Pressureangle

Just center it up and you're good. Run it up and down just to be sure something won't snag, but I don't think there's enough latitude for adjustment to cause any trouble.

Well, I hate to do it but I have to drop out this year. Just too much going on elsewhere to make it work. Boo Hoo. I really hate to break routines. 2 more rooms and 3 garage spots opened up.

Well, if I had the air conditioned, ridiculously comfortable pole barn and another 6 zeros to burn I'd just buy every one I see. Which is probably precisely where this one lives, given it's address. To be continued

Figured since it's fairly local I'd post this up- Facebook marketplace. 1997 Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport Injected 6700 miles only Fresh out of the shop from being mechanically restored New fuel pump,filters ,fuel lines, sorting of any issues & ready to burn Florida bike $5400 obo https://www.facebook.com/share/1Z5nhbxco2/

I have to expedite my own self too... waiting for transmission seals and lock washers. Then discovery of what else is missing. Guess I'll go order tires now

You will have to lift it high. See this thread on Wildguzzi.com for some samples, and method to restrain the bike on the stand. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=110569.0

We have to teach Grok to refer to it as 'The Rusty Star Picket Project'.

On the way.

Nah... history and sentimentality sell... and well, China. I think it's a brilliant start, they've made it a tourist destination second only to it's purpose as a factory. So someone with access to the checkbook understands their brand-loyal customers. The blindingly obvious black hole of vision is support for older models; look to John Deere and to a lesser extent H-D and Union Pacific for frothing fans. I can go to John Deere and expect to find deep support for my '53 AO. H-D still carries parts for Iron engines. U-P has spent a frightening amount of money returning Steam to the rails, for nothing more than PR and it pays off exponentially. If Mother Goose can fill that hole, they'll become a major brand again. I think. I hope.

Methinks we need a 'coffee stop' thread.

ah, I've seen that but never had to repair it. Standard hdpe tanks are simply blow-molded. This stuff is a bit 'stringy' on the edges, yes? This is precisely why I said you need to know *exactly* what material you have before you start. Good stuff.

Volvo earthmover fuel tanks are HDPE. It is very easy to weld repair, given the right equipment and filler; I cut pieces from ruined tanks as filler and patches.

Arr, the ol' Pirate's bane. Plastics have been lamented since they first arrived. Every type of plastic has it's own very specific requirements for bonding. Some bond to nothing, not even themselves. ABS plastic is problematic but not impossible. I worked at a heavy equipment shop, and to repair punctured fuel tanks (who puts a fuel tank under the loader where branches can stab it, anyway? *volvo*) we purchased a hot-air plastic welder. It worked fabulously on Polyethylene, and after some testing and practice just as well on ABS. It's critical that you discover the method to test and verify plastic type or you'll find not everything is actually made of what it's commonly called. I don't know the specific on V11 plastic, but I do have a couple pieces that could use some help. The idea with the air torch is that it's hot enough to melt the plastic while controlling exactly how soft it gets, and without risk of changing the chemistry of the plastic with flame or overheating. Mostly you simply choose the correct type of plastic welding stick and heat the base and stick together, melting the failure together. In practice, it's a delicate balance and while not hard to make a solid repair it is much harder to make a *pretty* repair. Preparation helps just as it does with metal welding, creating space in the crack to increase surface area without affecting the finish on the visible side. Using a small battery powered drill to spin the filler stick also makes things much more solid, but takes an even more practiced hand. iirc the welder kit cost something like $700 in 2005, but I'm sure inexpensive chinese kits can be had within a budget now. Hm...

I have towing per-vehicle on my Progressive policies, for cars and bikes. Altogether ~45/yr I have AAA as an add-on to a friend, something like ~$15/yr? I also have Hagerty towing for my '68 Charger. They recently changed from 'any household vehicle' to only listed covered vehicles. Nevertheless. Seems like a lot, but I got wrecked towing the bikes on a trailer and only mixing and matching got everything home without cost. Progressive towed the truck, AAA paid to tow the trailer. Worth it.

...but not actually wrong lol

This is the Way.

PM me. ___________ Docc- 'What is the TPS setting procedure on this system?' The MyECU is set up the same as always, set your TPS to ~157(?)mv. HOWEVER you can, and should, verify that the system is also set to the same value- the system can use any TPS value as a baseline.

Yes, and since they'd be CNC machined I'd have both hole positions. On second thought, I'd probably just make them all in the RP position and suggest a plate go with it if they don't have one already. Really should time-sert the lower hole too, but those kits are too expensive to include... but if any listers need it, I have it and for the price of postage and the insert itself I'd make it available.

Looks like a closed-die forging to me. This is on the list of bits I'd like to make new and maybe improved but forgings are prohibitively expensive for small quantities, and complicated enough that billet is no better. Sooner or later I'll have one loose to have examined and quoted.

mmm. Garage is destroyed so I can't lay my hands on my spare ECU. iirc I had to get the MyECU because the stock unit isn't tunable, or perhaps GD wasn't invented yet... I have a lot of time in mine, probably less trouble to PM than to make a long thread.

Ah, the Red Green wars. Those were the days.

That's an interesting bit of WTF. It's good policy and mandatory on many auto/truck manual units to indicate the bellhousing for concentricity, using offset dowels to correct. iirc the '51 Waukesha monster I rebuilt had a max runout of .003" allowed. Pity it would be so hard to verify in MG.

The solenoid itself draws that much? iirc the starter itself draws ~80A in good condition.

Well dang, all the rebuild/finished pics are buried somewhere in a hard drive that predates Google Photos. Meh. Here's how I found it.

Uncertain. I haven't been home since the Moto Grappa Gala. August is V11 month, if all the parts have arrived and I don't get any rude surprises it shouldn't be too hard. If I ignore all the other semi-pressious tasks that have piled up. Then I have to find a dogsitter... gah