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FreyZI

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Posts posted by FreyZI

  1. 14 hours ago, FreyZI said:

    The G5 isn't running real well at the moment.  Cleaned spark plugs and treated to same snake oil fuel today.  She runs pretty good with the choke on, but backfires and sputters with choke off. 

    Happy news!  The snake oil worked.  In this case, VP Fix-it-fuel.  Running reasonably slick.  She sure does like to be good and warmed up.

  2. The G5 isn't running real well at the moment.  Cleaned spark plugs and treated to same snake oil fuel today.  She runs pretty good with the choke on, but backfires and sputters with choke off.  Soon as she's running well, goes on the sale block.  Takes up too much space and just too many other bikes to ride.  At the moment, she serves well as a foot rest.

    20240413_170225.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Haha 3
  3. 44 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    The other pair of pins I have are on the bench and I measured them at 24mm thread OD

    Could there actually be three sizes of "pins": M20, M22, and M24? :huh2:

    For those concerned about the excessive weight of the pins, I put the pair of M22 pins on the scale: 191 grams (about 6.75 ounces).

    • Like 3
  4. 4 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Corrections. Old size M20 X 1.0 Later bikes M24 X 1.0.

    I dealt with the two different sizes when I swapped the side plates/pork chops/stilettos a couple years ago.  I measured both swing arm pivots with a digital caliper at 19.9 mm and 21.8 mm.  These numbers relate to the outside diameter of the threads.  I would call them M20 and M22, respectively.

    • Like 2
  5. 10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Depends on what year. There are 2 different sizes. The earlier red frame bikes had the fine thread in from memory 18mm and the later M20.

    Here's a link to the discussion on the two different sizes:

    And here's a pick of my spare M22 pivots up against the size/thread checker.  It's a very fine thread.

    swingarm pivot.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  6. On 4/8/2024 at 2:53 PM, Gmc28 said:

    anyone have opinions on the Antigravity

    I have Antigravity batteries on my R1200R and F800GS.  I believe ATX-12 with Re-start, at least on the R12.  Probably been about five years now.  I accidentally left the headlamp of the R12 on for a bit and then came back to a dead battery.  Replaced with the Antigravity and have not had any problem with.  As I've been riding the V11s and the F800 considerably more, the R12 may go months without a ride, but it always fires right up, despite the fact that I've never put it on a charger.  I was impressed enough with the Antigravity in the R12 that I put one in the F8, wanting to shave some weight for the NEBDR (with camping gear) a couple summers ago.  Similar treatment -- never charged -- and never had any problem.  I did have an unsettling moment -- thinking I had a dead battery -- when the F8 barely turned over one morning.  It was cold enough to frost over the windshield.  Then I remembered that the lithium batteries like to be warmed up; cranked it again, and it fired up.  So, never been let down by the Antigravity.  As I don't imagine I'll be doing much riding in significantly sub-freezing temps, the cold start thing isn't a major concern.  I did do a half hour ride in 22F on a V11 last winter, prompting me to consider heated grips and to purchase 7V gloves (with which I'm not impressed).

    I haven't yet put a lithium battery in the V11s.  My riding skill (or lack thereof) doesn't demand that I shave a few pounds off a street bike.  If memory serves me, there was some discussion on this -- the motha of all v11 forums -- about weak batteries resulting in some potential problem.  I wonder if there is any concern that a "cold" lithium battery's initial feeble cranking might produce a similar problem.  I suppose that would be easily obviated by warming the battery with the headlamp before trying to crank over, if one were smart enough to manage that.

     

  7. One of the reasons I bought Bubbles-the-parts-bike is that she came with the H&B complete rack and a set of H&B Junior 30 side cases.  Turned out those cases had absorbed one or more low-sides, had significant dents were missing their "special" waterproof seal, \ and the locking hardware had seen better days.  Initially, I thought I might be able to make them serviceable, but I highly doubt it.  As far as security goes, I can't imagine it would take more than a couple seconds and a knife or screwdriver to get into them.  I can't imagine spending $500-600 to replace with new Junior 30s or Junior 40.  Seeeew, has anyone had good luck combining any other hard side cases with the H&B rack? 

    I have imagined using Pelican or Apache cases, inexpensive aluminum cases (i.e., Tusk V2 large), and simply adding some mounting hardware (to include a bottom rail and some u-bolts on top with acorn nuts inside,

    or cutting out the mounting parts of the existing shot Junior 30 and attaching those to something else.

    I know the H&B Explorer line should work with the complete rack, but I'm trying to keep cost to an absolute minimum.

    Welcome advice.

    Cheers,

    Frey 

     

  8. Maybe too little, too late, but I've been in touch with my aunt.  They would have done patches, and it seems they could do plenty of other things, too.  Not sure if I'm allowed to do this here, but I'll act first and beg forgiveness later: the outfit my aunt and uncle run can be contacted at stitchedcrafts [the Arabic number for MMX] [the symbol that kinda looks like an "a" with a circle] [Google's email service brand name] [the terminal punctuation somewhere known as hard stop] com -- no spaces.  Let's see the programmers and AI figure that out!  Just the two of them running a fancy embroidery machine out of their house -- not a big, bad company -- so presumably they will handle smaller orders and deal with customers personally.  And, as noted, they are motorcycle people, so they'll appreciate what you're in to.

