FreyZI
-
Posts
198 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by FreyZI
-
-
Incidentally, no Roper plate on Bubbles. Most aggressive acceleration was up a slope. Is this what the sloppage looks like when vented out the air box?
-
Cooked the Goose?
Not many 62 degree F days in Pennsylvania in mid-February, but Saturday was such a day; Friday was slightly cooler but sunnier. The warm weather called for Bubbles-the-Parts-Bike to come out and play. We enjoyed a trip from Happy Valley to York, PA (100+ miles) and a night there, with return trip the following morning. Spirited riding, including a (necessarily) short red line hill climb up the last 4000' of Waggoner's Gap Road.
As soon as I arrived in the driveway, I smelled hot oil and saw oil dripping. Hard to tell exactly where from. Oil's wet the top of the oil cooler and the stuff behind it, probably dripped off the lower front subframe and, with a little airflow assist, dropped onto the headers, plus all down the front of the engine and the new CF alternator cover.
Bubbles has been awaiting tank off maintenance since coming into my possession. Now, it seems, Bubbles will be parked until that happens. Hoping this can be explained by something relatively innocuous.
-
6 hours ago, footgoose said:
Is anyone suggesting a rider can or could, buy ins for one bike (lets say $150 annually) and on the same policy add a bike or three, and the rate is still $150 for all?
Not quite. The price of the policy increases with additional bikes, but by a fairly negligible amount. I don't remember exactly, but when I added a plated 2010-ish WR450F, it raised my premium a couple bucks (literally, $2) over six months. Also, you can have different coverages on different bikes. Only bike I have comprehensive on is the Tenni.
-
1
-
-
On 1/16/2024 at 6:23 PM, p6x said:
I am currently with Progressive, and they do not offer such a deal.
Progressive does allow multiple motorcycles on a single policy. I've had it for years. Actually, they used to limit a policy to five motorcycles, but they since raised that number, I was told. I currently have four insured on my Progressive policy. Maybe they don't offer it everywhere or maybe you didn't speak to the right representative.
-
1
-
-
Was reading latest post on "What did you do to your V11 today?" thread and saw @gstallons tire tread breakdown and @Gmc28 mentioning the Greenie on the stand. I've been wondering for a while if I should invest in some stands. Central Pennsylvania winters are pretty wet, grey, and cold, but we do get the occasional warm-ish day of sunshine for a longer ride (maybe the Tenni) and I try to ride a motorcycle in to work most days (sadly just a few miles), either the champagne V11 or one of the Beemers (R1200R or F800GS). With any luck, none of those bikes ever sits long enough to let the cobwebs form, though maybe a month or more during January and February. The Beemers have center stands and they're always on them when parked in the garage. Not so the V11 stablemates.
As to stands, what's your practice? Use all the time in the garage? Use when you believe it's going to be some time before the bike sees action?
What brands do you like? Front and rear, I assume? Issues with shafties?
Cheers
-
My parents told me if I ever got a donorcycle, they'd disown me. My first motorcycle disappeared because of them. They came to visit (I was a young adult) and I moved the bike out of the garage and put it on the curb around the block. When they left and I went to retrieve the bike, it was gone. Eventually I called the city. They said they had it in the pound, alleged it was an "abandoned" vehicle. Admittedly, it was a bit of a rat bike, but I suspect the city's taking it had something to do with the realtor trying to sell the property I had parked in front of. When they told me how much $$$ to get it out of the pound, I had to tell them GLWS. I should have taken them the key, too.
I was having kids about that time and thought maybe better to ensure that they grew up with a dad, so I didn't get another moto for several years. Fortunately, when I did get back into it, I was able to afford more than the $900 I spent on the lost Yamaha XS-750. BMW R1200R was my first decent moto. Eventually, I manned-up and told my folks. Several years later, my dad and I bought a '79 V1000 G5 to restore. That was to be his ride. Sadly, the Covid years and bypass surgery came and time went, and I could see my old man getting a little older. Even though he's strong for late 70s, if he had a get off, I think he'd be in a pretty bad way. I don't imagine late 70s is a good time to learn to ride a motorcycle. So, I had to put the idea of riding some with my dad to rest. Same general idea: You love to ride a motorcycle; but you don't fully love the idea of your loved ones riding one. Can't imagine how I'd have felt if my dad got injured on the "Roto-tiller".
I have a teenage son and daughter. They've both ridden a bit of trail bike (graduated from TT-R90 to 125 to 225 (we also have a fun Dave Miller Concepts CR/XR cross). Both express interest in riding on the street. So now I get to go through the conundrum, again, x2. I certainly will not tell them I'll disown them. But neither will I encourage them to ride. If they want to ride, they'll insist on it, they'll do the state-mandated street riding safety course, and they'll figure out how to acquire a suitable learning bike.
