Steve G. Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 No Worries Pete. I was giving you a bit of a erib as well. Ciao, Steve G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Jeez Dave, if all you want is to save weight, a mere $1,164.44 USD will get you an entire rear frame section for a V11 Sport fabricated out of aluminum. aluminum 1.4kg. steel 4.6kg 56873[/snapback] Will since I am still apparently living in the sixties, I am only comfortable paying about $10/ Ounce. for unsprung(sinsemilla) and $5/ounce sprung. The Aluminum subframe only saves about 112 ounces, so I think it is only worth about $560. However if someone builds a swing arm that save 112 ounces for about $1120 USD, I may be willing to shell out some $$$$$$$$$. Dig these ceramic pipes: Only problem is that they would have to be ordered from Shanghai... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 ...I spent a whole afternoon in detention in primary school for using the word in an essay to describe my geography teacher. She was a miserable old shag-nasty...etc.... Wonder what you'd've got if you told her how you really felt? i think this little tale explains a lot tho.... & now we all suffer cos of the sins visited on the innocent little Roper by this thoughtless, uncaring woman. If only she knew the demons she was fostering .... I sometimes fantasise what I would do if I ran into some of the specimens who made my life a misery when i knew no better than to fear them. they'd be old & decrepit but somehow I can never bring myself to kick their crutches away... On a totally unrelated subject, & concerning my Moto Guzzi V11: I grow weary of the innacuracies in timing inherent in the drive chain system of valve actuation. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket gear set for the bike? Thanks in advance. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 On a totally unrelated subject, & concerning my Moto Guzzi V11: I grow weary of the innacuracies in timing inherent in the drive chain system of valve actuation. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket gear set for the bike? Thanks in advance. KB 56880[/snapback] ROFL!!!!! 10 out of 10!!!!!! So what's the go Keith? Is this one of those 'Lets just see how much glycerine I have to add to this pot of nitric acid to make it smoke?' Jobs. Give the man a BIG cigar. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 .... see how much glycerine I have to add to this pot of nitric acid to make it smoke?..... ...an incidental benefit of timing gears might be to prevent sludge trap plug winding itself into crank by packing space full of alu powder??? ...fraid this thread's strayed ... To steer us back....I'm gonna make another wheel spacer! But this time I'll prove I'm as good as any wombat!. If we do the deal, fitting Goran's wheels will be the opportunity to sort it. ...& Dave, Ratchet, Jason, don't let that old curmudgeon Roper deflect us from our pursuit of V11 perfection....he just doesn't realise what finely balanced instruments the V11 range of Guzzis are....I mean - can you take seriously a man whose gearbox hasn't got any gears in it.... KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Eh? Whaddaya mean, oil? 56858[/snapback] Well, might as well use it if you've got some. But if there's none handy, don't bother. Same principle when it comes to giving the tyres a lick of shoe polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 Jeez Dave, if all you want is to save weight, a mere $1,164.44 USD will get you an entire rear frame section for a V11 Sport fabricated out of aluminum. aluminum 1.4kg. steel 4.6kg 56873[/snapback] That's all very well, but what does the wood parquet weigh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 I grow weary of the innacuracies in timing inherent in the drive chain system of valve actuation. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket gear set for the bike?Thanks in advance. KB 56880[/snapback] You've asked that here before – and you were ignored then too. Why keep coming back for more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 ...Why keep coming back for more?... I have a victim complex I need to feed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nose2wind Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 The bearing is 6204 sealed bearing with dimensions of 20x47x14NAPA part number is 6204-2RSJ SKF 6204-2RSI or SKF 6204-2RSH or SKF 6204-2RSL The SKF 6204-2RSL is for lower friction The SKF 6204-2RS is for better seal The SKF 6204-2RSI may be outdated, but is probably most common. I think the NAPA is an SKF 6204-2RSI Anybody know how to get the bearing out??? 55786[/snapback] Thanks for the info, I have found a completely dry rusted bearing on the brake side. This should help. I assume you just need to remove the circlip etc.. Any tricks? TIA, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 There are a number of threads with info, tips & tricks concerning removal of the bearings. See if they turn up in a search & if not, I'm sure someone will find them quickly enough. But what do you mean about a dry and rusted bearing on the brake side? The wheel bearing? The wheel bearings are fairly easy to get out. It's the little roller bearing on the other side that can be a real pain and it's usually the one that is dry and rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nose2wind Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 There are a number of threads with info, tips & tricks concerning removal of the bearings. See if they turn up in a search & if not, I'm sure someone will find them quickly enough. But what do you mean about a dry and rusted bearing on the brake side? The wheel bearing?The wheel bearings are fairly easy to get out. It's the little roller bearing on the other side that can be a real pain and it's usually the one that is dry and rusty. 87304[/snapback] It is the rear wheel bearing on the outer left or brake side of the wheel. It looks like a circlip holds a long tube in the wheel and the bearings are inside this tube. Can you somehow remove the bearings without removing the tube? I will search for an answer. TIA dv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nose2wind Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 The wheel bearings are fairly easy to get out I searched for info on removal of the rear left outer wheel bearing and could not find any. Could still use some help. I don't see how you can tap the bearings out from the inside with the tube spacer in the way. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 The wheel bearings are fairly easy to get outI searched for info on removal of the rear left outer wheel bearing and could not find any. Could still use some help. I don't see how you can tap the bearings out from the inside with the tube spacer in the way. Any suggestions? 87319[/snapback] Quick reply – yes bearings tap out. There is definitely info here. I'll give fuller reply or find the links later when I get a bit of time. Good luck. PS – I take it then that you mean the surface just looks rusty? Or did you mean that the axle is dry and rusty on the surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nose2wind Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Quick reply – yes bearings tap out. There is definitely info here. I'll give fuller reply or find the links later when I get a bit of time. Good luck. PS – I take it then that you mean the surface just looks rusty? Or did you mean that the axle is dry and rusty on the surface? 87383[/snapback] The washer like seal had disconnected from the bearing and you can see into the bearing. There are several balls missing and what is left is completely dry and rusty. I noticed this 300 miles from home when riding. I could feel a whoble when riding and a thunk! thunk! noise. I had to call for a rescue. I felt it was to dangerous to ride and would further damage the bike. I noticed the bearing was made in France! Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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