Pressureangle

Plowing through the parts fisches at Harpers, the first thing I could find that takes a different slave arrangement from this V11 is the 2007 8v Griso. I wonder...if I could bore the case and use the Griso bearing bits and pushrod. I have to inventory everything now that I have the transmission in hand, I have the throwout bearing and pushrod but haven't seen the bearing/pushrod hat. Meh. Looks like everything is very different, and the correct slave is only $90.

I dunno...that's a noise my dog makes.

oh btw who with a 2005-up needs a nice shiny new red slave cylinder?

Whelp, back in town for a few weeks... The Oberon clutch slave arrived, and it's a no-go. The bore is 2mm wider, and the piston is completely different. A question not clearly answered is, 'why was this transmission taken out anyway?' It appears that someone had tried to remove the clutch slave, and the case finish around it is destroyed- so either it's been bled a lot of times or it was leaking badly, or both. Two screws came easily, the third had evidence of failure and did not come easily, though with proper tools and technique it came out without horns or heat. So I'll assume the poor bike fell to ruin over a clutch slave cylinder and some misunderstanding.

Given the ... marginal ... state of ground circuitry from Italy, it's entirely possible that you have a wire rubbed through on the framework, with a slight touch introducing voltage into a poor ground, neutralizing the ground path to your tach (and other stuff maybe) You can do some testing by comparing voltages- across battery + to ground, battery - to ground, and ground-to-ground across different points. It's not a guarantee that you'll see a differential, but if you do it's a certainty that something needs to be addressed.

The piece itself is fairly simple to make, but as with all things the discovery of appropriate materials and dimensions takes time, and research time pays the same as machine time. I haven't seen a full picture of an alum flywheel but I'll assume the ring gear is steel and shrunk on; back in @Chuck's day it was common enough to install new ring gears when they wore out. So you wouldn't have to cut or source a new one, just calculate interference so it don't bust or fly off.

To be clear, part of the discovery here is not simply to stop pulling backwards (light touch) but to purposefully weight the bars forward. As Pete has said, the windshield and bags which I hadn't taken into account may add more to the poor feel at speed. Give the bars as much weight forward as you would a set of clip-ons, that will tell with certainty whether the wind and your bar pressure are any or all of the problem.

I found that it's much easier to install the rubbers onto the engine side first, as it's stable. Then the throttle bodies into the stable rubbers.

Back in ol' Sportster days, every single one of them got loose stem bearings; there is a very specific procedure for tightening them and if too loose the bike would weave and worst case death wobble. Perhaps that got serviced?

I'll field this (not in Pete's place) When you feel this instability, lean forward and push the bars forward to see if it stabilizes. High-speed weave is less a function of brand than of wind pushing you rearward causing you to pull on the bars, which are engineered to have some weight on them. The dynamics are aeronautic-level complex but not too hard to cure once you see the symptoms. You can find hundreds of examples of wind-weave on YouTube- right up to 'tossed off hard'. Worst that can happen is I'm wrong.

On another fanatical note, the T1 trust has secured an assembly facility in Denison, Ohio less than 2 hours from my shop. I'll be discovering whether I can force my way in to touch anything. https://prrt1steamlocomotivetrust.org/

I grew up climbing on this devil, the equal of the Big Boy; arguably stronger and slower, the Lima locomotive works 'Allegheny' at the Henry Ford Museum. Every summer there was a steam excursion from Dearborn, MI to Ft. Wayne, IN. I worked in a print shop across the street from the tracks, and over all the machinery you could hear the 2-8-4 Nickel Plate Road Lima Berkshire 765 thundering and sounding so far away we had plenty of time to shut down and run out to watch.

To be clear, they carry oil from inside the engine to the oil cooler hose connections on the outside of the sump ring.

My 'Sport did exactly that twice, upon which I installed an LED voltmeter to discover that the voltage (upon recharging the battery to full) was very weak, ~13.8v, and got worse with heat and distance. The short story is the connections of the yellow leads between the stator and regulator (under the headlamp on a 1100 Sport) were fried, causing high resistance. This connection is under the tank alongside the frame. I eliminated the bullet connectors and voltage went straight back up to ~14.5v and has stayed there now for a few seasons.

You can't just swap sides, you have to swap them on the coils as well.

I've measured mine a few times with different gear oils- never had the opportunity during a good high-speed long thrashing, but in 'spirited' riding my rear drive has been between 135-170* depending on specific conditions and oil choice. A rule of thumb is that if you can keep your hand on the item in question for more than 5 seconds the temperature is below 150*.

FWIW rather than dremel clearance, flinging tiny chips everywhere, I'd locate the contact point between case and bracket with layout dye, or even a sharpie and some care. Then centerpunch your point and use a drill, somewhat larger diameter than the pin to sink the clearance. A bit of grease on the drill bit and some care in the work area guarantees you don't get swarf in the engine.

Ah geez... I will probably have the BMW in El Paso by then, and have family in Reno... OTW.

That'll be me. Ooo, pretty colors! What shall it be? lol Red. For all the world to see.

https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinders

It does; mine was frame mounted, I installed it across the front in the airflow. The body is just a tiny bit smaller, so it's not as tight as the stocker but good.

I've had the Quantum pump on mine for...7 years? and about 15k miles. iirc Quantum has a meaningful warranty.

This has been on my list for a very long time. SOON

Oberon, who made my gas tank filler cap, also makes v11 clutch slave cylinders. I'll need one myself shortly. They have their own eBay store. It seems their website only shows back to 2005- can anyone confirm fitment for prior years? I don't know why MG would have changed it later. https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/moto-guzzi/moto-guzzi-clutch-slave-cylinder

Hey , did you do anything more about your frame situation ? Happened across a rolling frame in Michigan, oddly enough no meaningful rust. It'll come home next time up, July.