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My rear wheel hub is worn to the point that the bearing on the drive side of the wheel no longer fits -lock tight green worked for a season but now the bearing fails quickly. Anyone had issues with this fiting? Solutions ie resleeving with smaller OD bearing?

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35 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:

My rear wheel hub is worn to the point that the bearing on the drive side of the wheel no longer fits -lock tight green worked for a season but now the bearing fails quickly. Anyone had issues with this fiting? Solutions ie resleeving with smaller OD bearing?

Probably cheaper to buy a good second hand wheel. If you resleeve you would sleeve it to take the std bearing or bore the wheel hub to take a bearing with the same width and ID but larger OD if there's one available.

Ciao

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These bearings can fail for other reasons common to the V11 . . . (worth checking before replacing the wheel) . . .

 

 

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Thanks Doc,

Questions :Internal wheel bearing spacer length?  112mm ?

and the width of the smaller bearing between the wheel and the drive? 12.5mm ?  

Let me know if I’m missing something

Will be replacing wheel bearings , as I do every year, and the final drive bearing as well as the bushings in the shock/torsion bar

Shaft gets lubed and cleaned every year 3 points- harmonic alignment on factory mark 

Final drive fluid checked out

Cush drive checked out lubricated -splines good all around

Wheel is balanced

Axel nut torqued - past any reading by a gorilla

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Internal spacer length should be 113mm.

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40 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:

Thanks Doc,

Questions :Internal wheel bearing spacer length?  112mm ?

and the width of the smaller bearing between the wheel and the drive? 12.5mm ?  

Let me know if I’m missing something

Will be replacing wheel bearings , as I do every year, and the final drive bearing as well as the bushings in the shock/torsion bar

Shaft gets lubed and cleaned every year 3 points- harmonic alignment on factory mark 

Final drive fluid checked out

Cush drive checked out lubricated -splines good all around

Wheel is balanced

Axel nut torqued - past any reading by a gorilla

You replace wheel bearings every year!!!! no wonder the bearing bores are shot. How many miles do you do annually? 

Ciao 

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32 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:

Sourced another wheel spacer but still need new wheel or wheel hub the inner bearing will just drop in now. 

Thanks to all for your help

Since you have nothing to lose at this point.. try this..

Take your Copper Hammer :grin: and a small prick punch, and put a gazillion punch marks around the ID of the bore. Leave the outer 1/8" unmarred so the bearing will start straight.

Lube the outer race, (Lubriplate is good) and press that bad boy in there. The worse thing that can happen is you will have to sleeve it anyway, and this will probably work.

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1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Since you have nothing to lose at this point.. try this..

Take your Copper Hammer :grin: and a small prick punch, and put a gazillion punch marks around the ID of the bore. Leave the outer 1/8" unmarred so the bearing will start straight.

 

I've done this with success on wheels for a few bikes and used a gap filling locktite on it.

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4 hours ago, Chuck said:

Since you have nothing to lose at this point.. try this..

Take your Copper Hammer :grin: and a small prick punch, and put a gazillion punch marks around the ID of the bore. Leave the outer 1/8" unmarred so the bearing will start straight.

Lube the outer race, (Lubriplate is good) and press that bad boy in there. The worse thing that can happen is you will have to sleeve it anyway, and this will probably work.

Did that on the tonti 3years ago, only 4000m, but still good . 

Cheers tom.

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35 minutes ago, Airtight Garage said:

Thanks for the tip, but how did you know I have a copper hammer?

Because one comes standard in the Guzzi tool kit with every new bike along with a grease gun for the drive shaft fittings, a multimetre for the electrics and a tether to stop the bike floating away if you ever remove the flywheel.

Ciao     

 

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