Paradiso Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hi, the guidance on the thread about Tps and balancing is comprehensive, but there's one part I am seeking clarification on. When balancing the throttle bodies and using the left idle scew to set the Tps to 0.521 volts, should the bike be running or not? Will it make any difference either way? Thanks, Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Igniton on but not running. Use 521mv as a reference for idle speed, mine isnt right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Thanks. Is this adjustment purely for tick-over speed? It is good at the moment. Adjusted R/H TPS a couple of months ago and it did improve running. Just got a manometer so wanted to check balance too in hope of smoothing out some vibes. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Basically yes, If youre happy with the way it runs then i would jump into the TB balance. Start with valve lash then air bleed screws then 1800-2500 rpm then back to air bleeds at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Hi, the guidance on the thread about Tps and balancing is comprehensive, but there's one part I am seeking clarification on. When balancing the throttle bodies and using the left idle scew to set the Tps to 0.521 volts, should the bike be running or not? Will it make any difference either way? Thanks, Simon 150mv key on,not running. 465-525 mv at idle varies from bike to bike,what ever makes your bike run smoother,really a balance of TPS,air bleed screws,idle,TB balance ,not EXACTLY the same on every bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 As Mznyc says The 150 mV with butterfly fully closed ensures that the TPS slider is not jambed at the end of travel Adjusting the idle screw to get 460 to 520 mV is just to give you a starting point for idle. My V11 is getting up there in miles so I adjust the LH throttle stop to get the idle point then wind in the RH stop by the same amount, this gives it a definite stop for both butterflys at idle otherwise it idles at a different speed each time I blip the throttle. To find the point where the idle screw is just touching the butterfly arm I use a strip of paper as a feeler gauge Proceedure Back off both idle screws till they are just making contact but not opening throttle Open air bleeds 1 turn Rotate TPS to get 150 mV ±5 Wind in LH throttle stop to get 460 mV then wind in RH stop by the same No of flats. Connect balance manometer Start bike Set Idle revs by moving both idle screws by equal amount Set idle balance using air bleeds Rev up and set balance at high revs using white knob on linkage On my EV which still has fairly tight linkages I have skipped the 460 mV step and just set the fast idle lever to give me the idle speed I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks for this guys! I just brought home a digital differential pressure gauge from work (we make laboratory instruments) and I'm excited to give this a try. I'm fairly certain that my bike has never had its valves adjusted or been re-balanced from factory settings. Been reading a lot of the TPS/valve lash/balancing posts, but it seems there is no one single comprehensive guide that lays out all the needed steps (with pics!). If I knew what the hell I was doing I'd make a video instructional myself! Anybody want to come to the Sonoran Desert, drink a bunch of beer, tune up a virgin V11 and go for a mountain tour? (not necessarily in that order!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 The most comprehensive TPS guide is the one listed in the FAQ sub-forum. Just don't expect to get it right on the first try... Word to the wise: Blast some carb cleaner into your throttle bodies with the airbox tubes disconnected to clean out all the old gas residue, before setting the 150mv. Also, completely disconnect your cold start cable (two screws). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks man! Throttle bodies are already cleaned up good from when I first got the bike and ditched the airbox. Good tip on the cold start cable linkage removal. I'll check out that FAQ guide again too. I think my biggest worry at this point, is setting up the valve lash correctly....everything else is just airflow and electronics, both of which I deal with every single day on the job. Either way, it sounds like fun and I am pretty sure there is some serious room for improvement, as this motor has a hell ofa vibration around 3300 and some backfiring on launch after a steady run....although some of that could be fuel map issues since I added the big KN pods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Anybody want to come to the Sonoran Desert, drink a bunch of beer, tune up a virgin V11 and go for a mountain tour? (not necessarily in that order!) Yes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Anybody want to come to the Sonoran Desert, drink a bunch of beer, tune up a virgin V11 and go for a mountain tour? (not necessarily in that order!) Yes. I'll split Airfare with you, shelter, food, spirits, and a bike to ride! I may even have 3 bikes to choose from soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Anybody want to come to the Sonoran Desert, drink a bunch of beer, tune up a virgin V11 and go for a mountain tour? (not necessarily in that order!) Yes. I'll split Airfare with you, shelter, food, spirits, and a bike to ride! I may even have 3 bikes to choose from soon! Haha! That's a sweet deal! Is it good for ten years to life? It could take me a few months to get there since I'll be darned busy digging up every track and burning every bridge between here and Albuquerque. Seriously, I'm thinking we can walk you through a valve adjustment and tune-up. You will be absolutely jazzed how much better you can make her run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Sounds good Docc, yup, invite expires only after you or I do! I will start a new thread this weekend that will take us through start to finish! I am looking forward to putting some more miles on this jewel, but #1, I want to make sure I am not hurting the motor by running it out of tune (or too tight valves etc.), and #2, I want to keep what's left of my teeth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 FWIW I wrote up my valve adjust method here. It's pretty straightforward and fairly easy to do. Hope this helps, Tom http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17247&page=2&hl=intake&do=findComment&comment=191378 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chamberlin Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Excellent! Thank you Tom, I will start there and work my way through! Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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