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Hello all. I am a 62 year old norwegian guy, bought my V11 Rosso Mandello from Germany this spring, very pleased so far😀 It is not my first Moto Guzzi, my first was a Lario back in 85, and after that two Le Mans 850 and a Le Mans 1000. After some years with Ducati (St4 and Multistrada 1200) I am back to Guzzi, feels great 👍😀. This is a fantastic forum, a lot of clever people👍 Jens Martin

A few folks will ride out to Giddings this Sunday to meet there around noon at Outlaws BBQ. Getting to Snow's up in Lexington just up the road would mean standing in line for 3 hours, so we're opting for a different place, but we might ride up to Lexington after lunch before heading home.Will be a mix of Guzzi, BMW, Yamaha and maybe a few others...If anyone wants to join, please come out.

I use the Becker on the red frame and RC/NC with no issues. Cheers Tom.

I have not met the owner, but I know that he is technically skilled and has had his California also supercharged earlier. But I have seen this Centauro at the previous owner & builder. "Power-wheelies were always at hand", I remember him quoting. He has also a blog, but in Finnish (google translate helps...). http://www.motomatti.fi/search?q=centauro Here are some lines of that blog: " Max constant boost pressure approx. 0.25 bar, momentary 1.7 bar. Exhaust pipe diameter 38 mm. · Footpeg- and pedal transfer kit, rear fender (carbon fiber) self-made · Ride Height adjustment, stepless, rear frame made of carbon fiber/steel structure, self - made · Rear cover, carbon fiber, design and structure, own design, seat has a carbon fiber frame, covering self-made · Marchesini rims, polished · Charging controller and audible signals moved to be located under the headlight, headlight raised, own design · Battery transferred to a separate housing behind the gearbox, housing made of carbon fiber, self-made · Mirrors at handlebar ends, normal accessory, exhaust system partly original, partly self-made · Mechanical supercharger Eaton M24, mounted to the left side of the motor, belt drive from the crankshaft, transmission approx. 2x · Pressure piping and pressure vessel, self-made, carbon fiber · Intake bodies original but with two pairs of nozzles (other pair from Ducati 996) · Cast pressure-resistant hoses from urethane for the intake bodies · Second injectors and their second ecu with pressure- and motor rpm -detection, connectors, relays and fuses MTA, waterproof · Display for the lambda value in additional instrument panel, instrument panel self-made, splash water-proof, in the same panel also a boost pressure gauge · Re-cirulation valve Forge, adjustable, temperature gauge for the charged air · Vacuum gauge, measures suction duct pressure " https://ibb.co/pXJGTyp https://ibb.co/MsLgZNk

Amazon will ship the barbed fittings, "Brass Fitting Connector Metric M6-1 Male to Barb Fit Hose ID 6mm 2pcs" currently $7.69 for the pair. I have the modified zerk fittings but they are prone to leaking on my setup. Canola cooking oil works fine too in 3/16" hose. If you're in a hurry just spit a mouthful into yer hose & go - no bubbles either.

On the 98 computer box there is a trim dial in the housing, may be covered by a plug. If someone messed with that the ride ability can really suffer. About 1/4 turn in the wrong direction can make it buck stutter or seam like your running out of gas. It should run ok even if the TPS is at 133 but if you can't get it to the 157 number maybe your base setting is wrong. Did you set TPS with both throttle stops fully out? you can get the Fuel Injection supplement at thisoldtractor.com which can show you how to read fault codes that can be flashed on a small red LED usually under a side cover or near the battery. On the cal 1100 the red light was on the dash. one other thought and easy to check. The crank position sensor (right side of bell housing) can accumulate "swarf" pull it out and clean that off, there might be a shim or two under the flange so don't loose that.

Guzzidiag isn't designed to work with the MYecu as far as I know. Have you contacted Cliff Jeffries? I have a Myecu and it has it's own stand alone communications system. Ciao

Yup! There's been a low mileage, "minty" one for sale locally all summer, I keep praying that someone will buy it before I do something stupid, lol.

Cash1000, you could try hand cleaner. I have the Supercheap SCA branded stuff. Used successfully on painted alloy wheels that were black with brake dust. took a while with a toothbrush but eventually removed all the crud. It has a bit of gritty material in it so shouldn't be used on bare metal but is OK on painted surfaces. Rob

It's easy to remove the broken bolts to the rotors if you have a mig welder, just place a 8mm washer or nut over the broken bolt and weld a bead to fill the hole (try not to over heat it). The heat usually is enough to release the locktite and can be removed easily unless it was cross threaded. I have done a few over the years this way.

Nope.. I have some experience with Loctite..

I got a v11 Sport in Burgundy purple in 2010, imported from the UK. In 2013 i was offered a hd late shovel and couldn't resist it. But it was like a rodeo to me. For more commuting i switched to a Norge, which was a good bike. Next up was a Cali Stone, when the need to commute was gone. But main thing: every time my buddy drove behind me he just said:" it's just not the same . I miss the deep sound.". I knew he was right and in the back of my mind a little voice kept yelling: " come on, i know you want to....". The voice won.

Yes, they are 6mm Buy a couple of straight 6mm grease nipples, zerts or whatever you call them. Grind the back end a little so the spring and ball pop out. You might be able to do that with a drill or file but mine were really hard. Just a side note, plastic tubing will get soft and drop off once heated up, try to use some rubber hose for the last few inches or wire the plastic tube in place. If you are making your own manometer the attached may help, Use something like oil that won't damage the engine if it's sucked in. I found 30 oil has about the right damping. Dip one end into the oil bottle and suck it from the bottle into the tube until the straight section is about half full If you get air bubbles in the oil suck on one side then the other the air quickly works it's way out Roy Carb Sync Tool.pdf

Easy, place a bucket full of solvent large enough to contain the entire barrel, lean the bike over until the barrel is inverted in the bucket, leave overnight, rinse and repeat for the other side. Please send pics.