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FreyZI

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Posts posted by FreyZI

  1. Bought one-way flight from Pennsylvania to Colorado in June. Thinking I'll ride around CO visiting friends for 5 days and then spend another 5 days on a joy ride home.  I'll need to buy a bike out there of course.  If I love it, I'll keep it when I get home.  Otherwise, I'll sell it.  Trumpet Sprint STs seem to be pretty affordable and well-liked, plus many come with factory cases.  Seems a number of forum members have owned or ridden one at some point.  Virtues of this bike?

     

    • Like 1
  2. 3 minutes ago, footgoose said:

    The difference in 'noise' between the two bikes could be the difference in clutch/flywheel assemblies.

    Interesting idea. Incidentally, the Tenni exploding clutch/flywheel problem was resolved by POx1.  Bubbles just sounds a bit clanky.

    Seems that switching the brackets L to R resolved the fairing problem.

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Scud said:

    The tank and fairing are centered on the frame but the engine is offset a bit to the right. The fairing has two brackets from the heads that look deceptively similar, but are not the same. The longer bracket should go on the LH side to compensate for the engine offset. If the brackets are in the wrong sides, spacing around the tank will be too tight on the left and overly wide on the right.

    Yep, that did the trick. PO missed that when installing the fairing after the first crash.

    I always knew one cylinder was forward and one aft, but never knew they were no on longitudinal center.

    • Like 2
  4. 39 minutes ago, docc said:

    Progress!

    The most encouraging thing is that I didn't have any parts left over after it went back together. :ninja:

    Thanks for the nice pic, Docc.  Per instructions, grounded wire and got neutral light.  Filed connector, put on some dielectric grease.  Neutral light all good. :bier:

     

     

    • Like 2
  5. I got Bubbles put back together.  I started with the rear, as I swapped out the badly peeling anodized-looking red pork chops for a pair of dark silver-ish pork chops that came with the bike from PO.  Though I had considered a "one side at a time" approach to pork chop replacement (i.e., take as little apart as possible), I ultimately decided to just take everything apart.

    Now that I've had the rear apart, the good news is that most of it seems pretty serviceable.  I did not break into the rear drive, but oil looked fine and magnetic plug looked fine, too.  All the joints in the drive train looked good enough.

    Known problems:

    • Shock eye at swingarm has some play
    • Torsion bar rubber jobbies are shot
    • Right muffler mount bent
    • Torsion bar has been eroded at the connection to frame (I suspect one of the frame tabs was bent inward at some point and it since ate slowly away at the torsion bar where it's pinched
    • Also, the most rearward part of the fairing (above the cylinder heads) is not a tight fit to the fuel tank.  I suspect that, in the fall on the right, one or more mounting brackets were bent, and then bent back, but not quite to original shape.  I have a half inch or so of daylight.  In the outdoor light, it sure seemed to me that the fairing was a different color (a bit less gold) that the tank and the seat surround.  I suspect that the fairing had either been replaced or repainted at some point; and that there was a second accident in which the fairing got a little minor road rash.  Yes, I think this bike has been down a couple times:(

    Moving on to the front:

    I took Bubbles down from laundry room suspension and wheeled it outside.  Started right up.  Runs a little rough.  A bit more (valve train?) noise than the Tenni.  I let it warm up a couple minutes; did not ride it.  Began leaking fuel from the right throttle body.  I noticed this after I shut it down, so I don't know if it was leaking while running.  Also after shut down, I noticed that the right muffler only smoked for a while.  This is where I will be most happy for your thoughts. 

    One other gremlin to note:  Neutral light does not come on and dropping the kickstand in neutral results in engine cut-off.

    It's a good thing I'm having fun wrenching and learning about V11s, because I'm feeling like I made a pretty poor, sight unseen, Covid Times, boredom purchase.  This may end up being the rat bike I always wanted. :huh2:

     

    • Like 1
  6. 10 hours ago, Scud said:

    I think damn near none. I've seen this mounting bolt bent slightly on some bikes. Hold it against a straight-edge to test.

    Bolt is straight.  Just seems a little sloppy, like the swivel bearing of the shock is a little enlarged.

