Pressureangle

Precisely.

So, now I got a wrecked '94, and engineless '95, and a broken '94 in San Antonio. What to do? I get a call from my maniacal friend in Maine, "Hey we're going to Alaska and you're coming with! Leaving July 4th!" uh... BMW GS is in El Paso, me, dog, and busted truck are in Kerrville, TX. Shop owner can't work on it because NAPA doesn't sell a crank and he is contractually prohibited...*@*!. But he says, "My Father-in-law and Nephew ride to Alaska every summer. Don't miss the trip, the truck is safe here as long as it needs". Shoutout to Kerrville Auto Repair. So me and dog rent car back to El Paso, fire up to meet in Yellowstone. They get hit with 4 days of rain, so I ride East to meet in the Black Hills. Back to Yellowstone, Glacier, and North! to Alas... alas. Weather turned very sour and time was short so back to Maine. I pulled off at Michigan to visit parents and back to figure out what to do when...what's that next to the garage but the '04 GMC Yukon XL 2500 I bought for my Mom a decade earlier. She quit driving a couple years after, it got used by family until..different sad story about poor economic choices and new vehicles...sad thing sat with 2 inches of water in the floorboard because they didn't tighten the battery and the sunroof forgot where it was and wouldn't close. I charged the battery and drove it home with nothing more than cleaning the algae off, gas and air to the tires. 8.1 liter tow pig with minimal rust and 80,000 miles. Out with the trailer to Kerrville, back home with cranky. Frame is bent on the red one, still moves but nobody will fix it. Found a good used rolling frame in Michigan, that'll come home eventually as the last priority. Then gotta cull the herd.

In the sad times I sat staring at the empty engine bay of the '95 diesel, needed something to drive so found this purdy nice '94 2500. 6.5 turbodiesel, 3.74:1 gears, 7200# GVW. Drove it near 20,000 miles fairly happily. Had some weird drivability issues, finally failed in El Paso- took the best part of 2 weeks to find a pin pushed back in a harness connector, buried on the firewall that went from a marginal/intermittent ground to no circuit. Fixed it and Yeehaw! Man ran so good, so smooth. I was getting 17.4mpg @ 72mph when the crankshaft broke near San Antonio. I checked the harmonic balancer before the trip, and have a Fluidamper under the bench...got a little lazy and took that last trip. Turns out whomever fooled with it in the past didn't get the balancer tight and the bolt backed out- the 6.5 serpentine pulley covers the bolt so you can't see it. Famous for breaking cranks with bad balancers. Current Status; busted crank, middle of priority pile. Had a heck of a time finding the same bumper as on the wrecked one, but found it used/new in CA. Shipping included was still only 2/3 new price. No longer manufactured.

...so I bought this one, a '95 heavy 2500 with no motor. I was just going to stuff the 400 in it, but discovered there's far too much work to convert from the missing diesel. So I bought the engine that came out of it from the guy I bought the truck from, rebuilt the engine and now it's the family workhorse. 8600# GVW, 4.10:1 gears, Full float rear axle. Bought new by the Florida Forest Service, so got minimal options (basically just A/C) and well looked after, other than the also factory-installed blown head gasket in the 6.5 diesel. Current daily driver alongside the... oh wait, downthread

The sad story starts here. $3500 from the Oklahoma City fire department, 47k miles and a blown head gasket. Every early '90s 5.7 came from the factory with blown head gaskets. Best truck evar. Built a 400 with Dart heads, pulled like a bull. Winchy thing keeps the Ohio deer out of the radiator, and median dividers out of the passenger compartment. Thanks, bald-tire Lexus ghetto dwellers.

Just a thread starter. This '57 is gone now, sat in a garage in Ohio for 30 years until the lady made us take it away to get the other 2 cars, a '57 Chevy tilt-front gasser and a '70 Plymouth 'Cuda 440 dual-fendertag in Purple. Took about 2 hours to get it running; put brakes on it and sold as is as a daily driver to a very happy fella.