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  9. @p6x, thanks for leading this effort.  Short story long, I used to have a nice navy blue Kangol cap until my daughter lost it.  Always liked the Kangol cap since I was a little kid, because my bad-ass "Uncle" Harold wore one.  Being, myself, a cheap-ass, I didn't replace it for a long time.  Eventually, I did replace it when I found a knock-off Kangol cap (speaking of TM laws) at the black market in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, for a couple bucks.  My daughter proceeded to lose that one, too.  Some year or three later, I decided to splurge and get myself another Kangol.  Got on Flea-bay and found one for $10 -- only, instead of navy blue, it was emerald green.  Purchase made, I can deal with green.  It shows up some days later and I find that it's been mutilated.  I hadn't noticed the pic of the back of the cap, where the Kangol logo had been covered up with a ~1.5"x3" oval Green Bay Packers embroidered patch.  I don't have any problem with American Football or the Packers, but I don't really care to throw my support behind that enterprise.  It was not easy to get that patch off, as the entire perimeter had been fabric glued to the hat.  Left with a kangaroo in a mess of glue, I decided to put a different embroidered patch on -- one for something a little more meaningful to me.  So, I tried to super glue on a 2"x3.5" oval Moto Guzzi embroidered patch.  Needless to say, that didn't stick and now I have an even bigger mess on the back of the cap.  So unsightly that I won't wear the thing (except on St. Patrick's Day).  Now, that there patch that you're trying to get made up would do just the trick for me.  This time, I'll actually sew it on.  So, count me in for one or a couple of patches.

    Incidentally, my aunt has a business that does custom embroidery.  I haven't talked to her for a few years -- no ill will, just not close.  They live in the Midwest and I don't get out that way very often, nor do they get to Pennsylvania ever.  Didn't come to my wedding celebration last summer.  So, I might be able to guilt them into making up an order of patches.  Don't know if it's something their equipment can handle, but I suspect if they can do flamingo and Santa hand towels, they can do patches, shirts, etc.  @p6x, let me know where you are in negotiations and how many takers you've got, so I know whether to make an inquiry.  Incidentally, my aunt and her husband (well, mostly her husband, but she rides pillion) are motorcycle people (I won't mention the brand) and I imagine they do a few warrior vests, too.  Would probably think it was cool to be making up some patches for us.

    As to design issues, too many cooks in the kitchen, but I like the green, eagle low, and I would want good ol' embroidery -- not print.  Riding classic (or near classic) Guzzis with modern sublimation-printed patches just doesn't seem right.

    Cheers,

    Frey

    • Like 4
  10. Thread drift killer; O.P. says: Problem solved.  After hose job last week, did valve job yesterday (a little tight, intake closer to American setting and exhaust gaps were no bigger).  Changed to closer to "world spec".  Actually seems quieter/smoother now.  Topped off engine and transmission oil and got out for a ride today.  Kept it a little less spirited to test.  All good.  Enjoyed greatly!  Thanks, again, to all who post on the forum.:notworthy:

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  11. Thanks to all for the expert guidance :notworthy:.  After hours of cleaning this (sorry -- don't know why it is 90 degrees CW):

    20240305_111129.jpg

    the law of diminishing returns kicked in and I put it back together.  Definitely used a few muscles I ordinarily don't getting hoses reattached.  Running, but figure I'll do a valve check, new gaskets, and an oil change before taking it for a test.

    Meanwhile, as I was fiddling with the hose from the bottom side of the fuel tank (that's a PITA) -- specifically, running it down to a spot behind the exhaust crossover -- I realized that I don't have the exhaust hanger, the one called a U-bolt, GU01123830.   Can't imagine how I lost that, but will definitely use lock nuts next time (though I believe I did when I worked on the back end a couple years ago) :homer:.

    Trouble shooting the WR450F no start this afternoon, with fellows and :bier:.  Happy Saint Patrick's Day!

    • Like 2
  12. Started into this project today.  Looks like the recent blowout only added to years of oily gunk in there.  One benefit to having the frame caked in an oily mess is no rust. :huh2:  Tank off, fairing off, air box off, breather hose off.  Here's what it looks like:

    20240305_220355.jpg20240305_220339.jpg

    Other end has similar, if slightly smaller cracks.  I was expecting bigger.  What kind of pressure does this hose carry? 

    One thing of interest (to me), the hose was installed upside down (i.e., as shown in the photo).  As a result, the hose was pressed against the farthest aft fin of the voltage regulator.  I suspected there might be a hole at that spot, but looks like just a bit of an indentation there.

    Tomorrow begins deep cleaning.

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    • Thanks 1
  13. 1 hour ago, Doansci said:

    FreyZI, it looks like reversing the LeMans bar clamps will leave out a screw anchoring the clamp to the top triple clamp.  Maybe not a big deal but didn't try it - I should!    Also, are those the stock riser clamps on your Tenni?  

    Hey, Doansci.  I hadn't seen that -- must've been the jumble of wires :ph34r:.  Anyway, I don't believe that bolt anchoring the clamp to the top triple tree is essential.  At least, I hope not, because I've been riding the Tenni for years without it :bike:.  Somebody just stuck a socket cap bolt in that hole.  Similar solution in @alannn's pic of the Das Mototec clamps and in your second pic (the hopeful solution).

    I don't know about the origin of the risers on the Tenni.  Came to me with lots of tasty bits!

  14. I'm attaching pics of the risers on both my V11s.  In the bottom pic, you'll see that risers had been switched left to right, with the towers closer to rider.  It would be possible to simply switch the risers from one side to the other, with the bars no higher, but substantially closer, obviating the need for any purchase.  It would also be a really quick fix, because you'd not have to change anything on the clip-ons, just quickly swap risers.  Just be careful you have plenty of clearance between clip-ons and fuel tank.

    Not attractive, but on my F800GS I installed a set of Rox Risers, which have served me well.

    Rox Risers.png

    On the Tenni:20240221_173549 risers.jpg

    On Bubbles:

    20240221_173535 risers.jpg

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