windchill

Surely this is the ram air intake, which is missing its velocity stack? or the duct for the crotch cooler?

OK, so my lovely MG ti cans still look and sound awesome. The one on the right also still seems to move about when were going, even though its solid as a rock when cold!! To the point: there must be a factory out there somewhere that makes, or perhaps grows, or even mines rubber channel sections to fit around can hangers!! Mine have moved so much they have torn. Where on earth can I get spares from?

No, filter tight. Intermitent fault that I can't seem to chase.

Still throws up error message at 1024x768! HELP

Nope, I've got the usual 9.94 megs!! My pics are way smaller!! NEVER been asked to make anything smaller before : usually the opposite! Looks lie you is correct sir!! Whilst the script says that the global limit is 9.94mb, the arror mesage syas the pics are too big, even at 602kb each!! Last time, I just added and posted!!! Has my Goldmember subscription lapsed perhaps? Reduced the size to used 9.59 of 19+mb!! so should be plenty? Give up!! Good night chapos!

Hmmm!! I've done the usual: "Browse" found the pic, then pressed "Add this attachement", but nothing seems to happen!!

A dyma ni gyfeillion!! Job done!! Just thought you might like to see it on, weldseal and all!! Why can't I post pics any more?

Aaarrrrgh!! Scary new site layout!! Where did that come from? Very pretty though. OK, I took the old bird out for a blast this evening, and the oil light refused to go out properly for about the first five minutes of trying to get off the drive!! After stopping and starting a few times it went off and stayed off. Cold, my "full" level is about 1/4" over top mark to allow for the manual's run it then check method. No powerful acceleration, or anything remotely extrme, just a bumble down the drive to the road. Help!

Critical factors were, if I recall, spring and shaft diametre mismatch, causing binding, thence causing fatigue on the tight L bend, which breaks!! Also worth "dressing" the components with which the spring "interacts". In my gearbox, the metalwork was the usual pressed out finish and quite "sharp".

BTW, using my "lightweight" torquewrench and a degree of very elusive synwir cyffredin, I found that the sump screws were allready set to 8Nm: the bottom end of the suggested 8 - 12 Nm range. Didn't use nut lock on them, I reckoned weld seal would be better given the levels of vibration present (sais gwirion)

Anyone who has fitted one of these: how tight did you find it at the front end of the engine? Mine wouldn't fit without serious surgery to reduce the overall width at the very front end of the mounting brackets. I needed to "gain" almost 3/16" to get it to slide on far enough for the holes in the pan to mate with those on the brackets. Also there is a "block" or "blank" on the bottom of the crank case casting at the front on the RHS (viewed from onboard) against which my pan is tight up.

That sort of fairing, but with twin lights. Like the old Bol d'Or racers of the 70/80s

These are the "mushrooms" I used, from www.lsl-motorradtechnik.de with custome made spacers, and head sliders from Rossopuro, one of out sponsors. Their originals are on the slide show as soon as you click the site.

1937 Foden Timber Tractor - great big gardner 10 litre six cylinder diesel withy a winch on the back. 27mph flat out on the governor at about two million decibels in the cab and brakes only on the back wheels - at 13 stone, I have to stand up to stop her in an hurry!!

Got any pictures? I would dearly like to change the OE half fairing on my LeMans for some sort of twin headlight more "retro" looking item. Anyone got any ideas?

When mine turns over but won't start, its usually the relay for the fuel pump: I wiggle it about a bit, it whirrs into life and off we go!! I have learnt to strt the bike with my lid off, wherever we are, so that I can listen for the whirr before pressing the starter. Sorry if this is completly off track, but it works in gear or in neutral as long as the clutch is pulled in when you hit the button.

Looks interesting

Thanks gents. Orangeokie, where did you get those bar ends?

Having caused myself hand damage playing with a chain drive bike earler this year, I now find the standard Guzzi grips very skinny and hard. I would be interested in suggestions for replacements (larger diametre and softer), and tips on how to do it: the grips feel too rigid to "blow off" with an airgun like I did on my Triumph.

Here we go: a couple of pictures for you. No, don't ask, not Alcoholics Anonymous either, just "springs R us" - second time I think!! Sorrry they aren't very specific to your question, but they might give an idea.

I bought the tail bag and its little rack. As luggaege, they work pretty well together, eve iff its a bit small. Mine is off at the moment while I work out how to get its ironwork (which is VERY crude) to fit in/around the Heath Robinson footrest plates that hold my MGti cans on. As a "sissy bar" the rack is crap: not enough clearence to get your hands around it according to my daughter. I've also got an MG tank bag, which is superbly well made, and very functional.

Aha!! That looks cool.

I actually invested in a small torque wrench a few years ago that goes down to 5Nm! So hand tight and loctite? Thanks for the advice

I am now the proud owner of a shiny black belly pan supplied by Motomecca: stunnigly well made it is too. However, if I have to remove the sump screws to fix, I need to know what to re-torque them to - anyone know?

Thanks for the ideas. Will contact our man uup North. Unfortunately, during theis hot weather, unddrpants stuffed strategically with impact absorbing foam are a bit uncomfortable!! The other alternative is a tank covering, leather stretching beer gut, but my wife, let alone the horse, would not approve!