We live in a college town, where most of the drivers from 16-22 have their heads up their arses, and a lot of the others, too. I think it will be valuable for them to have a significant amount of cage driving time on the road before they try a motorcycle, so they have a better sense of traffic patterns, anticipating others' movements, timing, etc. If they ride, I'll worry, but I'll appreciate why, and I'll hope to have some fun miles with them.
-
Had Bubbles out the reservoir. I have a GS and a WR, so I don't generally take the street-oriented bikes on gravel. She acquitted herself pretty well. Maybe some knobbies next tire change...
-
1
-
-
5 minutes ago, Art said:
70mph is 62mph according to Garmin. This is adjustable, much like a watch I wouldn't touch. The odometer is right on.
I had always been curious how off the speedos are. I believe you have the same gauges as on the Tenni. Do you suppose they are all a little different or that they're reasonably consistently off across many units? What do you suppose 124 is in real world MPH?
Anybody ride with a GPS on the bars to compare?
-
I haven't heard from Greg in ages, so I believe this is dead in the water. I would still like to replace the CF hump/cowl on the Tenni, so I will make some inquiries (though pretty low life priority). Perchance I find someone to make a batch, I'll just get a bunch and sell them off. I won't get anyone's hopes up in the meantime.
-
3
-
-
Received mdi CF alternator cover (35% off, supposedly, at $65). Originally intended for the Tenni, but I'm not blown away by the look of the matte plain weave -- and already have a smorgasbord of different CF on her -- thus, this new CF bit ended up on Bubbles. Definitely looks better than the painted alloy cover, but showcases the dramatic need for a thorough cleaning. The irony of putting a new part on the parts bike is not lost on me.
-
7
-
-
On 3/8/2022 at 10:49 PM, Scud said:
Does Bubbles' clankiness go away when you pull the clutch lever in? If so, you may have yourself a bike with a RAM single-plate clutch and flywheel.
Yes.
[Took Bubbles for another ride today (probably 70 miles). I'm working through the niggles on this now road-going parts bike. Last year was aft of the transmission. This year, working toward the middle. This week: changed front wheel bearings and tire. Dramatic difference.]
I'm gaining confidence that nothing is going to explode, but I'm not sure how to feel when at a stop in traffic and this thing is loudly clattering. Should I be embarrassed? Should I be amused?
Should I care about the gaze of the other at all? Is there a point, knowing how these clutches rattle, when I should nonetheless take preventative measures?
-
So, I had the champagne LM to the local-ish MG dealer Monday for inspection. It would have passed, but for two problems -- front tire was pretty worn and brake light wasn't actuated by the hand lever. Fiddling with the wires to the micro-switch ensued: two wires, three spades. Tried the various combinations (before looking up the wiring diagram). In doing so, broke one of the spades off. Looking online at replacing the micro-switch, looks like a two-spade switch, so I wonder if this was a case of parts bin manufacture or replacement. New switch on order.
Meanwhile, I lifted the bike from the sump and removed the front wheel to take for tire replacement. Seems bearings are knackered, as there is enough play that wiggling the spacer results in a rattle. Maybe that explains a little weaving at speed. Surprised they didn't say anything about that on inspection....
In the box of random parts that came with the bike were two Fafnir bearings. I had hoped that they would be what I needed for the front wheel, but they are 47mm, not 52mm. Getting mixed information on the size of the rear wheel bearing and the final drive bearing. If nothing else, they are the right size for the F800GS.
Should be street legal in a couple days. Valve clearances check to come in the next week or so. Meantime, what is that rattle at idle in neutral with no clutch? Should I be worried? Seems marginally better when very warm, but still disconcerting.
-
1 hour ago, docc said:
A triple-digit parts bike!
~Indicated. No idea what speedo error is.
-
20 hours ago, FreyZI said:
But first, a bit longer of a ride tomorrow to see how she fares.
Had the longer ride today. About 25 miles this morning to work site and the long way home, probably 40 miles. Aquitted itself reasonably well over a mix of interstate and highway -- some long, straight stretches and some sweepers. I built enough confidence in the bike to foray into triple digit speeds. From the cockpit, it looks and feels an awful lot like the Tenni. I'd have to do a back-to-back ride to get a better sense of the differences, but my impression is that the Tenni (equipped with PC3 and open air box) has a little more poke at the top end. I also don't have the lovely 'induction' noise of the Tenni. The champagne, in neutral, clutch all out, clatters like crazy. Clutch pulled in, or in gear, or with revs, the noise goes away. I'm sure there are a few threads within discussing the rattletrap noise in N without clutch. The idle is quite low, so the bike vibrates to the point of worthless mirrors and the sense that the engine will cut out momentarily (though it chuffs along just above flat line). And I noticed zero difference with enrichment control.
