docc Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 You should be able to use any hot wire that doesn't have a big load on it. I would want it switched by the ignition. The circuit that powers the gauge lights, city light, taillight and license light looks good, not too much load on it. It goes through 2 fuses and the ignition switch and about a mile of wiring so you would have to check the voltage drop. I will post a thread on the install when the thing shows up from the UK. I love this! Matches my 2nd Generation Go_Winkie . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leroysch Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 I have one of these...or something very similar...on the 916. Unobtrusive, and..as a side benefit....can verify the bike's radiator fan is functional when it changes from green or amber at idle to a flashing red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Wayne Orwig had a nice collection of schematics for electronical gadgets on his now sadly defunct website. I picked myself one for a voltage indication bi-colour LED, going from red over orange to green. Assuming the regulator is a quite digital unit, say it either works or not, the light should be red engine off and light orange/green engine running. Bright green indicates above 15V, cooking the battery, staying red indicates no charge, draining the battery. Nice gadget and enhancement to my speedo scale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbolesaz Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Pulled the tank to have a look at the regualtor wiring. There was only one (I assume the stock) ground on the regulator bolt. But the wiring has no sign of overheat. So, I'm thinking I need a new regulator. Should I go stock or Electrosport ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Bbolesaz said During a night ride the lights got extra bright on a number of occasions I'm a little puzzled as the Voltage reference is taken from the headlight circuit after the relay, it should be quite stable even if the battery isn't Has your bike been modified with headlight relays fed direct from the battery? Pulled the tank to have a look at the regualtor wiring. There was only one (I assume the stock) ground on the regulator bolt. But the wiring has no sign of overheat. So, I'm thinking I need a new regulator. Should I go stock or Electrosport ? The normal path is through the chassis to regulator case, if it has to rely on that long wire all the way back to battery Negative you will lose some Voltage. I would try adding a ground it may solve your problem perhaps it has an intermittent good connection causing the lights to go brighter. You could also try a wire direct from the battery to the regulators Black wire thus eliminating the normal Voltage reference to see if that regulates better but you won't be able to leave it that way (I have used that trick a couple of times on a trip to fix a non charging bike) I went with a direct connected Electrosport ESR510 to eliminate the flakey headlight circuit voltage reference The early ones like my 2001 were particularly bad with 2 relays in series, anything from 0.5 - 1.5 Volt You can measure that directly from Battery + to the regulators black wire, measure it first then try re-seating the headlight and start relays. I now have to disconnect the battery over winter because the Electrosport has a small current drain. Woe betide if I forget to hook it back up, next thing I have a flat battery. Corytrevor is correct there is no need for a supplemental ground with most after-market regulators as the internal components are connected to a dedicated ground wire not the case. BTW our spine frames share charging with the EVs, Jackals etc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 All of the above clearly speaks for the OEM Ducati Energia unit. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbolesaz Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Checked the prices for stock and Electrosport. Electrosport ESR515 (stock copy version) on order. I was surprised to not see star washers where the eyelet of the ground wire is bolted in with the regulator case. A star washer between the case and eyelet will ensure a good electrical connection there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 *Star* washers are good medicine for [ground] connections. And Vaseline® (or your favorite generic petroleum jelly). Check, also, your 30 amp "charging/regulator" fuse (#3) for signs of heat damage, burning, melting or otherwise not sustaining the current load. As well as the main gearbox case ground and battery terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbolesaz Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Done and done. All looks well. I suspect I had an internal intermittent failure in the now 15yr. old Duck regulator. The regulator case had a lot of corrosion on the surface that might have been interfering with the ground connection, hence star washer. However, if the ground was intermittent, I wouldn't have had overvoltage as a symptom and I would have had a undercharged battery, which I didn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Checked the prices for stock and Electrosport. Electrosport ESR515 (stock copy version) on order. I was surprised to not see star washers where the eyelet of the ground wire is bolted in with the regulator case. A star washer between the case and eyelet will ensure a good electrical connection there. You must be coming from a Suzuki Intruder, those guys loved their Magic Star Washers HaHa The problem with the ESR525, if I'm not mistaken it still relies on the flakey Voltage Reference I think it needs to be grounded also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 The proper name for these star wahers are : internal , external or internal/external tooth lock washers . I use all three styles . If I am connecting to ground I use at least one washer . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Considered that, but the "less bright" is the normal condition and if it was low voltage, I would have drained the battery long ago. A ride with the voltmeter will clear the issue. And no, AFAIK there is no supplemental ground (yet).No, a bad regulator ground will make the output voltage go high. The regulator tries to maintain 14v between the +VE reference in the lighting circuit and the ground it is connected to. A poor ground means the regulator case floats above 0 volts. I tried to explain it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421Done and done. All looks well. I suspect I had an internal intermittent failure in the now 15yr. old Duck regulator. The regulator case had a lot of corrosion on the surface that might have been interfering with the ground connection, hence star washer. However, if the ground was intermittent, I wouldn't have had overvoltage as a symptom and I would have had a undercharged battery, which I didn't.Before you toss your regulator you need to read this thread. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=2&do=findComment&comment=214421 It is a chore to do this work, but clean bright metal makes good electrical connections. You can't tell if the connection is good unless you disassemble it. Even old star washers can develop corrosion under them, and cease doing their job. Especially if dust, moth guts, and rain collect there. Then you need to abrade, and assemble the connections using a moisture and air excluding grease. I use DC-4, Kiwi_Roy prefers vaseline. Either is better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 I have been suggesting instead of using copper wire and lugs against aluminium regulator and engine case a simple strip of say 16 gauge Aluminium with a hole in each end. This could easily be bent to sit nicely against the frame. I would still use some form of grease between the parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmc28 Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Anyone using the mosfet regulators from places like roadstercycle? That was a common choice for some reason on my other Y2k era bikes that needed the Italian electrics addressed, in one case the Gran Canyon (though grounding was and is still the #1 issue imho). Just curious.... I'm new to the V11, and enjoying the learning here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Anyone using the mosfet regulators from places like roadstercycle? That was a common choice for some reason on my other Y2k era bikes that needed the Italian electrics addressed, in one case the Gran Canyon (though grounding was and is still the #1 issue imho). Just curious.... I'm new to the V11, and enjoying the learning here! HRC_V4 fitted one last year. Maybe he'll chime in with a report . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19382&p=212098 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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