Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[docc]

2 hours ago, Sam P said:

I just cleaned up this connector with Deoxit. Fired up the engine and am still seeing only 12.3vdc at the battery. Thought I should check the output voltage from the reg/rec going into this connection, which I have not done yet. What should the voltage be at idle and with some revs? If the voltage is not good, then the rec/rec is malfunctioning, correct? (I have tested the AC voltage from the stator yellow wires, and it looked OK).

The black wire of that connector is the "voltage reference" from Relay #2 ("Headlight Relay") and should have no output from the regulator. The harness side of the black wire should be near battery voltage with the key on.

The white (or lighter) wire should ground through the warning bulb. An ohm meter through the harness side of the lighter colored wire should show continuous to ground. Also, a test light from the positive terminal should light when connected to the harness side of the white/lighter colored wire (which should also illuminate the warning light).

[Sam P]

39 minutes ago, docc said:

The black wire of that connector is the "voltage reference" from Relay #2 ("Headlight Relay") and should have no output from the regulator. The harness side of the black wire should be near battery voltage with the key on.

The white (or lighter) wire should ground through the warning bulb. An ohm meter through the harness side of the lighter colored wire should show continuous to ground. Also, a test light from the positive terminal should light when connected to the harness side of the white/lighter colored wire (which should also illuminate the warning light).

Wow, thank you. I am indeed a novice! Will look into this tomorrow.

[docc]

50 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Wow, thank you. I am indeed a novice! Will look into this tomorrow.

We're just all working together, my friend. You are doing a great job reporting back what you find.

If we cannot find a bad connection somewhere, the new regulator will, indeed, be suspect as faulty.

[gstallons]

5 hours ago, Sam P said:

I just cleaned up this connector with Deoxit. Fired up the engine and am still seeing only 12.3vdc at the battery. Thought I should check the output voltage from the reg/rec going into this connection, which I have not done yet. What should the voltage be at idle and with some revs? If the voltage is not good, then the rec/rec is malfunctioning, correct? (I have tested the AC voltage from the stator yellow wires, and it looked OK).

Did you increase  the RPM after you started it  ? 

I worked on a BMW car WAY longer than I wanted. No charge. I replaced the battery, alternator twice . After doing a WHOLE lot of work , testing and replacing , NO charge. For some stupid reason I blipped the throttle and the rest is history.

 Do make sure all ringlets are on the battery + and -. Make sure F3 has 12v (I think I said F4 earlier but I am wrong. This circuit goes from the b+ side of the battery to F3 and then to the regulator.

[gstallons]

SamP , please understand we do want you and your bike HAPPY.  Giving opinions is easy and giving the correct advice is difficult. After this is finished , you will be able to give a clinic on charging systems and have a great understanding or misunderstanding of electrical components.

Edited 6 hours ago by gstallons

[Sam P]

11 hours ago, gstallons said:

Do make sure all ringlets are on the battery + and -. Make sure F3 has 12v (I think I said F4 earlier but I am wrong. This circuit goes from the b+ side of the battery to F3 and then to the regulator.

Yesterday I checked and cleaned all the battery connections and they are good. My F3 is now bypassed with a new 10AWG wire - with inline 30A fuse - from battery + to the two red wires at the regulator.

[gstallons]

And ?  Charging ?

Using the wiring diagram I think is for your bike , your blue wire goes from the regulator to the gen dash light and is tied into the oil press. , low fuel lights and then into the tach + terminal . Correct ? 

BTW , does your oil light work correctly ? 

Edited 5 hours ago by gstallons

[Sam P]

30 minutes ago, gstallons said:

And ?  Charging ?

Using the wiring diagram I think is for your bike , your blue wire goes from the regulator to the gen dash light and is tied into the oil press. , low fuel lights and then into the tach + terminal . Correct ? 

BTW , does your oil light work correctly ? 

Well the DMM reads 12.3vDC at the battery terminals, at idle and when revved.  Now I'm not sure if that's volts coming from the regulator, or if it's reading the current from the battery.  

The low fuel light was working prior to this "no charging" issue, but I have a few gallons in the tank now, which I suppose I could siphon out to see if the light turns on. Oil light has never turned on, but then the oil has always been full. Tach is working properly.

Edited 5 hours ago by Sam P
Clarity, I hope....

[docc]

Oil light should come with the ignition, prior to starting and extinguish almost instantly on start-up.

At this point, your battery is really flat and should be charged. If it's a Hawker Odyssey at 12.3v, perform a proper "conditioning" . . .

 

 

[Sam P]

1 minute ago, docc said:

Oil light should come with the ignition, prior to starting and extinguish almost instantly on start-up.

At this point, your battery is really flat and should be charged. If it's a Hawker Odyssey at 12.3v, perform a proper "conditioning" . . .

 

 

Oil light never turned on iirc, since I have owned the bike.

The battery was at 13v key off this morning, after being on the tender overnight. You are saying this is flat?

[Pressureangle]

33 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Oil light never turned on iirc, since I have owned the bike.

The battery was at 13v key off this morning, after being on the tender overnight. You are saying this is flat?

To avoid confusion, here's a chart showing battery state-of-charge; this chart is 'under load', which means the top line would be perhaps 'key on' and the bottom line would be 'starter engaged'. This matters because a battery near the end of it's useful life may show good voltage at rest but fail under load. An at-rest lead battery should be 12.6-12.9 volts unloaded. 
 

[gstallons]

The oil light concern is to verify the status of the circuit. Disconnect the oil press. switch wire and touch it to a good ground . With the KOEO the light should come on. If it does that is good and the other side of the gen. , oil light & low fuel light circuit is good. You make dann certain you are making good connections when you are testing for B+ and B- on anything. Use a good test light with a conventional bulb. As in NO LED bulb. There is a reason.

 The battery V has to do with the fact if it is AGM or lead/acid or a gel-cell battery. An AGM fully charged battery has around 12.8v and a lead acid has 12.65v. 

Edited 3 hours ago by gstallons

[Sam P]

2 hours ago, Sam P said:

Well the DMM reads 12.3vDC at the battery terminals, at idle and when revved.  Now I'm not sure if that's volts coming from the regulator, or if it's reading the current from the battery.  

The low fuel light was working prior to this "no charging" issue, but I have a few gallons in the tank now, which I suppose I could siphon out to see if the light turns on. Oil light has never turned on, but then the oil has always been full. Tach is working properly.

Quoting myself here, the output from the reg at idle and when revved is only 3-6 vdc. Took this reading at the butt crimp connector from the red reg output wire to the 10AWG wire to the battery +, with the inline 30A fuse removed. NOT CHARGING.

Now, on to troubleshooting the dashboard lights.....

Edited 2 hours ago by Sam P

[docc]

2 hours ago, Sam P said:

Oil light never turned on iirc, since I have owned the bike.

The battery was at 13v key off this morning, after being on the tender overnight. You are saying this is flat?

Ah - I was going by the 12.3v you reported.

12.84v is 100% for an AGM. Chart below is for a non-AGM lead acid battery.

2 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

To avoid confusion, here's a chart showing battery state-of-charge; this chart is 'under load', which means the top line would be perhaps 'key on' and the bottom line would be 'starter engaged'. This matters because a battery near the end of it's useful life may show good voltage at rest but fail under load. An at-rest lead battery should be 12.6-12.9 volts unloaded. 
 

 

[Pressureangle]

7 minutes ago, docc said:

Ah - I was going by the 12.3v you reported.

12.84v is 100% for an AGM. Chart below is for a non-AGM lead acid battery.

 

Pssst. (AGM is still lead-acid)