What are your dyno run results?

[F344]

Moto Guzzi---------------------------

From: http://motoguzzi-us.com/bikes/v11naked/specs.html

Maximum power: 91 hp @7800 rpm

 

Ghezzi-Brian ------------------------

From: http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/techdata_stw.htm

"Engine: Moto Guzzi 1100 V-Twin 1064 cc ; Electronic Injection ; 87 HP at 7500 r.p.m. ; Torque 9 Kgm at 6250 r.p.m."

 

 

I was wondering what kind of power we are really putting out. Would many of you be able to post your dyno HP and configuration?

 

And for Al or any of the other San Francisco Bay Area Guzzi guys, where would I go around here to have my bike tested on a dyno?

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

[al_roethlisberger]

Oh you betcha.... lots

 

A quick search of "dyno" returns 10 results in the title only, so a more detailed search would provide more I'm sure: "dyno" forum search results

 

 

 

But, yeah... that "91hp" figure is, as with most marketing hooey, optimistic... and most importantly... measured at the *crank*, not rear wheel.

 

Most V11 Sport models are delivered with from 76-78rwhp(rear wheel hp) as stock. And since I believe the G&B actually uses an EV motor(which focuses on torque, not HP, as stock) this may be why their stock engine is also similarly rated.

 

Now, that being said, one can easily get into the low 80s with minimal tuning and modifications like an exhaust and/or airbox kit.

 

If one is more daring and starts to combine all the basics such as those mentioned above, but also including a new crossover, PCIII, and other add-on tweaks... the mid 80s start to come into play.

 

Then, if one really wants to get "wild" ... spend a lot of $$, and add pistons, cam, and similar... you can get 90-ish rwhp, and still have a civilized and reliable bike.

 

But once you start pushing much past 90rwhp on these bikes, you begin to get into the power/durability tradeoff.... where you start to trade long term(or at really high outputs, even short-term) reliability for power.

 

As I mentioned in another thread welcoming the new "Guzzi girl" when she asked a similar question... although someone may have certainly built a ~100hp 2V Guzzi motor, I've not seen one. And I would be very surprised if an honest to goodness 2V 100hp would:

 

1) Stay together very long in dayly street use

2) Be very much "fun" to ride more than 10 minutes

 

...but I could be wrong.

 

 

However, never-the-less, with all the members in this forum... and the budgets many seem to have... for all their efforts, "reasonable" modifications up to and including new pistons and cams seem to top out at the low 90rwhp range. I think the most we've seen documented may be 91 in fact.

 

With my current modifications, I maxed out at 86rwhp last year, but we ultimately tuned it back a bit to choose some efficiency over raw top power So I think that now, on a good day, I should have about 84rwhp. I forget my torque, but it's in the threads linked from the search above, and in my two "dual plug" threads.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...20&hl=dual+plug

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...30&hl=dual+plug

 

 

My actual post dual-plug dyno run is in the dual-plug FAQ:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2355

 

 

 

WRT a shop in the SF area... I can't recommend Hare Racing in Sunnyvale enough. They are a private shop, owner operated, and just great people.

 

http://www.hareracing.com/

 

They've mapped several of the Guzzis in the bay area now, and the more they get, the better they'll continue to get at servicing and mapping the bikes

 

So I would definitely give them a call. I think they're the best private shop in the area.

 

 

Good luck, and yes it will be interesting to see other's dyno runs, or at least the stats

 

al

[gthyni]

Dynotec is claiming 97/100/108 hp on crank:

http://www.dynotec.de/

 

 

with 4V engines they claim upto 132 (1200cc)

 

 

it is doable, but it will cost you $$$ (or rather lots of euros)

[robbiekb]

I just dropped my baby off for the last round of it's tweaks (and to get an oil leak fixed).

 

Once I get the bike back i'll get it tuned by Dave Green in Seattle and i'll post the dyno results here.

 

Mods i'm currently running:

PC111

Mistral Ti mufflers

K&N Pods

 

Final mods to go on:

FBF high compression pistons

Stucchi crossover

 

Al, do you have a list somewhere or in one of the threads that lists all of the mods that you did to your bike ? I'm kind of interested in the dual plug thing after iread an article in motorcylist.

[robbiekb]

OK i did some more detailed searching , maybe i won't bother with dual plugs after all

 

I will however call Mike Rich to see about some head work this winter. I'd heard his name a few times and was having a hard time tracking down contact information for him.

[al_roethlisberger]

I am very pleased with my dual-plug setup, although I can't really say why as there is no objective data to suggest it is really doing anything "good" for my bike at this point

 

...maybe it's just because I think it's neato, and was a fun challenge to get working ... and the "potential" benefits it provides

 

Here is the FAQ again: Forum Dual-Plug FAQ

 

It's posted on Guzzitech as well, but it's just a link to the same document.

 

 

Anyway, here is a link to Mike Rich:

 

http://www.cookedgoose.org/sponsors/richmotorsports.htm

 

 

WRT my engine mods, they are actually pretty "mild" so far:

 

- Emissions and vaccuum/vapor-recovery systems removed

- Mike Rich "Stage II" ported heads

- TiN coated valves

- Dual plugged heads

- Airbox removed, pod filters installed

- PCIIIusb

- Leo Vince exhausts

- Stucchi crossover

- Ceramic coated exhaust system

 

Coming...

 

- Mike Rich high compression pistons(~10:1 actual)

- Megacycle 620x9 cam

- Carillo connecting rods

- Ti pushrods with race valve springs for higher lift cam

 

And I think that will just about "do it". As I've always said, if I can get 90hp, I'll be satisfied.