It's a long tale, fraught with danger, despair, and rebirth. I'll PM you. Or maybe start a thread in the 'junk folder' lol

Hard to believe this much trash can accumulate unless it's had a new clutch already...frictions are ok thickness, except the forward-facing surface (engine side) of one plate is noticeably thinner than the rest. I thought the flywheel had serious grooves until I poked at it. It's in good shape, but needs a thorough cleaning. The pressure plate is a little dished, and the center steel is slightly warped and dished. Meh. I'll price the parts, then maybe we'll see exactly what it takes to install the RAM clutch in a 6 speed.

It's for removing the pressed-on bearing race from the end of the shaft. I could have made do with even the butane torch, but this heats consistently and controllably. I'll check with the temp gun until it's at temp and knock it off if it doesn't fall. But I do have a driveway full of '90s pickup trucks that need suspension work too.

Perfect. Since Dave Blue did the recall, I have to assume that the compensator has been changed as it's part of the kit. Next up; bearing race off and wait for bearing. $9 from Harpers, but a pre-order. $46 including shipping from Quality Bearings Online to have it Wednesday. Gotta get the injectors out to send away Monday.

With +60k miles on it, likely it's been done or doesn't need it...the sliders were done by Dave Blue, not clear whether you meant there's something else to consider?

So the compensator shaft wasn't too hard to disassemble- I promise reassembly will happen on a proper shop press lol not snap ring, but two very sturdy half moon retainers. @Docc, you mentioned a recall on this shaft? What am I looking for?

By the book, bearing steel shouldn't be heated past about 230*F, but I've never had one fail from overheating it...not even in my stupid acetylene torch youth. Usually they fall off pretty quick if everything's clean. On stuck/rusty fasteners, yeah hotter is gooder.

It'll be kind to the gear and race I need off, and I have enough rusty iron ore around to repair that I'll save it back in hours, skinned knuckles, breaking heads and drilling threads.

Wuzzat stuff? Italian everclear? I just ordered an inductive heat gun, something I've wanted for a long time but oooo, so much moola.

The output bearing, last thing before the shaft splines, needs replacement. To get at it, the shaft has to be pulled out to the rear through the bearing, and for that to happen the spring pack has to come off- which is held in place with a hard-to-get snap ring, and then the spiral gear and bearing race have to come off for the whole thing to slide out. Meh.

Well if your clutch still works with that, mine should be ok. I'll have a look at the friction components then decide whether to replace them or not. Getting to that output bearing is going to be an exercise in patience, for sure.

Clutches. The clutch is still on the motor, but the trans input hub has enough wear I'll replace it and the clutch. OEM is ~$225 for 2 plates!?! Best option?

For anyone following clutch slave stuff, here's a photo of the Oberon ~2007 slave next to the 2000 OEM.

So impatience wins. This may be the easiest to separate trans I've ever seen. Everything inside looks fab, except for the shift forks which have some humidity warts, but local to them and easily cleaned. The gears, forks, and dogs look *very* lightly used, not a super surprise given what I know of the previous owner. Now on to the stranger danger- This looks like special tools, presses, windowed collars, and heat to me. Anyone? I bet this could come apart fast enough to have Mary Magdalene calling her son for a week.

Sounds like yours is as my original one- wondering why the drawing represents the later one. Meh.

JGP, does your clutch slave piston sit proud of or below the top of the cylinder? The parts link posted above *appears* to have the same slave as I ordered from Oberon, but doesn't fit my 2000- I wonder if it fits single-plate clutch bikes?

Okee, finally got the transmissing on the bench for a lookat. It's had the slider recall done, has a Dr. Phil's shift extender on it, I have the return spring to install should it need that. However The thing has sat for about 8 years with the rear cover off- in a cardboard box, under a bench- dry enough to show only the tiniest bit of surface rust on the gear faces, but the output shaft bearing is tight. I don't see rust, probably mung, but with ~63k miles and I have to disassemble it for the output bearing (Right? It appears to shoulder from the forward end of the shaft) I may just give it all new bearings. Had a search, I didn't see a thread on disassembly...who's holding? I have no shop manual for the 6 speed. I could fake it but I'm very short on time available if it has any chance at all of making the S'n Spine Raid this year.

But how is his poetry?