po18guy

Rarest SBF heads(?) the "ill-fated" '68 tunnel port 302 - just before the Boss 302 hit the scene. Mighta worked for Trans-Am, but bad for the street. Lots more known about the SBF than a few years ago. What I do remember is to get a billet oil pump drive shaft. I have seen the OEM hex shafts spun like a barber pole.

At least it wasn't on an Airbus where each pilot hides his controls from the other.

I thought you flew a Stearman over and back??? They're really fun over the Rockies.

OK, cross-plane V8 raised here. Pretty decent audio of a deTomaso Pantera having some fun and excitement at Monza.

Nah. None of those features do much for me. But dude... IT'S GOT A HEMI!!!

Cast manifolds probably work without cracking because in-line 6s and V12 engine have 'perfect' balance. And Matra probably owned a foundry.

Could it be the angle of the clipons? I know that some wrists and hands are not compatible with certain angles of drop and sweep. Woodcraft clipons for fixed position Kawasakis, for instance, have a sweep adjustment. A test: Go for a low RPM ride and see if it is vibes or wrist angle.

We'll see how it plays out, but I would be tempted to buy a bar of stainless that would fill the outer half of the bar, then bore and thread it for the mirrors. Or a bar of pure lead that will slip into the handlebar, bored through with a Tee nut on the far end to retain the mirror bolt. Due to its softness, it would probably obturate (expand) sufficiently from the torque of the mirror bolt to lock inside the bar.

Thank you. I have not ridden a clipon equipped V11. There is undoubtedly a difference in felt vibration between the bar styles: shorter and solidly mounted vs. longer and rubber-mounted. It requires some pondering of the physics involved to determine which style vibrates more unacceptably, as to frequency and amplitude of vibration. Are we discussing band-aids here? A good painstaking tune-up might just render all of this moot.

I had to fabricate the internal wedge mounts for the mirrors I bought. I obtained some Delrin stock and bored, angle cut and fit them. Bar ends to a certain degree, are universal. A pair linked above are $102 USD, quite a chunk, but they are steel powdercoated black and listed for the V11. But, all of this traces directly back to the tune of the engine, since the reciprocating/rotating mass is unchanging. Valve adjustment to a degree, but throttle plate synch (at cruising RPM range) to a much greater degree will affect the smoothness of which the engine is capable. First things first they say, and these drop out of perfect tune fairly easily.

Perhaps the only place on a V11 where a few grams actually make a difference.

So, for the sake of discussion, I weighed the OEM bar ends with hardware and my current Ken Sean bar-end mirror with approximate mounting hardware. OEM bar end w/bolt and brass wedges: 421 grams Ken Sean rectangular bar end mirror w/hardware: 397 grams. The bar-end mirror is 94.5% of the weight of the OEM bar-end. A potential advantage of the weight being in the form of a mirror at bar's end is that The mirror places the weight further from the focal point of excitation (handlebar clamp), and the dampening effect of airflow on the mirror certainly has some influence on energy dispersion. Of note, the favored Napolean mirrors may very well weigh more than the Ken Sean. Someone else may be able to weigh one complete with hardware for comparison. The major caveat is that the effect I have noted is on the above the triple, rubber-mounted, tapered alloy bars as found on the Ballabio, Cafe Sport, Coppa, Scura and a few others. NOTE: This has not been tested in the Guzzi wind tunnel. Another casualty of Covid.

Did not ride it extensively in stock form. On the motorways, I had to have better mirrors - vibration or not. Thankfully, it may be the combo of rubber-mounted tubular bars and enough weight on the ends of those bars that 4K+ RPM is nice and sweet. The taper of the bars as well may have been engineered to help with vibes. Although somewhat counter-intuitive to me, that taper may just have moved the harmonics higher than the exciting forces.

Right down to the metallurgy! Seriously, 1. Factory mirrors revealed only my shoulders which I know I have. 2. No room for bar ends when more usable mirrors take their place. 3. Being the pragmatist that I am, it all works so I stopped right there. I might just weigh one of each to see the difference in mass, but it is academic at this stage.

The M60 has tracks while the V11 makes tracks.

They're in the spares box now. Came with them, but it seems that the bar-end mirrors have assumed their function.

Reading through the thread, I remember seeing this exact method used on some other paint-mixer bikes. Perhaps a rubber plug driven into the bar to a certain depth and then just fill the void with shot. Easy enough to alter the weight or undo. You want to change the harmonics of the bars at their ends and adding weight is the crude but effective way that even Honda have used. I ride my bike mostly 120kph on the freeway/interstate/motorway and 4K and above is a sweet spot. I have neuropathy in my hands and I would most certainly note any increase if the bars were a problem. The "Occam's Razor" method might be to switch to soft grips (Remember "Grab-On" foam grips in the 80s?) and attach much heavier bar ends. The caveat in my experience is that I have the OEM tapered (28mm > 22mm) high mount alloy bars which possess their own harmonic, plus Ken Sean folding bar-end mirrors (cheap but effective). I did have to fab up some Delrin bar inserts, since those which came with the mirrors were overly soft.

One more suggestion: OURY street grips. They are a block pattern, made of low durometer (soft) rubber. I use them on parallel twins with good effect. Mountain bikers use the MTB version to cushion the shock of dirt riding. Less than $15 on Amazon.

Indeed. Even if engineering does not solve a problem, it can explain it. EDIT: There are aftermarket bar-end makers that make extra heavy weights. This can go a good ways toward slowing the problem. Shorter bars reduce the leverage the vibration has on your hands, and even though solidly mounted, the clipon models of V11 'may' have a certain advantage here. Or may not. I know that my high barred Ballabio is not offensive as to bar vibes - but everyone's experience varies in this regard. I have bar-end mirrors installed, so they essentially replace the weights that were OEN. This is one company which makes heavy, stainless Guzzi weights that might be considered. $102 US/pair, but comfort is as comfort does, eh? http://www.hvmp.com/category-s/50.htm

Rev the engine in neutral and see what the entire bike does. In slow motion, one bar goes up and the other goes down. In that same plane, secondary imbalance wants to shake the bar ends up and down, except at 2X the engine RPM. This video regards the primary/secondary imbalance of twins - parallel twins in this case, but the principles of primary and secondary imbalance are explained. He is preparing a V-twin balance video, but we'll have to wait on that one.

I watched a few videos by speedkar99 on YouTube. He dismantles failed car engines. In particular, Audi and BMW engines are utter engineering and maintenance nightmares.

Pick the most boring and pedestrian of any maker's models and we see they sell a tonne of them. Plain Jane is the safe bet - although they do little to nothing for us true enthusiasts...(ahem!).

The big block was long ago assigned the "tractor" appellation. IMO, the small block should be in a Harbor Freight generator. Sorry, but it has always been underwhelming, from 350cc and onward. A little brother who was never allowed to grow up. IIRC, the last Heron heads used by a major manufacturer was Chev in their 348 and 409, and Mercury in their 383 and 430, late 1950s-mid 1960s. Even though the Heron has flown the head, the engine's goal is to run under the hurdle rather than to jump over it.

Industrial progress in Italy depends on the season of the year. It is always delayed if construction is occurring during strike season.