PJPR01
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Posts posted by PJPR01
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Without a doubt...Gulf livery! If you need any more inspiration for this choice...check out Moto GP! I just printed this out last week in high definition on glossy paper and framed it for a wall with Formula 1 race posters. Spectacular!
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Well, a quick couple of blasts of DeOxit into the switch and for good measure on all 5 of the relays, and voila, the high beam flasher switch is working again! Much cheaper than buying a whole new switching unit!
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7 minutes ago, docc said:
Are the 2002 Scura (and maybe the Tenni) headlamp buckets metal like the early Sports or had they changed to the plastic type used on the LeMans and others?
Docc...it's a hardened black plastic shell, with a metal ring and round rubber ring at the front held in place by a single screw. The bucket has the wiring harness molded into it, so that will be my challenge as I'll have to transfer that, or get a converter that then marries up to the 4 prong on the bike. I think I can make it work, but may require some assembly. At the moment, I have it all wired up using the original bucket, to test all of the lights and features and it's stunningly good (in the garage at least!). The new light also has semi circular orange LED blinkers in the headlamp...nice feature!
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Vielen Dank...that will be the plan next...maybe I'll get lucky and clean the contact and it will work again!
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I may have one available, will know in a few days. I'm replacing my Scura stock headlight with the broken refractor that I've tried gluing several times but it keeps breaking and rattling around inside the headlight. I can't find this a replacement part anywhere unless someone else has some good luck sourcing one?
I've purchased an LEDPERF headlight (Style 4 in Black), got it all wired in - wow, what a difference from the stock dim unit with some additional features, but I need a new headlight bucket to secure the headlight unlike the stock mounting, so I've ordered one from them as well. Once I get all of the wiring transferred over, my stock one may be available for you.
Now I've also reminded myself that I need to figure out why the flasher for high beams doesn't work, while the push button for high beams works just fine. Maybe a fuse or a relay I need to replace for the high beam flasher?
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Hylomar also worked for me to get rid of a persistent but small leak on the fuel sender under the tank that connects to the fuel line...just enough on the threads and on the back of the thermistor sealed it all up...NO leaks!
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Excellent! Thank you!
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About to tackle this slight leak on the right Ohlins at the top in the middle of the silver section inside of the blue nut area, as I have the 8 point tool on order to spin off the larger silver top portion...
I'm getting a slight leak in the middle of the circular silver area inside the blue nut casing, originates right in the center...hopefully it will be obvious which seal has gone bad once I spin it out.
Any concerns about just spinning off the 8 pointed silver section here, anything likely to fly up and be lost in the garage when I open it up? Not really keen on dismantling the whole front end, and the oil that I am seeing is crystal clear also...so not dirty or murky at all. Of course I have no way of knowing how much oil is in the reservoirs I realize.
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Very rarely but occasionally a Givi Windscreen comes up for Griso's....it could be adapted probably to the V11, has a similar, but slightly wider shape...excellent aerodynamics. Let me see if I can find the Givi Model that I have on the Griso, I saw one a couple of months ago for sale...
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Nice milestone today on the speedometer...smooth with all of the fresh fluids! Successful 100 mile run...no leaks!
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13 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
You most certainly did *not* see ESI on the shelf at the auto parts. Well...I always hoped I would, but never have- perhaps in oil country it's possible. Chevron Delo gear oil is common, but it is an entirely different animal than the ESI. Nearly all gear oils use ZDDP as does engine oil (used to anyway) but ESI uses Borate-based chemistry. The ESI, though viscosity-rated, appears to me to be thinner at 85w140 than any off the shelf xxw90 oils. Don't know the current Auto Parts Premium prices for Mobil 1, Lucas, etc.
Here's my last order-
Order #14083
Ship to
Jensen Beach, Florida, 34957, United States
Chevron Delo 85W140 Gear Lubricant ESI 12/1.8# Case
224504319
Brand: Chevron USA
$115.32
Qty: 1
$115.32
Subtotal:
$115.32
Shipping:
$40.00
Sales Tax:
$0.00
Grand total:
$155.32
Payment method:
Braintree (PayPal)
Shipping method:
FedEx ® (Ground) for $40.00
Santie Oil Company
Sorry...let me clarify and be more precise, 85w-140 was on the shelf (Mobil 1 brand), not this Chevron brand. My comment was around the viscosity rating, not the brand.
The price says a case, I presume that's a case of 12 bottles or is the price of 1 bottle $115 bucks?
Mobil 1 75w90 is costing me $20 bucks a quart.
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Thanks Eric.
Very interesting...so even though the standard 75W90 or 80w90 weight is recommended, no concerns about putting in 85W140. Saw that on the shelf at the autoparts store when buying the 75W90 fluid but didn't consider it as an alternative. This seems like for a quart it runs about 50% of the price of Mobil 1 or Lucas Gear Oil, but it's a higher quality?
To be fair I am not hearing any gear noise from the transmission or rear drive, probably because my valves are slightly loose, but I'll keep this as a good reference for the future!
