Pressureangle

Lots of good info, but it's like picking peanuts out of poop. This guy desperately needs Toastmasters.

<sigh> McMaster-Carr has it as cheap as anyone, sure to be quality, and ridiculously expensive shipping. Well, I guess I can just replace all the hoses on everything I own. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/163/9776T31

So say we all. 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r-11cv4x{0%{transform:rotate(0deg);}100%{transform:rotate(360deg);}} @-webkit-keyframes r-imtty0{0%{opacity:0;}100%{opacity:1;}} @keyframes r-11cv4x{0%{transform:rotate(0deg);}100%{transform:rotate(360deg);}} @keyframes r-imtty0{0%{opacity:0;}100%{opacity:1;}} .r-dvqwo{position:absolute;visibility:hidden;top:0;width:50px;pointer-events:none} .r-dvqwo.loaded{visibility:visible;top:50vh;width:50px} I need a hose to carry brake fluid, DOT 4, under no pressure. What is the most appropriate material for such hose to be made of? UV stability is important as a second property. Thought for 23s EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) rubber is the most appropriate material for a hose carrying DOT 4 brake fluid, as it offers excellent compatibility with glycol-based fluids like DOT 4 while resisting swelling, degradation, or chemical breakdown. quora.com +2 It also provides strong UV stability for outdoor exposure, along with resistance to ozone and weathering. rubberandseal.com Since there's no pressure involved, a basic unreinforced EPDM tube should suffice for transfer or storage applications. reddit.com Avoid materials like natural rubber or PVC, which can degrade quickly in contact with brake fluid.

That begs the question, 'What is the correct material for brake fluid hose?'

As much as I like to believe that OEM Brembo hose is some industry secret special sauce, more likely it's the same Chinese sourced stuff I'm getting on Amazon for half price. We'll see what shows up, how it fits, and whether I've wasted $6.

No longer need a bucket, a nice silicone plug sorted it.

Meh. No, neither the reservoirs nor the master cylinders come with the hose- I just replaced both sides on my 2000 V11. The barbs on both the M/C and the reservoir measure 7mm, which comes to .275", or a bit over 1/4". I'll try this one- says 7mm but it states .280"... we'll see. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3-3ft-Rubber-Water-Black/dp/B08MZC17K2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2N3UKYKJHFF5W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.COxJ2-UzaKM-UA4iA0hK-rbkBQwPalfZ4tv7idlzCl17ZTbgr0ajtwiY0D_G5Xbw8i5AkGNQffBhn0wz67GG5n1fJRJtaDqYYOKs8mcmFDoENeVh49my-YIJs1YSqgxfmikbaouwO48WTcNtaIiAW5LzpVFkutMxoguSrzfCmAzGRYEmdHdLZaJzEXQiBX2BaeEqpzLl2A0kn7HjxGWGOjzPmzkyO7HwIpZSBsae6YA.wiX15ixR3X3b5S-vGyCtQkssKXjJOpFRP6tPh69lzow&dib_tag=se&keywords=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose&qid=1762104388&sprefix=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-4&th=1

For a few years now I've tried to beat this disease, but the best cope I can come up with is to try to look at them less and ride them more.

Clean your switches lol

He's been to the doggo opthomologist. Heelers get a genetic deterioration of the retina, and the toxins from debris actually cause the cataracts. He was completely night blind and couldn't catch a frisbee anymore in the daytime before the cataracts showed up. She said we could remove them, but she was not optimistic that it would improve anything.

That was my plan. 'Light connectors'- do you mean the tach connectors? The lamp connectors are on the sockets. BTW who has the cross number for the bulbs?

Small progress. Everything I touched needed cleaning, new fasteners, repairs, bulbs... Tomorrow, fix the per-usual detached tach stud.

Found some nice sized plugs, theads are...workable, so meh

My headlight bucket has had a hole cut in the back of it, perhaps for an LED then covered by a bottle cap and glue. One of the mounting threads is stripped requiring a nut. Anybody have a usable bucket laying around? This one will work but I don't have to like it.

When I was a kid I hung around a garage taking trash, sweeping etc. The boss's toolbox was fairly new, Snap-On before they went real wide. It was so tall it needed a stepstool to look in the top. Well, somebody left too many drawers open at once and the whole thing crashed down onto the full open drawers. I heard more swearing than in Halsey's Third Fleet. I just walked out and didn't go back.

