber, drill a hole through it, and bolt through the mount, rubber, coil-plate. It would never fall off, and still provide for some vibration damping.... or would this create an electrical ground problem?

 

If the glue fails, I'll go down to the BMW place...

 

al

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...indeed very nice, however no one has yet actually answered my question about the function of the isolation mounts ;)

 

 

BTW, beyond just being vibration dampers for the coils, do these provide any pertinent electrical isolation for the coils? The reason I ask is that it would be really easy to just get a chunk of rubber, drill a hole through it, and bolt through the mount, rubber, coil-plate. It would never fall off, and still provide for some vibration damping.... or would this create an electrical ground problem?

 

 

Anyone? ....anyone? :P

 

al

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Don't have an answer for you, Al. But now you've got me wondering if maybe I've created an electrical grounding issue by wiring the coils to the frame... :doh:

 

Guess I'll be taking my tank off again to glue the coils with the superglue you mentioned. Can you get me the name of that glue, so I can be sure that I buy the same one?

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It's "Super Glue" brand, looks just like a standard tube of SG, but one of their new specialty ones in the yellow packaging. This one is called "Flex" Super Glue, and is hyped as having rubber added to the mix for flexibility. It's in a mustard yellow package/card I believe.

 

I'll double check when I get out the garage.

 

Keep in mind I don't have any idea if it will last though.... but I pulled and twisted on it like heck, and it didn't let go. So hopefully that's a good sign :huh2:

 

al

 

 

P.S.

 

Nylon lock-nuts and "threadlocker blue" are your friends on bikes like these... or anything else that vibrates :thumbsup: Where possible, replace any OEM nuts(that aren't high stress spec) with stainless nylon lock nuts, and eslewhere loctite everything else, and you'll never have any issues with lost nuts and bolts again :bike:

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BTW, beyond just being vibration dampers for the coils, do these provide any pertinent electrical isolation for the coils? The reason I ask is that it would be really easy to just get a chunk of rubber, drill a hole through it, and bolt through the mount, rubber, coil-plate. It would never fall off, and still provide for some vibration damping.... or would this create an electrical ground problem?

 

Al,

 

The insulators are for vibration only. The coils could short out internally if subjected to heavy vibrations. :( The rubber insulators that I used for replacing the broken coil ones were for a battery box on an older hanging tit model. Battery plates have also been known to separate with vibrations also. Mainly a Harley problem though. :bbblll:

 

Mike

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