Pressureangle

When I was going through the Sport upon it's arrival, I found the airbox full of tar, and it took 4-5 times of very serious chemical assault to clean the mung out of the TBs and throttle plates. I used an entire can of carburetor cleaner, and nearly an entire can of TB/intake specific cleaner to get 95% of it out. I've never seen anything like it. The odometer showed only ~20k miles, but the bike's obviously been down so it's possible it isn't the original.

I've installed the WebCam 86b in my '85 LMIV. .447/.447 298°/298° 260°/260° 86b Though this cam has numbers very similar to the Megacycle 620x7, it has very, very good street manners and low rpm tractability. I haven't dialed in the top end yet, but it's already considerably faster above 5k rpm than my stock Sport i. The difference that doesn't show in the numbers is that the Web cam requires larger diameter lifters, because the lift rate is faster sooner than the Meg cam; that means the valve opens more 'curtain area' (exposed area between valve and seat) sooner in the cycle, and flowing more air off-peak. That translates into not only equal or better performance at peak rpm, but better characteristics off peak and smoother power curve throughout the range. I can't leave well enough alone, and the work and expense of installing the Web probably wasn't worth it simply for the improvement difference (never rode the Megacycle so I'm speculating) but it was as much an academic exercise as anything. The roller rockers need a bunch more valve spring to get to peak power, with R&D springs it's limited to 7k rpm before losing valve control. Here's a pic album showing the restoration with pics of what I had to do to install it. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6lOTNerG1sbqs9QkvBwZIQSc6AvZKZD28FDiehtuVaPt8g8hU3yUGBNH2MFwddQ?key=MTgwQ05SWlZyeW9scDZIdHNHdUw4Z2NIaXptWnZR

Excellent vid and explanation. The Norton doesn't lend itself well to crankcase venting because it's a close-case dry sump. Is yours a Colorado Norton Works reed, or something you made yourself? (I have a '71 Fastback in the works, apart and researching) The Guzzi has a lot of places to put a vent up high where oil can separate before it reaches the vent- even the stock place isn't bad, but the limitations are obvious. A hosed reed like yours in the distributor hole or I think at the top of the timing chest would be great.

The subject of crankcase pressure has the same voodoo about it as balancing v-twins, quench clearances, and oxygenated fuels. Every engine design is different, so each requires a particular vent layout, with the goal in mind-and that goal is a moving target in some engines. The Guzzi big block has, by comparison, a huge crankcase volume so pumping losses are far less than something like a H-D Sportster with it's huge flywheels and dry sump, or a modern motocross 4-stroke. For nearly all riding styles, the factory venting is perfectly adequate. The theory behind a reed valve is that the overall crankcase pressure is reduced; it is, and with proper design reduced by a lot. Reducing crankcase pressure to a point is good; it reduces piston effort to some degree, but most importantly and sort of in the shadows is the density of the air moving in and out. Denser air carries more oil vapor, mixes more with vaporized and slung oil, and creates a tighter vortex around the crankshaft (I had a friend in Roush's durability lab, who said a v-6 buick at 8000rpm could carry 8 quarts of oil in the crank vortex, starving the pump) and has a higher velocity moving through the holes in the breather. Adding the reed valve raises the point pressure a tiny bit, but eliminates entirely the return air; creating a partial vacuum in the case. Lesser pressure in the case facilitates oil return from the top end instead of pumping air upwards through return holes, etc. Splashed oil has less resistance to get where it's going and return to the sump. The crank carries less oil. It was found, though, that if pressure falls too much- and that can happen if you work at it- there is less than desired air pressure to push the oil out of the sump and up into the pump. A reed valve can never exhaust more air than the minimum crankcase volume when both pistons are down, so it can never overevacuate like a pump or exhaust pitot. It's dead simple, cheap, easy to mount (inline in the hose if necessary) The only real problem is that if you don't baffle it well enough, any oil that gets past it stays past it, and running a non-pressurized return to the sump leaves an open hole and kills the concept. I designed a crank scraper for my '85 LMIV and started with Ishihara-Johnson but sort of lost track of it when my wife passed. I'll stir that pot up again if it would fit your engine.

I'm going to set up a small bottle in line with the breather, and clean out the airbox completely again just to run an experiment. There's nothing to say that these two possibilities are mutually exclusive.

