Spinning on the starter - wont kick over

[Pressureangle]

1 minute ago, docc said:

Are those degrees Fahrenheit?

I forget there are people who don't do F. 
Fahrfegnugen.

[bentombed]

9 hours ago, pete roper said:

Buy a phase sensor. They’re cheap.

done! https://spareto.com/products/meat-and-doria-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/87074  I found them on here, the cross reference section is really useful for confirming i got the right thing

[bentombed]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

Thanks for clarifying that link. I don't see a price there, though . . .

i found it on this page - $15 usd each. https://spareto.com/products/meat-and-doria-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/87074

[Pressureangle]

3 minutes ago, bentombed said:

that description fits perfectly -  bike would run worse as i approached work or home, (about 25ks each way) but would start fine.  The idle had started to wander - it sounded like it was searching for fuel, and would stall at the lights every now and then.   when i last had the bike running it was to warm it up to balance the throttle bodys and tune it. was treating the wrong symptom.  

Now that you mention it, the sensor was really hard to get out, i had to get some fuel hose pliers to get enough force on it.  I didnt know to check for swelling, i'll take a look at that when the new one arrives. need to find the right sized o-ring for it too. 

Should come with o-ring; be sure you keep track of the shims under the stock one. Fit the two together upside-down to be certain they're the same length, if so send it. Or you can measure the reluctor clearance any number of ways, digital caliper, depth micrometer, home-made tool. 

[audiomick]

11 minutes ago, docc said:

 I don't see a price there, though . . .

A very quick search indicates between €20.- and €30.-, depending on vendor.

[gstallons]

4 hours ago, audiomick said:

I can't say for sure.

The post about testing with a heat gun that I referred to was this one, from @Pressureangle

I understand that to mean: The thing is a magnetic sensor. It should never go open circuit, I believe. If it is going open when it gets warm, it is broken, even if it looks good when cold. But I am making assumptions there, and would welcome someone else's confirmation of the logic. 

 

4 hours ago, audiomick said:

I can't say for sure.

The post about testing with a heat gun that I referred to was this one, from @Pressureangle

I understand that to mean: The thing is a magnetic sensor. It should never go open circuit, I believe. If it is going open when it gets warm, it is broken, even if it looks good when cold. But I am making assumptions there, and would welcome someone else's confirmation of the logic. 

The first test is to put your meter on resistance and check the two terminals for probably 5k resistance . If it reads O.L. or infinite , it is certainly bad. 

If it checks ok , and your meter can read frequency , put the meter terminals to the sensor and have someone crank the engine and watch for an output in Hz . As long as it is producing an output , you are good to go. You do need to study up on how to use your meter and test these components. IDK what brand you use but watch plenty of videos or join a forum involving your meter and get involved with it. You will enjoy knowing how to test / verify something is good or bad. Trust me , if an idiot like me can use it , you will have no trouble using it.

[bentombed]

update -

Got the new sensor and installed it.  still not sparking. i dont know where to look now - when i took the old sensor out it was quite swollen, the oring was mashed up. it had three plates to set the air gap.  My guess is that this air gap is too big?, how do i check it? i also need to check the o-ring, i have a feeling that the new one i installed is too thick - the new sensor did not come with replacement.  Do any of you know the oring specs?  

[docc]

I'm not sure the metric spec on the O-ring, but have successfully used #112 Viton.

[audiomick]

16 hours ago, bentombed said:

... My guess is that this air gap is too big?, how do i check it?...

Look at page 213 in this document for the gap, and the part numbers of the shims in various thicknesses.

https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

As far as measuring the gap goes, you have to measure the depth of the hole to the toothed wheel, compare it to the length of the sensor you have, and calculate how thick the shims have to be.

I went a bit overboard, and made this to measure the depth of the hole:

I have it on good authority that trying to measure with a set of vernier caliper with a depth measurement is not likely to produce good results. 

Someone who's advice I respect suggested using one of these (I only know the German name for it: Rändelmutter) for an M6, or M5, thread. 

https://www.schraubenhandel24.de/muttern/raendelmuttern/din-466/din-466-raendelmuttern-edelstahl-1-4305/

My solution can be screwed down onto the motor. The Rändelmutter can't. How important that is must be decided by the user.

Whatever, the point is to invent something that allows a bolt to be introduced down the hole for the sensor to find the depth to the toothed wheel. This must be stable enough to be able to then take the bolt out, and measure the length of bolt beyond the seat of the hole, in order to calculate the thickness of shims, related to the length of the sensor in hand, to achieve the proscribed gap.

Sounds complicated, but actually it isn't. 

