turn the key, and nothing happens...

[fastaussie]

my V11 Le Mans has been starting up and running perfectly, no worries.  

and then yesterday, i turned the run button off and on, and now nothing.  now i put in the key in the ignition, turn it on, all lights come on, but nothing else happens.

is this the common fuse issue?  my bike has the upgraded fuses in it...

[Pressureangle]

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you flip the switch to 'run'? 

Next, you need a test light and seat off.  Gearbox in neutral, yes? I just had about a 5 minute WTF with a honda quad I haven't used in a few months because it wasn't in neutral. 

[GuzziMoto]

There are a few things that could prevent starting, as mentioned if the fuel pump doesn't run it likely isn't going to start.

Other issues could be neutral switch, if it doesn't say it is in neutral the clutch has to be pulled in to start as I recall. Or relays, the V11 has issues with the relays under the seat. There is also a common issue with the wires to the ignition switch, sometimes turning the bars back and forth will temporarily resolve that.

[GuzziMoto]

I seem to recall even the side stand switch plays a role in this, as does the clutch switch. If they say the side stand is down and / or the clutch is not pulled in the rules for starting are different (and harder to meet).

[audiomick]

8 hours ago, fastaussie said:

I turned the run button off and on, and now nothing.  

I would take the switch block off, dismantle the run button (I assume you mean the kill switch), clean it all and make a close visual inspection, put it all back together, and see if the problem is solved. 

[fastaussie]

4 hours ago, audiomick said:

I would take the switch block off, dismantle the run button (I assume you mean the kill switch), clean it all and make a close visual inspection, put it all back together, and see if the problem is solved. 

this is a possibility, and is a thought.

7 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

I seem to recall even the side stand switch plays a role in this, as does the clutch switch. If they say the side stand is down and / or the clutch is not pulled in the rules for starting are different (and harder to meet).

fuel pump was priming, and it was turning over initially.  

the side stand does not need to be up for it to start, i warm it up on the side stand constantly.  the clutch does have to be pulled in however, which was done of course.  relays was what i meant to say, not fuses.  i was wondering if that was the dreaded issue?

 

9 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you flip the switch to 'run'? 

Next, you need a test light and seat off.  Gearbox in neutral, yes? I just had about a 5 minute WTF with a honda quad I haven't used in a few months because it wasn't in neutral. 

yep, definitely in neutral.  i left it in neutral, and the light does work and indicate correctly.  i'm hoping it's just a relay.  my bike has the upgrades and i have spares... 

[Pressureangle]

9 hours ago, fastaussie said:

 

fuel pump was priming, and it was turning over initially.  

  relays was what i meant to say, not fuses.  i was wondering if that was the dreaded issue?

 

yep, definitely in neutral.  i left it in neutral, and the light does work and indicate correctly.  i'm hoping it's just a relay.  my bike has the upgrades and i have spares... 

Turning over initially, but quit? Give a bit more info- was it turning over such that you expected it to start? Did it quit turning on a second push of the starter button, or  while turning? Was it turning, didn't start, so you cycled the run switch then no crank? The easy way to test the relay is to throw a known good one in, if you have the functional old ones you took out or swap the headlight relay into the start position. Check your battery voltage, this is starting to smell like a bad battery. 

[GuzziMoto]

Yeah, there is a difference between "nothing happens" when you try to start it and it turned over but didn't start.

It could be battery failure. I have seen rather sudden failures of the battery, failures where the battery shorted internally suddenly and lost the ability to start the bike as it could not deliver enough amperage to run the starter. The battery still had voltage, and if you bump started the bike it would run. But the battery no longer could start the bike.

If the fuel pump primed, that eliminates a few suspects, like the kill switch and at least some of the relays, along with the wiring to the ignition switch and the switch.

 

The side stand does not need to be up for it to start, but as I recall it looks at the side stand switch status and depending on that status it alters what other safeties (like the neutral switch and clutch switch) have to be met in order for it to start. If the side stand is down and it doesn't see the bike in neutral AND it doesn't see the clutch pulled in it won't allow the engine to run or be started as I recall. 

[audiomick]

3 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

.... If the side stand is down and it doesn't see the bike in neutral AND it doesn't see the clutch pulled in it won't allow the engine to run or be started as I recall. 

Without going back over the wiring diagramm again, I believe that is exactly the case.

[docc]

 Certainly the Neutral/middle Relay (#3) can fail and the neutral light still comes on.

Easiest test is to sit on the bike, clutch in,  and attempt to start with stand up. This completely bypasses the neutral switch/relay.

[fastaussie]

On 10/23/2025 at 8:51 AM, Pressureangle said:

Turning over initially, but quit? Give a bit more info- was it turning over such that you expected it to start? Did it quit turning on a second push of the starter button, or  while turning? Was it turning, didn't start, so you cycled the run switch then no crank? The easy way to test the relay is to throw a known good one in, if you have the functional old ones you took out or swap the headlight relay into the start position. Check your battery voltage, this is starting to smell like a bad battery. 

 

On 10/23/2025 at 9:06 AM, GuzziMoto said:

Yeah, there is a difference between "nothing happens" when you try to start it and it turned over but didn't start.

the bike was turning over as it normally does, cranking at full speed, attempting to sputter to life.  i turned the "run" switch off and on one time, and then nothing would happen.  all lights on the dash are on, the headlight is on, but when i hit the button, nothing happens.  no turning over anymore...

p.s. the battery is newish.

Edited October 25 by fastaussie

[Pressureangle]

A couple easy tests- 

Battery Voltage at rest

Battery voltage key on

Battery voltage while attempting to crank

If these are all good- and you *should* see some reduction of voltage at key on/crank attempt 

Measure voltage at starter solenoid signal wire while attempting to crank. 

If voltage is good in all these places, it'll be your starter. 

Now, a question I can't answer because I'm not familiar enough with the schematics and years; if your bike runs the starter solenoid through the lighting relay, the headlight should go dark when you press the start button. *If* yours goes through the relay, and it stays lit when pressing, then suspect the start or run switch. May not be a bad idea just to clean and service those switches anyway, I recall a number of mentions, particularly @docc having start failure due to corrosion/mung.

[docc]

This has been mentioned, but worth a review:

With key on, run switch on - all lights come on and fuel pump primes, but start button = zero (no crank, no grunt, no click):

Seated on the bike, keep the clutch lever pulled in and hold the starter button in while turning the bars fully lock-to-lock. If the starter engages, suspect the two "bullet" connectors for the clutch switch that are located at the left front of the frame spine near the steering head:

[audiomick]

27 minutes ago, fastaussie said:

 

... i turned the "run" switch off and on one time, and then nothing would happen.  ...

For me, that is a clear indication to check that switch before looking any further. Without having it in front of me, it should be just a matter of pulling the plug, finding the connection(s) in the plug that go to and come from the switch, put a multimeter on them, and operate the switch a couple of times. I.e.  check continuity through the switch to see if it is switching off and back on correctly.

[Pressureangle]

8 minutes ago, docc said:

This has been mentioned, but worth a review:

With key on, run switch on - all lights come on and fuel pump primes, but start button = zero (no crank, no grunt, no click):

Seated on the bike, keep the clutch lever pulled in and hold the starter button in while turning the bars fully lock-to-lock. If the starter engages, suspect the two "bullet" connectors for the clutch switch that are located at the left front of the frame spine near the steering head:

Not want to complicate things, but the clutch switch is only of concern when trying to crank in gear?