thumper Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Yes I did remove the swing arm. The job is not that difficult just get the new push rod seals and dont forget the button when you reassemble. Take your time and be sure of the torque settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 dont forget the button when you reassemble. what's the button? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thumper Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Small metal cup (button) the push rod sets in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Does anyone have an old twin-plate clutch hub lyin around? Was hoping I could get pics and measurements of it to compare to the Scura's single plate hub before I order a new one and tool to remove. thanks Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Does anyone have an old twin-plate clutch hub lyin around? Was hoping I could get pics and measurements of it to compare to the Scura's single plate hub before I order a new one and tool to remove. thanks Michael Is the Scura (single plate) clutch hub different to the regular V11Sport (twin plate) hub? I thought they were the same. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 The clutch hub for the Scura single plate clutch is completely different to the one for the twin plater. You'll need the hub and the two shaft o-rings and I'd suggest a new seal as well. Pete Hi Keith, PR says yes,just would like to see pics and measurements to confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldini Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 If the professor says it's different it's most likely different then! Sorry I can't help you with one. KB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Ha,I never doubt the "The Master ". But another member did the same conversion.02 Scura to a Griso twin plate and did not change the hub.No problems and all is well.More of a mystery than a doubt. The hub,tool,nut ,washer are about $200.00 US,so just wanted a look-see before I ordered.Have an email into a (good)dealer but haven't heard back in a week so I figured I would try the unwashed masses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Wasted two months with a supplier playing phone tag and long response times to emails,so went to MI for parts.Should be in a week or two.Have most parts and tools ready to go ,but waiting on a few gaskets,bolts and washers Micha suggested.He believes the new Griso 2 plater hub is the same as Scura. This is what he is sending, 90405367 – rear main seal 95028025 – lock washer 90706233 – input shaft o-ring 90404059 – input seal 12007600 – breather pipe gasket GMS53B-8X25-10.9 – flywheel bolt (6x) GMW93-8 – 8mm schnoor washer (6x) Found a local garage to rent for the rest of the winter with electricity,and nice smooth cee-ment floor .Got a 1 Ton lift from Harbor Freight on sale.Plan on pulling tank and lifting her from above strapped to the spine tomorrow,then down for a few weeks with work and a week+ in Scotland Pics to follow,....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Patient awaiting anesthesia,doctor nervously making first cut into metal of operation he has never performed Plan is to lift rear,with a floor stand,pull wheel,swingarm,driveshaft,tranny as to get in there check/lube swingarm bearings,give driveshaft a proper greasing. Then pull motor from the front put on bench to check and clean up weeps,etc as well as changing clutch. I didnt order any parts for rear end.What should I replace while in there? The rear wheel bearings were replaced about 1K ago so those should be good.Swingarm,Dshaft parts I should change?Garage is only a rented one for a few months so would be good to get to any maintenance items while I got her on a lift! Thanks Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Make sure she is stable side-to side while you disassemble. Also, I would start by removing the exhaust system (put some neversieze on the exhaust flange studs). Grease and clean the driveshaft ujoints while you have them accessible, but still put a piece of cardboard around them when you put it back together (they fling grease out....) You could grease the cush drive also- heat the bolts holding the wheel flange before trying to remove them; they have locktite on them and the bolts are made of an extra-soft alloy, something between butter and wet clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Pull the tank, the exhaust, the airbox, and anything else thats not screwed on too tightly before you even take the swingarm off. The less parts on your bike the better. If it aint on there you cant scratch it, drop it, or catch it on fire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Thanks for the advice guys. The tank,headers,and exhaust are already off.Exhaust came off surprisingly easy. Out of town for a while,so get back to it early April. Once I get a whole day in there ,should quickly get swingarm off and motor out with a help from a friend.Have a floor hoist that can lift from above.So tying to spine and lifting from above should make that easy to "crab the frame" Any more suggestions or tips feel free to chime in. More details and pics to follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 My other suggestion is to check all electrical connections and rubber hoses twice. As you crab the frame, run your hand through the 'center' space that you are creating to make sure you've disconnected all the connecting bits. Maybe have a 2X4 piece of wood on hand in case you have to block something up. Also, if you drip oil, then aluminum foil makes a handy, disposable, readily-formable funnel. Ask me how I know....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rex007can Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 This thread reminds me of the first time I did the clutch job on my first 1977 R80/7 5 years ago. Tons of good advice. Lots of material to read, making sure I had all the right parts and info needed. In the end, turned out it's really just all nuts and bolts...you'll probably find it was easier than you anticipated. Wax on... wax off... You'll probably be just fine. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now