I discovered something I think is *very* important relative to the ~3k rpm gremlin. Fuel injectors; both of my bikes (the V11 before running it, 63k miles) had the injectors cleaned and tested by injectorrx.com Both of them had ~8% difference in flow when received, with perfect balance after service. We have only one O2 sensor, which the ECU uses to tell the injectors what to do. It's not hard to visualize what happens when one injector comes up 8% short; the other injector gives 8% richer to bring the average up. So you have one cylinder rich, which probably doesn't matter to the running, just wastes fuel. The lean side, however- consider that at ~3k rpm and light throttle, this is calibrated for light cruise, which is the leanest part of the fuel map. So it's already as lean as it can be and run well. Remove 8% of the fuel from one cylinder and you get lean misfires. Last SSR I was at I recall reporting something like ~3-5 mpg more than @docc (he can correct if he remembers) and my moving average on the road was close to 50mpg. This was 5-7mpg better than before having the injectors cleaned, and much smoother than before, even after thousands of miles of fuel tuning, cam gears, tune up, etc.

Seems somewhere in the past I read that Kawasaki bond, Hondabond, and a few other OEM sealants were 3M Threebond packaged for them. Great stuff. I don't usually put anything on gaskets unless I know it's a problematic spot, like something older that's not quite straight or dinged up from ham-fisted scraping in the past. The MG sump gaskets appear to have a thin sealant coating or saturated something that seals them up, as they leave a very thin mark or layer when disassembled, if they were assembled dry. Relevant to the Roper plates, the surfaces are well-finished, flat, rigid, and have a lot of bolts so I suspect that any good sealer could be used in place of gaskets. Applying sealer to the upper, well that's inconvenient and quite likely a bit oil contaminated if it hasn't sat overnight and well cleaned. There's potential for excess to squeeze out and enter the oil. The only weak reasons not to use the gaskets is cost, and the misalignment of the kickstand bracket, neither of which is costly or difficult.

I like the more refined term, 'Enlightened self-interest'.

Not intended for pressurized joints. Stuff like base gaskets, crankcase segments, gearcases. That said, the Roper plate and block/sump surfaces are nice flat joints of high quality material. And we don't carry 80psi of oil pressure. Would not take long to know it doesn't work.

I don't remember where I learned the history of Hylomar - we used it at H-D, but not at the factory's recommendation. It was developed by Rolls-Royce to join 'non-precision' joints in aircraft, as during wartime production quality was imperfect, gaskets cost money and took time to replace and carry in inventory as mechanics had to scrape and replace them. Hylomar seals joints that carry lube well, doesn't harden, and applies easily. Good stuff. I used to use it as a base gasket on the racing sportsters, as we got another .015" of compression by eliminating the gasket. Never leaked. Would probably work in place of gaskets on a Roper plate, but I was scared to try it...if I have either of mine off I'll use Hylomar instead of gaskets and see how long it lasts.

BMW has a similar problem with the in-tank hosing, one piece notoriously leaks and fails. I wonder if this pre-formed high quality replacement could work on the MG too? https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-uhose808.htm

Can never have enough good grounds. I can't speak to historical anecdotes, but on mine the case ground disappears into the harness, and if experience is a teacher it probably goes through at least one connector and to a frame lug with paint on it. Prone to failure. An extra ground wire with a proven path is little cost in time and materials at least for peace of mind. I also see that some ECUs are upside down- mine and Docc's early have the backside with harness connector on top, mounted to rubber vibration isolators. This must be a year/production split. On my '97 sport, the regulator ground was through the painted fairing frame, through the painted fairing frame/frame joint, through the painted frame/engine/trans joints, to the main ground lug on the transmission. I ran wires connecting points across all of these joints. Your ECU operates obviously with a ground, but your injectors in particular are fired by what they call a pull-down circuit- that is, they are switched on the ground side (on most EFI, not certain here) because the current load on the switches is far less on the ground side than the hot side. So inadequate ground will result in poor injector performance at least.

The ride from NJ can be epic. Particularly if you stop in at Moto Grappa! @Bill Hagan

I think I have time to get all my black swans in a row.

Strangely, a number of auto parts stores have started carrying weatherpak/metripack connector parts for repairs. May be a walk-in find.