Charging light, 30amp fuse issue

[LaGrasta]

@Flooky Curious, did the new Regulator include a direct positive wire to the battery?

I had exactly your issue, turned out it was nothing that needed replacing best I can tell; although I did replace everything! Once I ran the direct wire, all seemed fixed, no more blown or melting fuse.

[Sam P]

On 8/2/2025 at 9:24 AM, LaGrasta said:

@Flooky Curious, did the new Regulator include a direct positive wire to the battery?

I had exactly your issue, turned out it was nothing that needed replacing best I can tell; although I did replace everything! Once I ran the direct wire, all seemed fixed, no more blown or melting fuse.

@LaGrasta still troubleshooting my charging issue in the separate thread I started on September 12. I have a question for you regarding the direct wire from the reg/rec to the battery +, since I have installed this as well, and I am thinking the way I did it may be causing problems with the charging light.

In the attached wiring diagram, where I have made some notations, if you run a new wire direct from the reg/rec to the battery +,  I assume you are disconnecting the red/green wire (see my arrow #1 in the diagram) which runs from the reg/rec to the 30A fuse (F3).  Correct? So my question is, when you eliminate power to Fuse 3, you also eliminate power to the other side of the fuse (see my arrow #2), correct? If I am right so far, then trace the wire from the output of fuse 3 down to my arrow #3, where it connects to the yellow/black wire going back up to fuses 4 and 5, at my arrow #4. These fuses are for the ignition switch, headlight, start, stop. So my concern is how to these things get power, since your mod seems to have eliminated power to Fuse 3?

Edited September 18 by Sam P

[docc]

Not to steal @LaGrasta's response, but Fuse #4 has its own, separate  ring terminal to the battery positive.

The regulator's charge to the battery can be changed without affecting the other connections to the battery.

[gstallons]

Check fuse 4 to see if 12v is at both sides of the fuse (this will give a good indication the ring terminal is attached to the battery and then check for V at the regulator. You're on your own AFA the correct color. 

This won't be the first time a disconnected ring terminal has been a problem !

Edited September 19 by gstallons

[gstallons]

To SamP and all others. The charging system wiring on the red frame bikes has the red/black wire going from the battery (green/black wire) to the F5 , then (blue) to  the start relay to the headlight relay and then to the V regulator. )

 The wiring on the black frame bikes goes from the battery to the (red/black) headlight relay and then to the V regulator. This looks like the only difference in the wiring diagrams of the charge circuit.

The red/black wire goes to the batter through F3.

 The blue wire goes to the GEN light in the instrument cluster. 

The two red wires either join ant the connector of the V regulator or join at F3 in the fuse panel. 

 The last two (yellow) go directly to the stator. 

 Wire colors are a suggestion not an edict !

 

 Trivia . The rotor is the rotating field and this is why it is called the rotor. The stator is stationary and this is why it has the name stator. 

  

Edited 1 hour ago by gstallons
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