Alex-Corsa Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 1. Is it genneraly considered acceptable to use any high quality synthetic SAE 80/90 in the trans and ring&pinnion? I know this is almost a religious question but when I drained the r&p housing what came out looked very silvery/grey like nothing I had ever seen before (no metal to speak of on drain plug magnet). Is this some sort of special break-in lube or just super fine break-in metal particals? I have read somewhere in a forum (maybe this one...) That the synthetic oil can damage some bearings in the gearbox,they have plastic guard- or housing (my tech English are quite bad for tech explanation). I was always using and use mineral oil for the gearbox and pinion,also the HPLS motorex addition in the pinion .The latest can be found on Stein Dinse---St.Dins. ENG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I have read somewhere in a forum (maybe this one...) That the synthetic oil candamage some bearings in the gearbox,they have plastic guard- or housing (my tech English are quite bad for tech explanation). I was always using and use mineral oil for the gearbox and pinion,also the HPLS motorex addition in the pinion .The latest can be found on Stein Dinse---St.Dins. ENG 51335[/snapback] Not the 6-speed. It did not use the plastic bearing cage. al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anawrocki Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Seemed tight to me as well, (tighter then anything else I have ever adjusted) but both my owners manual and service manual called for the same thing. I checked clearences prior to adjusting I checked them and they were .02 - .04 out of specs provided by manuals. I could not hear a discernable difference in valvetrain noise before/after. It did cough twice when I test rode it, I did pull it up to 120 MPH and it seemed to run out strong. It has been cold and rainy so I have not rode much. I guess if the cough persists I will back it off.02 each and see what happens. Somtimes running looser can be a good thing (speaking in general terms only, not as a Guzzi expert ) as you get a bit more "valve-closed" durration and a bit less lift. I suspect that is why it would run smoother and not cough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anawrocki Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 One more question for those of you who have been riding these a while. How warm/hot to the touch would you expect the bevel drive to normally be after sustained freeway speeds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Pretty darned warm... how warm? Not "ouch" warm, but warm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 ASO moly additive is good in the bevel drive due to the high pressures on the gear teeth at relatively slow speeds. From a tribological point of view, these additives should only be used in slow speed gearboxes as they are detrimental to rolling bearings at higher shaft speeds. I would not use a moly additive in the gearbox as it can encourage the balls in the bearings to skid on their tracks rather than rolling. This ruptures the oil film locally and causes overheating and later spalling of the track. Stick to the manual. Good quality plain gear oil in the tranny, and gear oil plus moly in the bevel drive. I personally think the fluid change intervals for the tranny and bevel drive are way too short. If the oil in the tranny is clear when viewed through the sight glass, leave well alone. (I await the howls of disagreement!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anawrocki Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Thanks, I am sure it is fine, it was very warm but not hot. It is just warmer then I would have guessed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 One more question for those of you who have been riding these a while. How warm/hot to the touch would you expect the bevel drive to normally be after sustained freeway speeds? 51833[/snapback] One of the benefits I noticed immediately after switching from dino to Redline Shockproof Heavy in both the trans and bevel box (smoother shifting and quieter running were the big ones for me) was that the temp of both boxes was consistently dramatically lower after long rides. I'd like to know if anyone ever did any kind of a scientific comparision on this. It was no small thing - I could hardly believe it. The Redline Tech I spoke with about this was not at all surprised. He said he would have been surprised if there wasn't a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 ...Redline Shockproof Heavy in both the trans and bevel box... Just done same. Man that's thick sticky stuff. Their tech dept said not to bother with adding moly to bevel box as it is used to give normal EP90 oil extra EP rating. Says Shockproof Heavy has EP rating of 250 - already way higher than conventional 90W w/ moly added. Any comments? I'm also hoping, being so thick may alleviate the gearbox weep... KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O2 V11 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 anawrocki, I would have to echo rachethack's posting on the temperature of the bevel drive after the change to synthetic. Initially mine felt more hot than warm to touch. Now it only feels a little warmer than the rear tyre itself, quite an amazing difference. Your valve clearances of 0.01 and 0.15mm are the "world specs" I referred to in a previous posting. I shouldn't think you should have any problems with them at these settings. Did you check your TPS setting and balance your throttle bodies as well? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aironepony Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 ASO moly additive is good in the bevel drive due to the high pressures on the gear teeth at relatively slow speeds. From a tribological point of view, these additives should only be used in slow speed gearboxes as they are detrimental to rolling bearings at higher shaft speeds. I would not use a moly additive in the gearbox as it can encourage the balls in the bearings to skid on their tracks rather than rolling. This ruptures the oil film locally and causes overheating and later spalling of the track. Stick to the manual. Good quality plain gear oil in the tranny, and gear oil plus moly in the bevel drive. I personally think the fluid change intervals for the tranny and bevel drive are way too short. If the oil in the tranny is clear when viewed through the sight glass, leave well alone. (I await the howls of disagreement!) 51839[/snapback] Excellent, I can now inform my acquaintance with the ASO in his gearbox that doom awaits. His balls will skid and he will rupture. I argued the point with him in the first place; but he insisted that ASO in the gear oil would be of great benefit................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Nogbad- thanks for the bit on roller bearings. I learn something new every day. Anawroki- with regards to Guzzi and valves- looser is almost always better. If warm idle is poor, or it continues to cough or sputter (particularly after high speed decellaration), then the valves are too tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Shockproof Heavy has EP rating of 250 - already way higher than conventional 90W w/ moly added. Any comments? 52237[/snapback] Keith, as I pointed out here way back when - after researching it (couldn't take the time to find my post just now - sorry), Redline Shockproof has properties entirely unlike other lubes, including other synthetics. You'll notice that Redline claims that Shockproof Heavy can be rated as high as 75W250 gear oil, but in fact it has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 75W90. After running it for over a year and 10K+ miles, I believe it's just what the MD ordered for both the straight-cut 6-speed trans & the bevel drive. Redline ealso doesn't specify any replacement mileage at all in many of their products. I've put over 100K mi. on manual transmissions in several cars using their MTL lube. After 100K mi, it comes out looking identical to the way it went in...!? I'm convinced this is truly different stuff. No synthetic gear lube that I know of needs a moly additive in the bevel box. BTW, I noticed Pete Roper's comment on the sight & sound of your "T3 hybrid" on wildguzzi. I consider this high praise indeed, considering the source. Rgds., Ratchethack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Just done same. Man that's thick sticky stuff. Their tech dept said not to bother with adding moly to bevel box as it is used to give normal EP90 oil extra EP rating. Says Shockproof Heavy has EP rating of 250 - already way higher than conventional 90W w/ moly added. Any comments? I'm also hoping, being so thick may alleviate the gearbox weep... KB 52237[/snapback] Is there somewhere local you can get his stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Is there somewhere local you can get his stuff? 52274[/snapback] Try emailing for local stockists. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now