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TIME FOR A DIET?


JRD

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You can certainly tell it's winter giving us crummy weather to ride and too much time to ponder.  With all the previous discussions in the " EXHAUST CROSSOVER" Thread about the benefits of different exhaust systems and cam shaft replacements, has anyone besides Knumbnutz given thought to the performance gains just by putting our bikes on a serious diet?

 

One of the first places to gain performance is reducing the rotating mass starting with the wheels.  Has anyone here checked the difference in weight between our cast wheels and a set of aluminum rims with spokes (disc brake models)? Being shaft drive makes it more difficult but it can be done. My Aprilia has a set of OZ forged wheels that save something like 2-3 lbs. on the front and almost 5-7lbs. on the rear wheel compared to the standard Showa rims.  My pockets arent deep enough to even consider carbon rims.

 

Do you check the difference in weight between the various brand tires?   

 

And the difference between our standard brake rotors and the scalloped/drilled rotors?

 

Working our way up the bike, how about the difference in weight between our standard Showa front forks and a nice set of Ohliins? or even fork tubes off something from Japan, say R-1, GSXR or Kaw?

 

Czzaky- Did you ever weigh you headlight/fairing assembly when you removed it from your LeMans?  What kind of weight saving did you gain by going to just the headlight bucket?  Any weight you can remove from the top of the bike will lower the center of gravity and improve handling and performance.

 

And last but not least, does Jenny Craig ring any bells  :grin:

 

 

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SP838 has put his Sport on a diet. He's drilled out some parts to lighten them and is even thinking about a lighter rear axle.

 

Replacing the original exhaust is probably the easiest way to drop weight.

 

The EBC scalloped rotors I put on the front of my red LeMans weighed less than the Brembos - they have aluminum carriers, where the Brembos use steel. This would be true for the rear as well.

 

I think you can save a few pounds by changing to one of the Lithium batteries, such as Shorai.

 

A red-frame bike could probably drop 5 pounds by using the lighter plastic tail section from a black-framed bike - would take only a little work to mount it.

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A red-frame bike could probably drop 5 pounds by using the lighter plastic tail section from a black-framed bike - would take only a little work to mount it.

 

I didn't know there was a difference.

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A red-frame bike could probably drop 5 pounds by using the lighter plastic tail section from a black-framed bike - would take only a little work to mount it.

 

I didn't know there was a difference.

 

Different materials. Seems that early tails are rotomolded Nylon like the tank, so has some "thickness" in the structure. Later tails are ABS, as I recall ?

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The later tails are very light - nothing but an external shell. The rear subframe is slightly different too - it has tabs for screws to go up from the wheel well, while the early tails have studs molded into them that protrude down through plastic. Consequently, the mudguard/taillight flops around when you remove the tail on the early bikes, but it stays put when you remove the tail from the later bikes. The later one also offers a bit more storage space.

 

You can save 5 more pounds by leaving your tools at home.  :whistle:

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Just been down to the shed and weighed a few bits with my luggage scales so not too accurate.

 

Ex V11 Sport parts:

Seat fairing (01.57.31.35) 5.5 lbs

 

Ex Le Mans parts:

Fairing assy including L & R main panels with airscoops, top and bottom centre panels,windscreen. 5.9lbs.

Fairing mount frame with attach bolts, headlamp adjust mechanism and 'dashboard' panel. 5.2lbs

L & R Side panels 1.1 lbs

Front mudguard 1.7lbs

Fuel tank less filler cap, pump and heatshield. 12.6lbs (heavier than I expected)

 

So in total around 32lbs for the bodywork.

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I was really surprised at how flimsy the black frame tail is compared to the one on my Greenie.  The old one has some road rash on it, I would think the newer ABS version would have broke into many pieces upon a crash or even just a fall.

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Since our engines are pretty much limited to any power gains by their cylinder head design, we can probably optimise it's performance by doing a few little things to maximize engine output. Lighten and balance the crank assembly, Piston skirts, flywheel, and valve train.

Hopefully someone who has actually raced one of these bikes can offer inexpensive suggestions

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Since our engines are pretty much limited to any power gains by their cylinder head design, we can probably optimise it's performance by doing a few little things to maximize engine output. Lighten and balance the crank assembly, Piston skirts, flywheel, and valve train.

Hopefully someone who has actually raced one of these bikes can offer inexpensive suggestions

 

Has anyone actually raced one of these?

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Racing? Inexpensive solutions? 

Not compatible. 

I don't care what you are racing. There is someone else that is racing and has deep pockets. You have to beat him. Sorry, but that's the way the world works.  ;)

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