Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[docc]

True, but VRLA, so the voltages are higher overall.

Plus, the Odyssey apparently has some specific charging parameters. Especially either regard to "trickle chargers.

[Sam P]

On 9/18/2025 at 4:59 PM, docc said:

+1 on "Wiggle Testing."

The corollary of my supposing that finding the charging fault may fix the light is: affecting the light may reveal the charging fault.

Wiggling the key (turned on) and then the harness attachments to regulator didn't activate any dashboard lights.

I was going to open up the dash to see if there were any loose connections or corrosion inside. Any tips on how to get in there? The three 3mm hex fasteners feel like they may be stripped....

Edited Saturday at 05:26 PM by Sam P

[Pressureangle]

1 hour ago, docc said:

True, but VRLA, so the voltages are higher overall.

Plus, the Odyssey apparently has some specific charging parameters. Especially either regard to "trickle chargers.

Not so much, really. Unsealed, liquid lead acid needs more float than AGM or VRLA but it's hard even to find those in 12v anymore, usually they're 6v deep cycle. 

https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-214-summary-table-of-lead-based-batteries

[Pressureangle]

1 hour ago, Sam P said:

Wiggling the key (turned on) and then the harness attachments to regulator didn't activate any dashboard lights.

I was going to open up the dash to see if there were any loose connections or corrosion inside. Any tips on how to get in there? The three 3mm hex fasteners feel like they may be stripped....

Those screws pass through the mounting plate and thread into the plastic housing below (may have brass inserts, don't have it in hand) but you probably feel the plastic housing dropping away, which you can't see. 

[gstallons]

smarta$$

[gstallons]

1 hour ago, Sam P said:

Wiggling the key (turned on) and then the harness attachments to regulator didn't activate any dashboard lights.

I was going to open up the dash to see if there were any loose connections or corrosion inside. Any tips on how to get in there? The three 3mm hex fasteners feel like they may be stripped....

find a new form of entertainment because these ain't comin' out. 

[docc]

3 hours ago, Sam P said:

Wiggling the key (turned on) and then the harness attachments to regulator didn't activate any dashboard lights.

I was going to open up the dash to see if there were any loose connections or corrosion inside. Any tips on how to get in there? The three 3mm hex fasteners feel like they may be stripped....

I wonder if you lift gently on the bezel while loosening each screw a little at a time that it will slowly come up and off.

It would be nice to verify the bulbs are good and get some Caig DeOxit on the contacts.

[gstallons]

SamP , do it like this . Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch and the blue wire from the V regulator and use a multimeter to check the continuity of this circuit. This will verify the wiring , bulb (as long as the oil light bulb is good) and the fact you have a complete circuit. No need to disassemble the instrument cluster.

 I use an analog meter instead of a DVOM. 

Edited Saturday at 08:37 PM by gstallons
more info

[Sam P]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

SamP , do it like this . Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch and the blue wire from the V regulator and use a multimeter to check the continuity of this circuit. This will verify the wiring , bulb (as long as the oil light bulb is good) and the fact you have a complete circuit. No need to disassemble the instrument cluster.

 I use an analog meter instead of a DVOM. 

OK will try this tomorrow and report back. From a quick look at the wiring diagram, it looks like the Oil Pressure blue/black wire leads from the instrument light panel to a 12-way Amp connector. Assume I could get the multimeter needle into the connector, or would I need to remove the wire to take the reading? Haven't looked at the actual connector yet, just the diagram.....

[gstallons]

No , disconnect the wire at the oil press. switch and the ( I hope it is) blue wire at the regulator to test the continuity . This will work if both alt. and oil press. lamp bulbs are good. This is going to have to work since the three screws are messed up and you can't disassemble this housing.   

IDK where this 12 pin connector is so I am not sure how easy it is to reach.

 

 

Edited yesterday at 01:47 AM by gstallons

[docc]

Location of said oil pressure switch. Yours will not have the rubber boot . . .

[gstallons]

SamP . This will be easier and 100% . instead of testing at the oil pressure switch , remove the #2 relay (headlight relay) and probe the center terminal to the blue (again I hope this is the right color) to see if there is a complete circuit for the charge light. 

[Sam P]

3 hours ago, gstallons said:

SamP . This will be easier and 100% . instead of testing at the oil pressure switch , remove the #2 relay (headlight relay) and probe the center terminal to the blue (again I hope this is the right color) to see if there is a complete circuit for the charge light. 

With ohm meter set at 200, I got 15 ohms, between the blue wire and the center terminal pictured below. What does this mean? I know it's very basic but my electrical knowledge is poor.

(If you meant by "center terminal" the terminal centered below my arrow, the resistance there was zero).

Edited yesterday at 04:00 PM by Sam P

[gstallons]

Hmmmm.

[docc]

4 hours ago, Sam P said:

With ohm meter set at 200, I got 15 ohms, between the blue wire and the center terminal pictured below. What does this mean? I know it's very basic but my electrical knowledge is poor.

(If you meant by "center terminal" the terminal centered below my arrow, the resistance there was zero).

If you set your Ohm meter to a higher setting, say 2kΩ (2000 Ohms), the reading between the terminal you arrowed and the regulator connector at with the lighter wire (not black) should read > 0 < (zero) indicating no resistance (continuous/connected circuit). 

The "center terminal" position, being the middle of the smaller three doesn't have a connection in the socket (empty). The Ohm reading from anywhere to that empty socket should read > 1 < or infinite resistance (no connection).

There should certainly be > 0 < (zero) Ohms from that indicated relay connection to the black wire at the regulator connector ("voltage reference").