One other interesting note. Bike wouldn't start a couple times. I did a number of things: key off/on, kickstand up/down, neutral in/out. A little general fiddling and fuel pump primed and bike started right up. I think I've figured out that if I simply press the off switch firmly, the start button works properly.
Filled with 93 octane. What do you all use? I'll search the forum....
Tonight: cleaning up and prepping H&B big luggage rack for paint (question, perhaps better addressed in a different topic: do any other panniers work well (the side cases that came with the bike are serviceable, if worse for the wear). This weekend: Maintenance (oil, filters, etc.). Monday: state-mandated inspection.
Cheers!
Frey
-
2
-
-
Today: Insured, titled, and registered champagne V11LM. Yesterday: Took it around neighborhood to see if it runs and if it's worth paying the taxes and fees to get plate. Still undecided.
Been incommunicado (work got me down, and other priorities) for the better part of a year. January 2022, I bought a fairly rough V11 from Ohio; figured I'd keep a spare V11 around as a parts bike in case I ever need to scavenge for the Tenni. Took stock of what I had bought (sight unseen) -- a well-used and grungy bike -- and started into cleaning and sorting. Last spring was back end (stripped and painted final drive housing, among other things). Haven't yet tackled the front.
I had been discouraged that I was going to have to rebuild throttle bodies, as I had seen fuel dripping from the R body after a start in my driveway. However, I read here that sometimes a start up with quick shut off can result in back pressure that forces fuel out of the body. Yesterday, two shut downs, no leak -- no fuel dripping on exhaust header
A couple issues: Sounds like a box of rocks at idle, but some throttle input settles it into a reasonably quiet rhythm. The Tenni isn't exactly the picture of smooth at idle, either, so I don't make too much of this, though it does seem a bit noisier. After a good warm up and a mile or two of 25 mph neighborhood roads, I shut 'er down. For a minute or so after shut down, the engine and/or transmission made some "tinking" noises. I imagine some of that is completely normal noise of expansion/contraction, but I wonder too if that could mean some internal condensation (bike has been sitting in a laundry room or garage without being run for the better part of a year and a half).
I have not done anything to the front end, yet, other than check engine and gear oil. Engine oil looks pretty fresh and level is good. There's a good bit of oil on the engine block -- particularly the left hand side -- which I'm hoping is just breather spray and 40K+ miles without a bath. Not a drop of oil on the driveway or garage floor. I will change oil, filter, and sump gasket; drain and refill gear oil, check valve tolerances, and give a reasonably thorough scrub in coming days.
But first, a bit longer of a ride tomorrow to see how she fares.
Known issues: Bitubo steering damper leaking oil. Engine side tach bevel gear held together with a green twist tie. L bar end comes awfully close to L side of tank, so that hand is pinched at full lock (easy fix, but it can wait).
Other note: Started up easily enough (big fan of Odyssey batteries), but I didn't notice that there was much difference at all with enrichment all the way on (it's fairly obvious on the Tenni).
Happy to hear suggestions. Thanks!
Frey
-
5
-
-
Now I need a CF belly pan!
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 8/9/2022 at 10:49 AM, LaGrasta said:
Speedfrog, I agree.
Also, as I explore MDI a bit further, I see there are choices. For me, trying to match my CF bikini fairing, I'd order the matte weave style.
Since I seem to be going down the road of accessorizing with CF, I'd probably get in on an order from MDI. The matte will probably age better than the gloss, as nicks and scratches won't contrast so much.
-
1
-
-
BTW, every other CF part on my Tenni is also 1x1 weave except for the hugger. 1x1 looks like a checker board. 2x2 looks like diagonal blocky lines. 1x1 is also called plain weave, and 2x2 is sometimes called twill weave.
-
3
-
1
-
-
On 8/3/2022 at 12:24 AM, Stumble_t said:
I’ve still got an outstanding open question on what weave/finish will match the factory CF bodywork on the Cafè Sport though. I’d hope to get that answered before I had to make a decision.
Just realized looking at pics online that Tenni doesn't appear to have any CF from factory. I bought my Tenni with all the CF bits. Side cover I believe to be an MG product, judging from sticker.
It appears to be 1x1 weave.
But, my Mistral mufflers are very clearly -- like Docc's -- 2x2 weave.
