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Posted

Thanks for posting those GEI relays. Yes, they are suspect and under-rated. Get a set of the Pickers and replace them all as a matter of course.

Yes, #5 is the rear-most and supplies the fuel pump, coils and injectors. That is a high current application.

Sure, there could be other issues, but this is a good start!

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Posted

I did just try swapping #4 with #5... no priming of the fuel pump but i did noticed a louder click coming from the relay.

 

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Posted
2 minutes ago, Paul6506 said:

I did just try swapping #4 with #5... no priming of the fuel pump but i did noticed a louder click coming from the relay.

 

What is your battery voltage with the key off?

Posted

I'll have to check and get back to you...It seems to crank over normal.

Would that affect the relay and or the fuel pump?

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Paul6506 said:

Would that affect the relay and or the fuel pump?

If by "that" the battery voltage, key off, is meant, yes it could if it is far too low. Given that you say that it seems to be cranking over normally, I wouldn't expect the relay or the fuel pump to be compromised. More likely, the voltage from the battery isn't getting through to the relay and/or the pump.

Measure the battery voltage, as @docc suggested. That is the first step.

If there are enough volts there, the next step is to follow the volts through the wiring harness and find out where they are disappearing.

If there are not enough volts at the battery, the question is whether the battery is dead, or if it is just not being charged properly.

Edited by audiomick
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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Paul6506 said:

Need help/advice.... 2003 V11 LeMans. Had an issue a month ago where bike would turn over but not start. Noticed that I didn't hear the internal fuel pump prime when turning the key. Tapped on bottom of pump and tried the key a few times and it primed and ran flawless...until now. Bike has been sitting for a few weeks, turned key and no fuel pump priming noise. All lights are working...tapped the fuel pump base a few times and after a few tries she primmed....but now it turns over but wont catch. Fuel pump shot?

Recommendations on repairing. I'm out of my comfort zone with this repair. Anyone live close to East Tennessee?

Yes pump is shot. They are dirt cheap to buy with new filter and hose. I'm assuming it's an in tank pump on an 03 model? I've had the exact same issue on an in tank pump. I got it working again with some WD40 in it but replaced it anyway. I was selling the whole pump assy and thought I'd check it before I shipped it so at the end of the day the buyer got a brand new pump. Sold it to someone here I think.

Phil

Edited by Lucky Phil
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Posted

Just an FYI...Bike sits on a battery tender. Always has. I do realize that doesn't mean the battery could be failing.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, Paul6506 said:

Just an FYI...Bike sits on a battery tender. Always has. I do realize that doesn't mean the battery could be failing.

The pump starting after tapping it is the clue here. When they start to fail they jam up. Lack of running, drying out in an empty tank and fuel contamination all play a part in addition to age. Time for a new pump anyway. I think people need to consider that things age and need to be "hard time" replaced if you don't want to be stranded on the side of the road at some point. These bikes are now 20-25 year old machines with electronic controls in a often hot, wet, fuel and vibratory environment. So fuel pumps, ignition pickups, relays, TPS etc will have a "life". Some stuff can be serviced like the ignition switch but some things just have a "life" just like an aircraft part.

Phil   

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Posted (edited)

Lucky Phil...

Yes, pump is in the tank. Tank is always kept full when not riding. Always ethanol free gas. 

Did you buy a complete fuel pump unit or just the  electric motor?

Any links would be appreciated. 

Also...any tips,tricks doing this pump change? Of course I have a full tank of fuel to deal with. 😒

Edited by Paul6506
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Posted
2 hours ago, docc said:

Thanks for posting those GEI relays. Yes, they are suspect and under-rated. Get a set of the Pickers and replace them all as a matter of course.

Yes, #5 is the rear-most and supplies the fuel pump, coils and injectors. That is a high current application.

Sure, there could be other issues, but this is a good start!

Doc...Would I replace all 5 resistors with the one you posted on pickers or just the #5 resistor?

Posted
5 minutes ago, Paul6506 said:

Doc...Would I replace all 5 resistors 

I think you mean relays, not resistors. B)

Yes, replace all of them, at least if you are not desperately strapped for cash. An acquaintance, who is very knowledgeable, and used to run a Guzzi workshop, I think, recommends changing all the relays every 4 years or so. :)

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Posted
7 minutes ago, Paul6506 said:

Doc...Would I replace all 5 resistors with the one you posted on pickers or just the #5 resistor?

I would run the Pickers Components relay in all positions. 

Since you are pulling electrical connections apart, it is good medicine to apply Caig® DeOxit to all exposed connections before reconnecting. I use their "Gold" product. Just do not get it on any of the soft connector seals (remove the seal, treat the connections, wipe off the surface, and replace the seal).

Posted
1 minute ago, docc said:

... to all exposed connections...

And any that aren't exposed, pull them apart and expose them, and treat them. B)

 

Along the lines of "if it moves, shoot it. If it doesn't move, push it till it moves." :whistle:

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Posted
8 hours ago, Paul6506 said:

Need help/advice . . . .   Anyone live close to East Tennessee?

 

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