Edited yesterday at 02:09 AM by audiomick

[bentombed]

4 hours ago, audiomick said:

Look at page 213 in this document for the gap, and the part numbers of the shims in various thicknesses.

https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

As far as measuring the gap goes, you have to measure the depth of the hole to the toothed wheel, compare it to the length of the sensor you have, and calculate how thick the shims have to be.

I went a bit overboard, and made this to measure the depth of the hole:

I have it on good authority that trying to measure with a set of vernier caliper with a depth measurement is not likely to produce good results. 

Someone who's advice I respect suggested using one of these (I only know the German name for it: Rändelmutter) for an M6, or M5, thread. 

https://www.schraubenhandel24.de/muttern/raendelmuttern/din-466/din-466-raendelmuttern-edelstahl-1-4305/

My solution can be screwed down onto the motor. The Rändelmutter can't. How important that is must be decided by the user.

Whatever, the point is to invent something that allows a bolt to be introduced down the hole for the sensor to find the depth to the toothed wheel. This must be stable enough to be able to then take the bolt out, and measure the length of bolt beyond the seat of the hole, in order to calculate the thickness of shims, related to the length of the sensor in hand, to achieve the proscribed gap.

Sounds complicated, but actually it isn't. 

that tool is genius - I will see what i can put together. 

[bentombed]

6 hours ago, audiomick said:

Look at page 213 in this document for the gap, and the part numbers of the shims in various thicknesses.

https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

As far as measuring the gap goes, you have to measure the depth of the hole to the toothed wheel, compare it to the length of the sensor you have, and calculate how thick the shims have to be.

I went a bit overboard, and made this to measure the depth of the hole:

I have it on good authority that trying to measure with a set of vernier caliper with a depth measurement is not likely to produce good results. 

Someone who's advice I respect suggested using one of these (I only know the German name for it: Rändelmutter) for an M6, or M5, thread. 

https://www.schraubenhandel24.de/muttern/raendelmuttern/din-466/din-466-raendelmuttern-edelstahl-1-4305/

My solution can be screwed down onto the motor. The Rändelmutter can't. How important that is must be decided by the user.

Whatever, the point is to invent something that allows a bolt to be introduced down the hole for the sensor to find the depth to the toothed wheel. This must be stable enough to be able to then take the bolt out, and measure the length of bolt beyond the seat of the hole, in order to calculate the thickness of shims, related to the length of the sensor in hand, to achieve the proscribed gap.

Sounds complicated, but actually it isn't. 

i used one of these did the trick! sadly- i have no power to the sensor...  

[bentombed]

to day i checked everything, replaced everything i could, crossed my fingers and tried to start up my bike again.  it didnt start.   
i posted asking for help with the bike stalling and not starting again, i replaced the crank shaft sensor, i have checked the coils, all the connections, charged the battery, checked the kill switch and side stand switches, checked and replaced relays and fuses.  and it still does not go.  i am not sure where to go from here.  Stator? earths?  loom? some other thing.  I will post up when i find the solution. 

[docc]

Does the fuel pump whir every time the Run/"kill" switch is cycled?

[gstallons]

On 10/26/2025 at 3:15 AM, bentombed said:

Hello - after about 3 years of trouble free riding I started my 2002 Scura up a week or so back to head out,for the day and it stalled.  its not started again - whenever i try the bike will just spin on the starter. fuel pump works, all the other electrics work but there is no spark.  I have checked the plugs, coils, HT leads, relays and fuses - all were good.  I then checked the crankshaft sensor, the resistance between the poles was in spec, but despite a few efforts i could not get a reading from the sensor itself.  the TPS tested in spec - i havent checked the voltage though. 

My guess is that the crankshaft sensor is cooked and that i need to order a replacement,  if its not that what else should i be checking? the bike has a few mods to the wiring, the fuel pump is on its own fuse and i have added a few additional earth wires that keep it going and charging well. 

any help or suggestions greatly appreciated. 

 

 

When you go and try to start the bike and turn the switch to the key on position , does the fuel pump come on for about two seconds and turn off?  What lights sre on on the instrument cluster? Also are the headlights on ?

 Then when you crank the bike does the starter sound normal? 

[audiomick]

On 11/8/2025 at 9:30 AM, bentombed said:

i have no power to the sensor... 

Can you describe exactly how you came to this conclusion?

The connector for the sensor has three pins. As far as I can tell from the schematic, one of them must be a shield connection that goes off to earth at the ECU end. The other two connect to pins on the ECU.

If you can't find volts anywhere on the connector that the sensor plugs in to, bearing in mind that it is possibly only 5 Volts or something, not the full 12V, checking all the connectors involved is the first thing. I.e. the one the sensor plugs into directly, the one the ECU plugs in to, and any others in between.

If those are all definitely good, maybe the ECU has a problem.

Edited 52 minutes ago by audiomick