Admin Jaap Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Ceramic rotors only work when really hot, or was that the carbon F1/MotoGP stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 But if ever you consider to upgrade the calipers to the newer 4 pad version, then you need another one( they fit now to), because the floaters have to be more inside for that. STX73D How much do I need the 4-pad version calipers? I know that's subjective, but hell... gimme a subjective answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 well the 4 pad ones, I had them, made not much difference with my radial brakes. The 4 pad calipers can be found on ebay often. used on the 999, some other sport ducs and aprilias. New they are cheap from ducati performance in a set, with a brakeline, that you only can use with clipons. But much cheaper as sold seperate. I think there is an article on guzzitech about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KeS Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 How much do I need the 4-pad version calipers? I know that's subjective, but hell... gimme a subjective answer Do your current brakes have the capability of locking the front wheel at your maximum projected speed? If so, you don't *need* anything else. Slowing the rotor to a halt is the maximum effort performance for brakes. They can't be "stronger" than that. They can be more fade-resistant. They can offer better feel/responsiveness. They can be lighter. That's about it. Braking distances on modern vehicles are constrained by tire performance and vehicle design. What you can do to improve brakes for *street* use (non-fade conditions) is pretty limited and centers largely around feel/control. KeS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Do your current brakes have the capability of locking the front wheel at your maximum projected speed? If so, you don't *need* anything else. Slowing the rotor to a halt is the maximum effort performance for brakes. They can't be "stronger" than that. They can be more fade-resistant. They can offer better feel/responsiveness. They can be lighter. That's about it. Braking distances on modern vehicles are constrained by tire performance and vehicle design. What you can do to improve brakes for *street* use (non-fade conditions) is pretty limited and centers largely around feel/control. KeS Well said, KeS. But y'er spoiling all the fun. What sells the high-dollar go-faster gear, pretty race-track bling, and eye candy gizmos to their largest market -- the mechano-jewelry officianados -- has next to nothing to do with real-world practicality on the road. But to each his own. . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KeS Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Well said, KeS. But y'er spoiling all the fun. What sells the high-dollar go-faster gear, pretty race-track bling, and eye candy gizmos to their largest market -- the mechano-jewelry officianados -- has next to nothing to do with real-world practicality on the road. But to each his own. . . . . Sorry! What I meant to say was "you HAVE to buy all that stuff RIGHT NOW!!! Or you're gonna die!". That better? I deal with this on the car side all the time - people get really confused about brakes and braking for some reason - probably because the way they're used in racing is so dramatically different than on the street. KeS "If your engine fails, the worst thing that can happen is that you lose the race. If your brakes fail, the BEST thing that can happen is that you lose the race." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 I'm with KeS - Blimey - my stock brakes (ferodo pads) stop pretty good. I'm more worried bout the tyre. What ya'll doing with these things? KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gh67 Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 As Paul mentioned, Todd wrote a good article on Brembo brakes and posted in at Guzzitech. It's a little dated but gives you a good idea of the different tiers of brakes. http://www.guzzitech.com/Brembo-Upgrades-Todd_E.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 & what about this theory that you're a better rider if you don't use your brakes anyway? For the life of me I can't remember what it's called, Crash or, no, something else... I think it's largely a theory for Americans. Prob. something to do with Keith Code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 & what about this theory that you're a better rider if you don't use your brakes anyway? For the life of me I can't remember what it's called, Crash or, no, something else... I think it's largely a theory for Americans. Prob. something to do with Keith Code. Dunno about it , though as far as I remember from a nice article in Motorcyclist or the Sprot Rider magazine, Freddie Spencer was teaching in his school the art of being a 'smooth' driver. A very informative and recomended book is Nick's Ienatch 'Sport Riding Techniques Being smooth on braking and throtle (especially in and out of corners) is the key on perfect street riding that's what I have understood and exercise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 & what about this theory that you're a better rider if you don't use your brakes anyway? For the life of me I can't remember what it's called, Crash or, no, something else... I think it's largely a theory for Americans. Prob. something to do with Keith Code. That does ring a bell... something I was reading recently in fact. The guy that wrote it talks about how he and a bunch of guys used to race downhill with the engine off, and that taught him not to use the brakes because it just bled off speed. It might have been Code, I'm not sure. EDIT - OH, I think it was on the B.A.R.F. site (Bay Area Riders Forum), and I think it WAS Keith Code, posting in a thread that was set up to ask him questions. I'll see if I can dig it up. EDIT2 "Coasting Races" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbiekb Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I have the Braketech USA fully floating Rotors which i had put on after my stock Rotors warped with 300 miles on the bike. I now have about 11K on the bike and have no real negative feedback on the rotors other than that when i had them put on, I was under the impression that I wsas going to get real "monster" brakes that would allow me to one finger brake. WRONG !!! I'm actually going to pull these off of my V11 and replace my entire front braking system with the same Brembo System that Todd Eagan has on his V11-powered Jackal. His brakes are true one finger operation with a great deal of "feel", very impressive when you consider that his Jackal is heavier than our stock V11's. I'm going to put the Braketech Rotors onto a GT1100 project that i'm going to start this winter. If I could have done this again from the beginning i'd have bought the brembo system from Todd to begin with and saved the fuss. You can contact him at todd@guzzitech.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbiekb Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 As an aside and a wee bit of flames to the fire of "how to use the brakes" discussion. I have recently had the fortune to go group riding with the socal folks. I noted two things from those rides that have really improved my riding past the point where I was at when I first left Europe to move to the States and got lazy. Firstly the guys who are truly fast, do so without expending anywhere near the effort that others do in trying to keep up. It's greater skill, much better vision and a more relaxed posture on the bike. When Eagan pulls away from the group with a passenger on the back, he does so smoothly and without drama, its pretty crazy to watch as you just feel like whatever you do , you're personally just going backwards. The only time you know that youre really moving is when you see the showers of sparks that his Lemans is putting off as he grounds out everything. We get to where we're going and he takes of his helmet and is of course still looking fresh whereas myself and Rich R look a bit the worse for wear. 20 minutes later the rest of the folks show up, each riding at his or her own pace. Secondly both of the quick and smooth guys that i have ridden with trail brake their guzzis like crazy. After one spirited Malibu Canyons ride , Todd's rear brake was glowing blue. I saw the same behaviour from Rich R's riding style when we were blasting through hwy 243. I kept waiting for him to start grinding his saddlebags as they precariously swung to within a 1/2" of the ground consistantly on every corner. He must have a Jedi mindsense for where not to lean the bike so as to damage the bags or something! Using the rear brake up to the Apex really settles the bikes down and helps maintain posture. I was a bit sceptical at first but quickly saw the error of my ways, it feels like so much more planted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Corsa Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 How about these rotors that the new 1200S have? What are they anyways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 Secondly both of the quick and smooth guys that i have ridden with trail brake their guzzis like crazy. After one spirited Malibu Canyons ride , Todd's rear brake was glowing blue. ... Using the rear brake up to the Apex really settles the bikes down and helps maintain posture. I was a bit sceptical at first but quickly saw the error of my ways, it feels like so much more planted. From what I understand, trail-braking just means braking farther into the corner. It lets you make a later apex. Using the *rear* brake to settle the bike, I'm skeptical about, since the whole point of settling a bike in a corner is about transfering the weight to the front contact patch. OR am I missing what you're saying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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