    • Confused 1
  7. 18 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Whats the actual difference in the threaded section OD? Can you measure it accurately for us.

    Y'all are saying 19mm and 22mm.  My caliper says 19.9 mm and 21.8 mm.  I would call the smaller one a nominal 20 mm.  Confirm that the locking nut is chromed on the smaller and stainless on the larger.

    10 hours ago, Scud said:

    You should probably remove the crinkle paint where the oil drain plug washer seats. It looks like you only protected the threads with a spare bolt. Did the paint require curing in the oven to get the correct texture?

    Not to worry, @Scud, I just hadn't taken the tape off that drain plug washer seat.  The paint (VHT Wrinkle Plus) does not need to be baked: take your pick, let dry or cure.  Instructions say that baking may make the crinckles smaller.  200F for an hour.  I baked.  :rasta:

     

    • Like 1
  8. Wrapped up a work marathon early this afternoon and treated myself to an evening with Bubbles.  What did I do to my v11 today?  Started putting the back end back together.  I picked up this slovenly V11LM earlier this year and have started cleaning, checking, and (the reason for taking the back end apart) replacing the very badly peeling pork chops with a pair of silver chops PO threw in.  So, I'm putting the swing arm back on and I'm having the damnedest (sp.?) time getting the swingarm pivots to seat in the swingarm bearings.  Got the flashligh, lined up the holes, tried again and again, switched sides, flashlight line-up, tried and tried again.  Now, I read a post recently (sorry, I can't attribute this at the moment); poster said grind a little bevel around the edge of the pin so it goes into the bearing easier.  Well that sounds like a pain in the arse.  Anyway, long story short, I'm thinking -- it can't be this hard.  Well, you've heard the expression you can't put a square peg in a round hole.  Also, you can't put a round peg in a round hole when the peg is of a significantly larger diameter than the hole.  Even a hammer would not have helped.

    20220302_193206.jpg

    Who would have guessed that the spare pork chops take a different diameter pivot? :homer:

    The other project for the day was painting the final drive case.  I had some advice (thanks, folks), which I ignored, and went with the crinkle paint.  I did buy a rattle can of a semi-gloss, too, and shot a test piece of both.  Crinkle was a good match to original, so I went with that, knowing: 1) it doesn't look as good as smooth, 2) it's a PITA to clean.  What can I say? :huh2:

    Turned out pretty well.  Far from perfect, but perfect on this hard-used bike would be like lipstick on a pig.

    20220302_200127.jpg

    Anyway, a couple of questions (apparently I don't know how to search on this forum, because I can only get zero results of 4,000 results):

    1) Torque on swingarm pivot caps?

    2) How much play is acceptable in the eye of the shock mount at the swingarm?

    :bier:

    Cheers,

    Frey

    • Like 1
  9. Returning from thread drift>>>

    I posed a question about Grisos in another thread that garnered no attention.  Will try again here.

    I seem to remember when Griso leftovers were around.  My search on cycletrader.com today had just 2 Grisos listed -- an '07 and a '17 (the prior with reasonable miles and great condition for under $4K).  Are these ending up in the hands of people who appreciate them?

    Anyway, question is this:  would you buy an '07?  On paper, seems like the 8V is the way to go.

    • Like 1
  10. On 7/17/2021 at 10:07 AM, p6x said:

    Why don't MDs prescribe a Guzzi ride as therapy is beyond me...

    I've prescribed myself a ride in the old stompin' grounds of Colorado this summer.  Heading out for a wedding end of June near Vail.  I bought a one-way ticket to Denver and have left the way back itinerary-less.  I'll either rent a bike for a week or....

    If I find the right bike, turn it into a fly-and-ride.

    I'll have a lot of miles to cover in the fly-over states.  I've made many trips across I-80 between the front range and PA (by car), but never taken the more southerly route.  After a few days of riding in the mountains, I could strike out across the plains, try some different BBQ, see the Arch, then into the Monogahela.

