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Let's talk... Cold Starting !


Crooz

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Although I'm not sure why it helps but if I cycle the kill switch 3 or 4 times before hitting the starter button the bike will fire up right away.

 

I do the same if its been sitting for a few weeks or more. I'll cycle the fuel pump a few times until I hear it "burp" the last bit of extra air out. Usually starts right up after that.

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My fast idle will take it all the way up to racing speed. Red line – as I remember.

If you're only getting a minute little movement /difference in revs – that can't be right?

Ah. Looking at photos of springs for the seat-latch thread has reminded me that I adjusted the fast idle mech, when I swapped over springs, so that it would go through the full rev range – not for any worthwhile reason other than – just because it could.

 

So maybe fast idle doesn't normally give a massive increase (and it doesn't need to), nevertheless, you should be able to get a reasonable lift from it. On mine as standard (er, it may have slipped through the Quality Control With Excess Slack department) the fast idle cam made limited (and not even immediate) contact with the accelerator pin – until things were adjusted.

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Guest Gary Cheek

I hate to ask but does anyone believe that using a synthetic motor oil such as castrol will protect the engine at startup in cold weather? I know the marketing bs would have you believe that to be true but I wonder.. :glare:

 

 

 

 

I would say something at this point, if oil weren't the subject. :doh:

OK , I'll risk it. Yes a good synthetic can prove benficial at startup. Castrol however is not one of the better synthetics. The correct grade (viscosity) for the operating temp is more important than Dino or syntho from what I have seen. Long, idling "warm-ups" do more harm than good. Get on the road and ride fairly easy till well warmed up. Don't over-rev and don't lug. Good clean oil of the correct grade will do it's part. The diff between Types is minimal compared to the other factors.

 

That should "startup" something!

 

BTW

Thwhitaker, From what I understand, cycling the kill button re-sets the computer. That is probably what is doing the trick for you. I think I read that in Guzziology back in the old days.

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Mine doesn't seem to work either.Can't move it at all.I would ass-ume that there should be some play like a standard choke cable.Haven't had a chance to investigate further as it starts fine even in cooler weather.Broken cable?Is this a common problem?

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You should be able to look at the right side throttle linkage and see movement when you engage the high idle lever by the left grip .

 

If not, perhaps the cable needs a good juicing . I like BreakFree CLP to penetrate the housing from above and leave Teflon behind.

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Daaaayummm: Gary and I are in perfect agreement, for once.

:drink:

 

Eschew the yak fat in cold weather. After all, yak fat comes only in 20w-50 grades or thicker. FWIW, I hear Pete Roper is working on breeding (and I do mean personally) a new "Kobe" yak that once it reaches puberty is massaged each night and fed a beer before bedtime and as a result produces yak fat of a new and thinner grade. This is the tru secret to payng his new yacht, which is already under construction . . .

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You should be able to look at the right side throttle linkage and see movement when you engage the high idle lever on the right grip .

 

If not, perhaps the cable needs a good juicing . I like BreakFree CLP to penetrate the housing from above and leave Teflon behind.

Hi docc,

You do mean the lever on the Left clip-on ,right?It seems to be more resistance than a stuck cable.I'll post results when I get a chance to investigate further.

Thanks,

MZ

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Hi docc,

You do mean the lever on the Left clip-on ,right?It seems to be more resistance than a stuck cable.I'll post results when I get a chance to investigate further.

Thanks,

MZ

 

 

:doh: . . . true, I do. I've edited that post. Thanks.

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