Pressureangle

We're fine, if stiff with some sore spots. The Himalayan got a slightly bent shifter, the LeMans got a tiny bit of broken fin on the sump with scuffed paint on the lower fairing, and the 'Sport needs some filler and paint on the bodywork and the seats are usable but nicked up. There's an oil leak somewhere and the cooler took a minor hit from the wheel chock. Mirrors and T/S damage. Overall, insignificant. The trailer needs some heavy repair at the tongue and mounting points for fender/lamps. The truck, well, we'll see. There's minor frame damage, certainly repairable but not necessarily economical as it doesn't book well enough to warrant collision coverage. I may actually hire a traffic attorney to sort out the towing and insurance- 2 trucks x 100 miles was $3500 to get it all home, and there are 3 separate road service policies to sort out. The one silver lining is that I actually carry collision on the 'Sport so I'll recover all but the deductible. The thing that grinds my gears worst of all is that I have front and rear cameras in the truck, which record on a 30 second cycle; I turned the key off before the cycle filed itself so I have literally days of record and the only one that mattered is missing. If you have a dash cam, put it on a separate switch from the ignition. It's engineering stupidity to have a device that depends on the vehicle's battery for critical events, it should be built with an internal battery or capacitor that allows file completion in the event of electrical failure. Grr. That all said, it was a fantastic Spine Raid and we all had a magnificent time. Already looking forward to next year, and looking towards some 'pre- raid travelling around there next season (as this season is quite obviously at an end). Thanks for asking after us.

Well. 1.5 hours from home got jackknifed from behind in the rain. Truck hurt bad, trailer hurt bad, relatively light bike damage- mostly my sport- but they stayed on the trailer. No injuries. Long night ahead. Meh.

Didn't bring the support wagon, no deadblow on board.

Readying for the South'n Spine Raid '22. Went 200 miles yesterday, 55-65mph mostly. All good, 41.5mpg temps in the 90's and sunny. Running up the bridge on the way home, got a couple misfires so today was WTF day. I pulled the spark plugs and realized that I don't remember having new ones since I bought it... they look the part of 25k-ish, and on the 70% dark chocolate side of brown. Huh...I spent a lot of time working out my map on my 10k when I bought it. However, I thought that since the thing runs so much better with Caruso's gears than the chain, I should have a revisit to the fuel map- I installed the map I originally downloaded from the Jeffries website when I first installed the MyECU. The map (Raz's, if anyone's asking) was too lean pretty much everywhere at first and I added 5-15% to it where it needed it. So today, with a new set of plugs in, I snapped in the original unaltered Raz map and well what do you know... it's very smooth and feels perfect so far, with only a teeny leanness while 'coasting' in first gear at 5k rpm. I'll have to leave the heavy throttle testing for the 'Raid. But so far, so good. My partner is joining on her '21 Enfield Himalayan. That was the most of WTF day; since new was hard starting and cold blooded with a tendency to stall at stops. An improved ign switch connector helped, but yesterday after 195 miles it quit without ceremony in the middle of 3rd gear, with zero fuel pump even this morning cold. The slow bulldozer of science determined that there was some sort of unidentified (and undiscovered) debris in the fuel pump- drawing 6.5amps not starting, 2.5a when running, and after disassembly, flushing and reversing now starts every time and draws only 1.5a while running. Now to figure out how 3 are going on the trailer tomorrow.

I buy Timeserts from these guys- https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/metric-kits/metric-kits-/time-sert-1012-m10-x-1-25mm-metric-thread-repair-kit.html The kits aren't cheap, but a lot less than a new caliper. I don't have a 10mm kit or I'd just send it along. If the entry side of the hole is unthreaded, you can use a short insert and install it from the rear. Being such a critical point, I'd expect there is plenty of material surrounding the repair area but give it some consideration. A Time-sert removes just a bit more material than a Heli-coil.

None here are children, Phil. Nobody gets paid. I'm not here for my ego, I'm here to learn and for some community. We all learn a lot from you, and your 'style' doesn't ruffle my feathers. But I won't tolerate a direct insult to my credibility in the form of a Straw Man when a simple follow-up question would have clarified.

Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care. Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.

So yours doesn't look like a sink faucet, clear stream? If it looks like the picture and they say that's good, it's good.

Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection. Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug. Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.