Um, my '97 Sport i has two hoses going from the spine to the pan...? Some engines just don't like being revved up and staying there. In the days of the Daytona H-D 883s, we took the oil pumps from older iron sportsters (-30% volume) and had quart-sized catch cans. Pumping on a common-pin V-twin is enormous. Link to pics? Is it carbureted? I was thinking a reed valve and catch can with return in the distributor hole would be nice-if you don't have a distributor. Something at the top of the timing chest would be good too, if it was baffled to keep slinging chain oil away.

I hate being a gadfly, or worse yet stupid, but well here I am... My Sporti had a boxful of tar when I got it. During the cleanup I removed the box and cleaned it completely. I was surprised to find enough new oil back in it after the first 300 mile highway trip that I investigated pretty good; I found no trace of oil or dampness at the breather inlet nor evidence of oil on the air filter. In fact the breather inlet has a little track of white dust and rust. I was thinking the oil is actually blowback from the inlet valve guides. Thoughts? Who has checked the amount of oil in the airbox vs. vehicle miles/distance ridden/speed etc? If my theory is correct there should be more oil in bikes with more miles, bikes with big cams, bikes ridden with the throttle open farther more often, bikes ridden at high speeds.

RC cola and Moon Pies.

We'll see how it pans out. I'm a bit of a desert rat- I'd much rather be hot than cold, so my primary weather consideration is the Montana mountains. But yeah, OK in the summer isn't exactly a riding Mecca.

Hm. For $20 I'd like some manufacturer and warranty information. I can't find any pressure/flow chart for any of these pumps. They have a very small volume requirement relative to automotive pumps, yet are not much smaller in size. For 100hp should need only 10gph, and the smallest automotive pump I can find is about 35gph. I may have to do some testing...Anybody have a fuel pressure regulator laying around?

Cheaper. Nice web site chooser too. https://www.highflowfuel.com/ag-1313565.1313653.1315228.1317411.1313567-motorcycle-scooter-1997-moto-guzzi-1100-sport-inj-bj-efi.html

Any 12vdc pump that delivers correct volume and pressure will work. It seems that somewhere I saw that particular Quantum pump listed as a direct replacement. That's the one I was thinking of ordering. I'll have to research specifications and warranty.

Alas. Somewhere in the ~3TB of crap I've collected over ten years and 3 computers is a vid of the first startup, but I never have made a proper one of the Charger. I only have a crap one of the 1100 by the phone, at idle. The car is trapped in the garage by my Son's travel trailer at the moment, but I'll get out the GoPro for the bike and give the car a snort, it should be started and warmed up anyway.

Painful. I don't understand the question? What I mean by ride-along is, if I'm passing through your area and you have some nice riding roads, or just want to put in some miles towards my next destination, that'd be cool.

I'm planning a very long trip this summer, if I prove I can stay on the bike long enough- so far so good. I don't have a schedule yet, but If you're near the route and might like to have lunch or a ride-along, pin yourself in Yellow on the map. I'll be staying West, FL/Dallas/OK/CO/MT/WA then returning down the coast through the SW. http://j.mp/2DMOWhB

My new-to-me '97 1100 Sport i has ~21k miles on it. I've been through all the electrics, replaced the cam sensor, TPS, remade connections and replaced all the relays. New hoses through the entire fuel system. Everything seems fine. Except for that one single time, in the driveway after a cleaning when the pump didn't start, and a light whack with a screwdriver handle set it going. Now I'm nervous, and I'll likely just replace the pump. It's 20 years old, even though low mileage and is out front in the air. What's the group experience with external pump life?

505" RB with Holley dual quad EFI, A/C, cruise control, Hemi 4-speed with Passon aluminum case, Gear Vendors Overdrive, 3.55 gears for touring 4.10 for fighting. Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Irving Vincent.

Sooo... Docc picked this out of my photos. I've owned it since I was 18. Found it in Alabama in front of a trailer park for $300 in 1980. Drove it home to Michigan with no brakes to speak of. Drove it 'ratty muscle car' style for decades, finally gave it the love it deserves in 2011 and did two Hot Rod Power Tours in it.

I'll have to measure the wire, source it, unwind the coil and count turns then re-wind it and solder it in place. Pretty fine work. My broken wire was the one from the inside of the coil, broke right close to the coil wrap where it peeks out the side. Had it been the outside wire I'd have given up one turn and had plenty to work with.

Dan Stern (linked above) supplied the bulb and ceramic lamp plug, which will not melt or distort from the additional heat. FWIW I only use the high beam at night, with no oncoming traffic so use is limited to cooler running. Also, adding relays increases voltage which reduces current on the plug.