 

 

And of course, somewhat related... although not a direct component of generating more power, I have swapped out my 2002 tank with it's associated external fuel-pump/regulator plumbing for a 2003 tank with the later model's in-tank system, including installing a "balance tube" to equalize fuel levels in both sides of the tank automatically. This change to the 2003 tank effectively eliminates the "vapor lock" issue, and really cleans up the under-tank area.

 

 

While I'm at it, ther non engine modifications are:

 

- Powerlet power outlet, batter charger plug

- Corbin seat

- Kisan Technologies headlight and tail-light modulators, and signal cancellers with running light function

- "wake your neighbor" FIAMM horns, wired with a relay directly to the battery(the headlight is next )

- Ohlins suspension front & rear

- M Toby steering damper

- Heated grips

- lead-shot and silicone weighted bars

- Throttlemeisters

- Touring windscreen

- Powder coated sideplates and matching valve covers

- Custom "under fender" extensions to protect the shock, transmission, battery, and wiring harness from debris since rear hugger has been removed

- various stock harness wiring improvements/upgrades

 

 

...and various purely cosmetic bits like my faux airbox sidecover support frame, rear fender eliminator, CF front fender, etc...

 

al

[Guest Bruce]

Al,

 

You've obviously done alot to the engine and suspension what are your thoughts on lighter rotating mass such as wheels, fly wheel, or clutch? It would seem that changes here could have a significant real world impact on performance.

 

BTW congrats on the new arrival!

 

Bruce

[al_roethlisberger]

Al,

 

You've obviously done alot to the engine and suspension what are your thoughts on lighter rotating mass such as wheels, fly wheel, or clutch? It would seem that changes here could have a significant real world impact on performance.

 

BTW congrats on the new arrival!

 

Bruce

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

WRT to suspension - If I could afford some PVM wheels, or find an affordable set of Dymags(they don't make them anymore), I would put them on lickety-split.

 

Reducing unsprung rotating mass almost always produces positive results, and according to many is one of the most noticeable and best spent of the "expensive" modifications one can do to a bike. I don't think there's really a downside, although I have heard some issues voiced by those in the know that for real-world street riding that heavier wheels(...it's all relative) like our OEM Brembos adds some degree of "damping" with regard to road irregularities, etc

 

Also, as Paul has pointed out, there may be some manufacturer/model specific wheels that one may need to be mindful of specific issues like lack of a cush-drive(OZ wheels) or more race appropriate wheels that may not hold up to the abuse public roads present. It would be very disappointing I'm sure to spend $3k on a set of wheels, just to bend them on the first pot hole

 

Drivetrain - Well, I can only report what I've been told, as currently the rotating mass of the drivetrain on my bike is still stock.

 

When talking to Mike Rich about the potential of lighter pistons, connecting rods, flywheel.... he said that for a street bike, a flywheel and related mass is there for a reason, to smooth out the engine pulses, and make for a smoother bike.

 

Now, that doesn't mean that a bike with a dramatically lightened drivetrain won't idle, or is unrideable.... but there is a tradeoff.

 

For example, he cited an older Guzzi that someone had done a lot of work upon to get a light rotating mass, including shaving the flywheel.... and in his opinion, it wsa unrideable in city traffic.... idling poorly(like a hotrod Chevy with a big cam), snatchy, and easy to kill... frustrating. Now on a race track, it would have been fun though.

 

But for someone that only lightens their engine's rotating mass a bit, then you can end up with a quick revving engine, that still idles well, vibrates little, etc....

 

And for someone that puts on lots of highway/touring miles, the stock mass(or even more??) might be better.

 

Making some assumptions on how most of us ride our bikes, what I would recommend though is that "drop in" pistons(essentially the same weight as stock), Carillo rods, and a slightly lightened flywheel(such as the single plate represents) should be fine, and make for a fun quick-revving engine, that will still run well.

 

Also I would recommend calling someone like Mike Rich, and describe your riding style, goals, and see what he recommends. Keep in mind I'm no expert on these issues though, so continue to do your own research by talking to others that have made these types of modifications.

 

al

[F344]

From - http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/dynos/

[RacerX]

WRT to suspension -  If I could afford some PVM wheels, or find an affordable set of Dymags (they don't make them anymore), I would put them on lickety-split.

Stay tuned to GuzziTech.com over the next few months... I hope to have some great news for lighter & affordable Guzzi wheels for Spines.

 

F344, Stock-ish V11's make high-70's/low 80's. Mild motor work can get them to 90rwhp fairly easy, and (as once said by Manfred/Raceco) it'll take a whole lot of money and headaches to get them over that. Spinning them well over 10k rpm, or a turbo comes to mind.

 

Todd@GuzziTech.com

[emry]

or a turbo comes to mind.

 

 

 

I always liked blow jobs.

 

Sorry....

[Guest socket]

82.16 rwhp pods pc3usb stock pipes w/ steel wool removed and stock cross over

[zebulon]

with 4V engines they claim upto 132 (1200cc)

 

 

it is doable, but it will cost you $$$ (or rather lots of euros)

 

To be exact a complete 4v 1225 engine by dynotec is between 6500 to 8 000 (only for engine & gearbox).

In such condition depending of your choice engine is between 124 & 136 hp at the crank.

for the 1288 it is more regarding only the price of the special crank (1500 eur) + new rods i think it is more than 10 000 eur because you are obliged to use the moto-spezial injection unit.

 

SO $$$$$$$

[Admin Jaap]

My results posted last week:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3612

[Motomonster]

I will be getting a dyno within the next week or two, depending on when my dyno guy gets his soundproof room finished. I'll post the results and we can see how well a modified cruiser compares with a sport.