Help...shifting, clutch, and stalling in gear issues

[nobleswood]

I'm sure experienced Guzzista's can bleed the clutch without removing the rear wheel.

 

However, I pull the wheel & still find it to be awkward. While you're there you can bleed & clean the rear brake assembly as it's often neglected.

[bobbysworld86]

I'm sure experienced Guzzista's can bleed the clutch without removing the rear wheel.

However, I pull the wheel & still find it to be awkward. While you're there you can bleed & clean the rear brake assembly as it's often neglected.

I'm loving all of this info, you guys are fantastic!

[Antiquar]

I'm sure experienced Guzzista's can bleed the clutch without removing the rear wheel.

 

However, I pull the wheel & still find it to be awkward. While you're there you can bleed & clean the rear brake assembly as it's often neglected.

I don't think the rear wheel really obstructs the slave cylinder. If anything removing the rear shock reservoir would ease bleeding the clutch; though you can definitely do the job without removing anything.

 

Good point on the brake, however, and removing the rear wheel would also making greasing the driveshaft a bit easier.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes, good idea to do the driveshaft at the mileage I doubt it's ever been done, Luigi is famous for being stingy with the grease, The easiest way to do that IMHO is remove it so to get at the front universal. Careful putting it back so the pinch bolt doesn't strip itself on the gearbox shaft.

There should be a paint mark on the splines, that has to be lined up when put back.

 

I believe I use Dot 3 brake fluid, whatever brand comes to hand, Dot 4 may be better ?????

 

By the end of all that you will have learnt a few more curse words but can bask in the glory of a job well done.

[Lucky Phil]

 

I think I understand the symptoms better now - you may have water in the clutch fluid. This would give you normal clutch action when cold, then it could start to boil when it gets hot - causing air bubbles and a lack of pressure. New fluid is definitely job #1. Check the fileshare section of this forum for links to download manuals.

You know, come to think of it...I think I did actually hear boiling when I tried to start her up after the struggling startups yesterday. Thank you Scud!

 

You wont hear any clutch fluid boiling and it wont happen anyway, not with the arrangement a guzzi has. Did you check the fluid quantity? if its overfull the fluid has nowhere to expand to when the engine and OAT warms up. Its a long shot but the first thing to check

 

Ciao

[nobleswood]

When I bought my 2004 Sport with 6000 miles, Curtis @ Harpers had already been into the driveshaft & bevel box to lube what was missed at the factory.

 

So probaly a good idea.

[fotoguzzi]

note, when you grease the middle zirk on the DS you'll want the axle in (if rear wheel off) or the shaft will expand lengthwise and you won't get the axle lined up until you remove the zirk fitting a let some grease out..

[bobbysworld86]

Ok, so it's been awhile, but I haven't had a whole lot of time to tear into her. This is the news today....Bled/flushed the clutch, fluid level is good, and even got the notch on the tie rod (of the shift linkage) back to the factory position where it lined up with the gap. Also tried adjusting the lever in both spots (all the way to 6 and tightening the pin in and out). Moving the pin seemed to make it better, as in the bike being able to stay in gear and on without dying, but only with a little momentum. So I drove down the street and back, while pulling the clutch lever ever so often, and still doesn't disengage the clutch. I was able to shift up to 2nd, jerky, and shift back down to 1st, also jerky, 'cause the clutch still wasn't doing anything. I would faintly get the clutch chatter while adjusting the pin on the lever, but not as "loud" as it usually was. We're thinking it has to be a pressure issue somewhere. After first bleeding the line, we got a few little chunks out, then clean fluid. We're stumped...

 

I was also able to bleed/flush the fluid with everything still mounted, yay tiny hands haha.

[bobbysworld86]

Bump

[docc]

This reminds me of when my Sport broke the spring inside its master cylinder.

 

Rebuild was straightforward.

 

Does it seem to have excessive lever travel?

[bobbysworld86]

This reminds me of when my Sport broke the spring inside its master cylinder.

 

Rebuild was straightforward.

 

Does it seem to have excessive lever travel?

As in more lever travel than it should while squeezing and releasing? Not really, seems normal.

[Chuck]

 

 

After first bleeding the line, we got a few little chunks out

Hmmm, that ain't rat.. black chunks?

[bobbysworld86]

 

 

 

After first bleeding the line, we got a few little chunks out

Hmmm, that ain't rat.. black chunks?

Haha no, like an orange color.

[JBBenson]

I had a similar problem on the Aprilia: clutch was fine when cold, when warm wouldn't disengage.

 

Keep bleeding, there is old crappy fluid and/air/water in there preventing the clutch from disengaging. Run 1/2 a bottle through it, can't save it once its opened anyway.

 

Alternatively, the clutch line itself is expanding when you pull the lever, leading to the same result. 

[bobbysworld86]

I had a similar problem on the Aprilia: clutch was fine when cold, when warm wouldn't disengage.

 

Keep bleeding, there is old crappy fluid and/air/water in there preventing the clutch from disengaging. Run 1/2 a bottle through it, can't save it once its opened anyway.

 

Alternatively, the clutch line itself is expanding when you pull the lever, leading to the same result.

 

Interesting. Which way do you use to bleed? We used the clear tube with the loop and squeezing the lever idea.