I was roadracing at the advent of differential size caliper pistons. It's simply to mitigate wedge wear, as Docc illustrated above. The mechanism is simple, the larger piston has more surface area, multiplied by the hydraulic pressure so it pushes harder against the pad. It's nothing to do with gassing, it's simply a counteraction to the natural twisting forces applied to the pad, forcing the leading edge into the rotor with greater wear.

Made in USA. I'm in. Even if Valpolini is better, I've never put a second set of paper valve cover gaskets on any of my bikes.

Bill, that sensor is not particularly...sensitive The repair doesn't have to be pretty to be functional. If you like, bring it along to the 'raid and we'll set it right. If at all possible, bring it attached to the bike.

I unfortunately have no overhead available. Hey, it's all about risk management anyway, right?

For front wheel service, I put a Pit Bull stand under the swingarm and a small jack with wood block under the front of the sump.

Oof, one more thing to check before the Spine Raid.

I've had mine all over the place. It doesn't seem to make much difference. I've run as low as 24/28. In both the Tail of the Dragon and Running 90+ down the Idaho panhandle between Glacier and Spokane, they were good at 28/30. But lower pressure had a noticeable increase in parking lot effort, so Iv'e kept them at 35 both ends since and it's...still fine. I haven't ridden these Dunlops hard yet but I'll set the pressure for best low-speed feel because it doesn't seem to make any difference in handling or traction below racing speeds. Docc may have the most data on mid- to high-speed curvy roads.

So the exact mileage for the previous post- noting that I never fill all the way to the vent, so a little ~. 44.8mpg. Today's ride of 150 miles, 45-65mph with light traffic got the fuel lamp right on 121 miles again, so I'll assume it's right in the low-to-mid 40's as before. What I see here compared to before the Caruso gears is a big improvement in mileage around town, low mph/low speed, and consistently as good as ever before- which was not consistent. I'll eventually be testing whether I can cut fuel at these cruising speeds. Today's food for thought; my roomie's Enfield Himalayan, just across 2k miles today, quit twice. Both times while hot and stopped at lights in town traffic. The RE's EVAP system is pointed to in anecdotes elsewhere. The second time, I pulled over and shut mine off. When I got her down the road, mine backfired and blew the RH throttle body off the manifold. That's never happened before (a backfire) and I'm blaming both bikes' issues on the increasing crap factor of the sewage they sell out of the gas pumps. Meh.

Took the 'Sport out the past 2 days, about 120 miles each day. Hot and sunny, in the 90s. First day was all 35-55mph, leisurely tooling without a lot of stops or traffic. I was very surprised to find on the fill-up the next morning it returned something over 50mpg- I did note that the fuel warning lamp came on at 102 miles. It has always come on at about half, ridiculously soon, so I noticed the distance. The second day, same weather but mostly 50-65mph, light traffic and a little town. My fuel lamp didn't come on until 120 miles of 127. Next fill I'll report the exact mileage. The notes here are that in ~15k miles the best mileage I've ever seen before is about 45, and that was also in very hot weather with steady open 55-70mph roads. I haven't done anything at all to the fuel system, nor changed the spark or fuel maps from previous rides. Unfortunately I did make more than one change since at once so I can't be specific as to cause. I installed the Caruso cam gears, and I will attribute the majority of the increase in mpg to them as the bike runs so much better at all speeds that it proves better efficiency. It has brand new Dunlop SS Road IVs at sidewall pressure. I changed the trans and bevel lubricant to Chevron Delo ESI 85-140. The last bit is worth watching, as the transmission seems quieter than with the RedLine shockproof although I changed the location of my camera microphone which makes objective measurement impossible. We'll do a temperature check at the Spine Raid to see if there is a meaningful reduction from other oils.

For 'in place' carb refreshing, get some Chevron 'techron' in a bottle from auto parts. Fill the bowl through the fuel line, let work for half an hour then drain. Add a half-pint of Marvel Mystery oil to the tank of fresh non-Corngas, run it through and you'll either be golden, or you'll be taking it apart the hard way. Seafoam works pretty good but I've had awesome results with MMO in both gas tank and crankcase for freshen-ups.

My T/S flasher failed on the last ride. It had been intermittently absent or lit/no flash for some time now. I replaced it with a 20A max (why? Tractor-Trailer?) LED flasher. I had to add a polarity reverser to the base, and remote ground wire. But it's bright and quick! Better than expected. At 1.8 amps, should last forever. Boring, but it's raining today.

I'm going to try adding some Elmer's glue to the motor oil for a couple hundred miles to see if that works

I guess I'll call Harpers, then. This is BS lol

Truth. Risk management.