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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/18/2019 in all areas

  1. Hi, I still get frequent requests for the latest V11 BIN. During the last 2 years my activities have moved on to other bikes, Guzzi Jackal, Norge 1200 2V, Aprilia Mana GT and Aprilia RST 1000 Futurua. So I didn't have the time and inclination to do further work on the V11 BIN. This will likely change, as I plan do some work on my V11 (suspension, cylinder head porting, valve & valve guides, valve timing, ...) during this winter. Also the experience gained since scrapping the unreliable and error prone Innovate LM2s and moving on to the Zeitronix ZT-2s plus a enhanced set of software tools (programmed by Beard) have led to better data logging and analysis quality. If I get usable results for the V11, I'll share them with you. In the meantime the V11 BIN can be downloaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e7MMuO6vrUZGFfmkCtL3zsW1qeS6uDgY My recommendation for the basic setup, which is tightly linked to the BIN, is: - CO trim set to 0 (using GuzziDiag or directly changing the EEPROM value) - Both bypass screws completely closed (I could have built the BIN and fuel values with opened screws, but this would have introduced an additional error source. My half turn open is likely different from your half turn open. Completely closed is rather unequivocal in comparison). - TPS baseline set to 157mV (The 150mV found in the service manual and many other places in the internet are wrong, the Marelli or Guzzi engineers had rounding errors in their calc. 7mV are not much, but why not do it correctly if setting it anyways) - Idle sync using the two throttle stop screws (I've explained the reason several times already. The play in the diverse parts of the throttle opening and the spring push (throttle closed) versus cable pull (throttle open) operation makes this the only way to get a sync at idle as perfect as possible. While my V11 is mostly stock, I introduced several changes. One is the bell shaped opening of the intake snorkels, another one is the rework of the throttle butterfly valves and their shafts. These, and the TI cans I'm using, have increased airflow thru the engine. Meaning that bikes which do not have a similar airflow or, for example, have the airbox removed (very bad decision), will run richer than required. If you believe this is the case, just reduce the left cylinder fuel values in small steps until you are satisfied. DO NOT change the right cylinder fuel values or you will loose the biggest advantage of the BIN, which is synchronized Lambda/AFR values across the cylinders. Cheers Meinolf
    3 points
  2. Was wondering if any one might know of the small rear seat pad in the carbon covering for the V-11 that might be had in good or like new condition. Thx in advance.
    1 point
  3. Pressure is typically measured relative to something. The nipple being open to atmo means that the fuel pressure it maintains is relative to atmospheric pressure. A cool example of this is; I have a cool liquid filled tire pressure gauge. I mainly use it for the Jeep. When we travel for our Jeep trips we often end up at a much higher altitude. If you don't "burp" the gauge it will read noticeably wrong. As I recall it reads low when you are at a much higher elevation if you don't burp it to relieve the excess pressure inside the gauge. Most gauges are vented to the atmosphere, but a liquid filled gauge typically has a rubber plug that keeps the liquid in. If atmospheric pressure has dramatically changed, like if you go from 500 ft above sea level to 5 or 6 thousand feet above sea level or more, you need to pull the plug enough to let the pressure in the gauge equalize with the pressure outside the gauge. The have been attempts to connect that nipple to the intake manifolds (to the vacuum port(s) there), but while that idea might sound good on paper it never seemed to work well in practice.
    1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. I am using Meinolf's #90 map for the 15M V11 sport. I think that is his most recent. This is the info he sent along with the map... The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is: - TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed - Both bypass screws completely closed - CO trim set to 0 - Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws - Running sync as usual Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging. Attachments area
    1 point
  6. It was good to meet and talk with you guys! And it was a good excuse for a little ride as well.
    1 point
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  8. A man after a silver RedFrame . . . ("Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if we're really crazy . . ." )
    1 point
  9. I'm a big fan of MicroBlue. 85 LM1000 build Photos
    1 point
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