    A couple months too early to start looking at bikes in CO for the end of June, but why should that stop me?  Ideally, the bike would be something with wind protection and cases (or at least mounts).  I did see this thing of interest: https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/mcy/d/fort-collins-2007-motto-guzzi-grizo-1100/7445282042.html.  '07 Griso, low miles, adult-owned, with screen and cases, aftermarket seat, for $5,400.  I know there are lots of threads out there on the 4V vs. 8V and rollerization, which I'd have to look at if we were closer to June.  Would you buy an early Griso?

    • Like 1
  11. +1 more on overhead straps.  If the bike comes down on me, I have other problems, because the dining room table is next.

    20220223_204316.jpg

    I'm using the Canyon Dancer tie down (er, up) device, which is really convenient.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
    • Haha 2
  12. 10 hours ago, gstallons said:

    I'd leave it alone . 

    Great.  Now that we've decided that I will not screw around inside the final drive, I have to decide what paint to use.  Here's a shot of the torsion bar bracket thingy with a cast alu piece I shot with some VHT wrinkle paint. 

    IMG_19022022_214706_(650_x_650_pixel).jpg

    Looks a pretty good match to my eye.  I think I'll give this stuff a shot on the final drive.  I had been leaning toward matching the swingarm, but this is so close to original I have to go with it.

    This particular paint can be air dried, but to "cure", the instructions say to put the painted pieces in an oven at 200F for 20 minutes.  I did that with this piece.  I'd like to do that with the final drive, too.

    I don't see any reason I can't stick the whole final drive in the oven at 200F for 20 minutes.  I'd remove oil drain bolts, of course.  I'd imagine most grease (P.O.x2 seems to have been a fan of red grease) would be okay up to that temperature.

    Cheers,

    Frey

  13. 13 hours ago, docc said:

    Yet, as gender pertains to the animism of machines, my motorcycles are decidedly feminine. How could I know? Their beauty and allure? Their vexing way of engaging me in their ways? My inexplicable devotion and unfettered desire to be with them?  Bikes aren't chick magnets. They're dude magnets.  I'm pretty well stuck to mine. :wub:

    On the other hand, my tractors and trucks are masculine things. They have scars, and deference, and a certain willingness to serve at their expense. 

    I have (had) all three: women, men, and neutral.  The first two are BMWs and ladies: Ada (R1200R) and Brunhilde (R1100RL).  Ada is nimble and quick.  Brunhilda is a mother, carrying her one-wheeled cub on her right.  And then third Beemer (F800GS) is a dude, Carl.  I think there was a bit of a leap in finding that the F8 was male, to wit, getting past the idea of straddling and gripping a male.  Out in the wilderness riding the rough stuff and getting dirty, though, I want to be with a dependable, rugged buddy, not a lady.  So, Carl.

    Interestingly, the Italian beauty in the fleet is just "the Tenni" or "the Goose" or "the Green Goose".  And the V1000 is "the Popemobile" or "the Rototiller".  Both genderless.  Just MACHINES.  Maybe there's some grace in that: synergy between rider and machine; no need to personify.  Well, with the V11 at least.  The V1000 might as well be a tractor...

    Cheers,

    Frey

     

    • Haha 2
  14. 1 hour ago, Scud said:

    Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to keep the wrinkle finish on the final drive. It's far enough away from the engine and transmission that it will look fine with a different finish. Better to get as close to the swingarm as possible.

    On my Scura, the swingarm is powdercoated flat black (as are almost every other black bracket lever, footpeg, etc.). The engine, tranny, final drive and reaction rod are all painted with VHT Satin Black (over VHT Engine Case primer). For some reason, the final drive took the finish differently than the other cases, which is why I thought maybe Semi-Gloss would be good for the final drive. Overall, the Satin Black paint looks similar to the flat black powder - except on the final drive where the spray paint yielded an even flatter finish.

    C6ED7BE4-8503-491C-859D-8C9114E0F922_1_1

    Man, Scud, your Scura is impossibly clean (nice Turismo Veloce behind yours, too).  I do see that the final drive is flatter than the swingarm. 

    Maybe I'll just paint my swingarm, too (it cleaned up pretty well).

    • Like 1
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