-
2
-
-
A closer shot of the prototype side cover showing somewhat the weave and hand-laid character.
-
Note that these pieces are prototypes, not final product. There are a few rough edges, holes are not yet holes, and I presume the CF was laid a bit quickly. Even with the final product, you will know that this is hand-laid fiber. To me, that's a plus -- and similar to the rest of the CF bits on my bike. If you're not okay with that, walk away.
First up, a pic of the humps: Prototype at north. Note that this was an attempt to replicate the more satin finish of the vacuum-method pieces. I am not a fan.
Next up, the side cover. Original on right. If people want these, we should figure out what to do about the depression for the gummy stickers (wanted or not).
Next, a close up of the samples of the Kevlar weaves. They are leaning against the prototype side panel with regular 2x2 CF weave.
-
4
-
1
-
-
I'm baaaack.
Sorry for the long, long delay and being incommunicado. Summer seemed to have other plans for me. I did manage to get down to Gettysburg and talk to the CF guy. He's made a couple prototypes for me and I'll share some pics of what I've got in a follow up post shortly (it's really hard to get a decent photograph of carbon fiber parts).
When I first went down there some months ago, I left with Greg three pieces: 1) a OEM plastic seat cowl to model, 2) my aftermarket (presumably) non-vacuum mold seat cowl for comparison to 3) my OEM vacuum-molded CF side panel.
To clarify, as I understand it, there are a couple different CF processes, including: 1) where a vacuum is created that sucks quite a bit of the resin through and off the carbon fiber, leaving a thinner, lighter, less glossy finished product; and 2) a standard process whereby much of the resin remains on the finished surface, rendering a somewhat glossier finish and more robust piece.
My Tenni, between the seat cowl, side panels, front fender, hugger, gauges thingy, and starter cover, has at least three different finishes. My initial hope was to match the seat cowl (tail hump -- what are we calling this thing now) to all of the other CF pieces (excepting the hugger). Unfortunately, that is not possible with the manufacturer. Frankly, it may not be desirable for the tail hump anyway, from a durability standpoint.
Anyway, although I had only taken the side panel so Greg could see the finish I had originally hoped for, a little (potentially fortuitous) miscommunication resulted in him making a prototype of the side panel, too.
I like the prototypes well enough to commission a better mold and a batch of tail humps. I'm not opposed to doing the same for the side panels. Cost is not going to be prohibitive, but it may change a bit with inflation, so I'm not going to quote any prices. I'm pretty sure I can make my initial outlay. Since I hadn't spoken to any of y'all about the desirability of side covers, I told Greg to go ahead with the seat cowl and that I'd get back to him on the side panels. So, let me know if you are gung ho on the side panels and I'll have those reusable molds made up, too, if there's enough interest.
As for the options, I got a sample of the red and the blue kevlar weaves. I like them both. They are very understated and would only really pop in bright sunlight. Kevlar weaves will be about 50% more $$$ than standard 2x2 carbon weave.
Photos coming shortly. Thanks for your patience and understanding that both the manufacturer and I have other things to do as well. For his part, Greg recently had a joint replacement and is still getting around a bit slowly. He and his family business have more than enough dragster bodies work and he only took this on because he thought it was a cool project. We are at least several months away from having finished products. He and his daughter are very nice folks and I know they will do their best to get us high quality stuff.
Cheers,
Frey
-
1
-
2
-
-
Okay. Tried a few things this morning.
First, no fuel cap, with the old spark plugs gapped to 0.6mm (spec per owner's manual, but wider than the 0.5mm I previously had them at), I still had bucking.
Then, I looked up the factory spec on NGK BP6ES plugs (0.8mm gap), and set them accordingly. Engine wouldn't start at all.
Then, I reset the gap to the 0.5mm I previously used (still with no fuel cap). Started right up and warmed it up a bit. Once choke was released, I started getting popping and chuffing.
So, maybe I have a fuel mixture issue. Maybe an air leak?
Other notables based on comments elsewhere:
- High test wires and spark plug boots are new
- Carburetors were stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt
- Fuel petcocks and filters were replaced (and I did away with the electrovalve in favor of simplicity)
-
Thanks, Pete. I'll give it a try. Not sure if there's a best practice to make a vent hole in the cap. It's the old plastic fuel flap with the spring-loaded stopper. The stopper doesn't appear to have ever had a hole in it, excepting the little square one that accepts the post from the flap. If I'm to drill a vent(s) hole in it, what size would be appropriate?
Pete Roper V11 slosh trays now available!
in 24/7 V11
Posted
If my suspicion is correct, appears my learning I may need one happened a week too late. Anybody else have one lying around?