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Now I'm becoming OCD with this and thinking I'll drive 500 miles and then drain and refill all fluids again for transmission and rear drive. Main engine oil I'm not concerned with as that seems to stay pretty clean, but the gearbox / rear drives do seems to get dirty faster. I may have to start doing a fluid change on those every 2 engine oil changes.
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All good...yes, you could do the same...fill it with fresh fluid, or as a better suggestion, fill completely, drive a little bit and drain again. I was too lazy to do that so I just filled and flushed with extra fluid until it came out clear.
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4 minutes ago, docc said:
There is some confusion in the posts referencing the sight glass/ level window on the "rear drive" as this is found on the gearbox.
The rear drive has a "level plug" at the very back of its radius that will overflow when the oil level is full.
Hi Docc...OK thanks for confirming the gearbox item...no issues there.
On the rear drive..do you mean the rubber plug on the axle? I'm not sure what you mean by back of the "radius"..picture perhaps?
Thanks!
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21 hours ago, Twin AH said:
Also just for the record while I had it running in the shop the other day I did pull the plug on the air box air temp sensor and it didn't seem to change anything??
My last recommendation...please connect this bike to Guzzidiag so you can see if there are any stored faults. If not, it's a guessing game.
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11 hours ago, FreyZI said:
I checked on Bubbles' rear drive oil level last week. Couldn't see squat through the oil level window, so I took it off and sloshed a little oil out. Looked about like chili minus the chunks. I presume that's a bit of rust coloring what started out as a nice amber oil. Changing the oil is straightforward. What's the procedure to "flush" it? While I'm messing with the rear drive oil, is it possible to improve the sight glass? I previously gave it as good a cleaning as possible and blew it out with compressed air, but still doesn't work very well as a "window". Is there a better aftermarket one?
Nice description!! Texas Chili...with or without beans?
I bought an extra container of the gear oil (20 bucks) so that I could squirt more into the rear drive, and I kept squirting fresh fluid into the fill hole until the fluid coming out the drain hole was no longer murky and came out completely clear. Now that you mention it I don't recall seeing a sight glass on my Scura rear drive...I do have a sight glass on the side of the transmission. On the rear drive I only have a breather valve...now you've got me wondering if I should have a sight glass back there!
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2 hours ago, Twin AH said:
Also just for the record while I had it running in the shop the other day I did pull the plug on the air box air temp sensor and it didn't seem to change anything??
With a faulty air temp sensor, my Norge ran like crap...noticeably bad, couldn't get above 30-40 mph. New sensor, all is good. It's a cheap part, and easy to install...worthwhile checking. Visible inspection and cleaning with MAF spray didn't fix it, so a new sensor went in.
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The fluids that were in it were Motul SAE 75W90 Full Synthetic, but I replaced all of them with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 75W90 - API GL-5 now.
Thanks for the tip on the fork...will look at the parts manual and see how it is assembled...luckily a small amount and the first time I have seen any leak there.
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Fresh fluids all around!
Rear drive was low and very dark and dirty, flushed it completely and refilled to mark.
Transmission fluid was medium to 3/4 dirty, but level was good. 850 ml into the tranny and all is good.
Engine oil was medium dirty, level was good. Put 3.5 quarts in, will take it for a spin and check level again, may need another quarter of a quart.
A little concerned I see a small bit of very clean fork oil on the top of the right shock adjusting screw...does that mean I have a seal issue? Maybe time to inspect both, check seals and put fresh fluid...haven't done that yet on the Scura...will need to read a bit. Any pointers from the experts having done this?
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14 minutes ago, Twin AH said:
Only one error and Pete said its nothing.
Fresh fuel was put (premium) within hrs. of the event........... got it Coil or air box sensor.
Any way I can do a quick and dirty test to identify if the airbox sensor is on the fritz?
Unfortunately I don't know of another way. Now knowing that you had a full shutdown, I would definitely be hooking up Guzzidiag and reading ECU errors or Dashboard errors thru the Diagnostics Menu. Do you have Guzzidiag? I'm hoping you haven't dropped a valve here. How many miles on the bike?
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Eliminate old gas and put a fresh tank in or add some fuel treatment.
Fuel filter would be next…but first I would also connect Guzzidiag and see if you have any obvious errors or faults popping up. You might also have a faulty air temp sensor on the air box that regulates fuel air mixture, a bad coil…but without seeing if there are any errors registered we’re just guessing.
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7 minutes ago, Twin AH said:
Just caps at this point.......... new plugs should arrive tomorrow.
Original fuel filter. Yes did give it a good does of injector cleaner a couple weeks ago(that was my first thought on what it might be)
I'm thinking from time to time now the way it is acting that has anyone had a vacuum leak some where in the system that could be causing all this?
It still has all the original pollution control/evap can ect.
Just trying think of all the easier tests to do first is all.
Ciao
Got it...have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like, any difference between left and right...one sooty looking, one nice and brown/tan?
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Regulator/alternator location Sport Naked
in Technical Topics
Posted
Classic understatement there...well played!