Pressureangle

My cousin ran a propane truck, called the customer up in the hills to say "I'm coming but it'll be after dark, is that ok?" Response- "Yeah, come on, I'll make some calls..." lol

It don't. Always an interesting reminder when you forget, after you cut the self-retract nubbin off.

The Datsun 240Z got it's appellation (the internal manufacturer's designation) because the Japanese name didn't work in the US- "Fairlady".

We all have spines, in various states of disrepair.

No, the 'Sport has 4 micro relays, same as used in the V11 1997, dunno if it changed from previous years.

I haven't reviewed the relays on the 2000 v11 yet, but my '97 1100 Sport had Tyco 3 relays, and as reputation demanded failed in the high heat of Daytona traffic. Fine again on the ride home, so obviously marginal in normal operation. I grabbed a handful of oem Omron at the junkyard, they were oem in many Jeep products and low mile wrecks are (were) abundant.

I'm going to paraphrase and take licence with Pete's notion- "It's all Bulls**t". The only thing I'll add here is that the larger the "w" spread, the more quickly the oil breaks down. Temperature causes polymerization and cooling reverses. Not that this is any consideration in our case, 'light usage.' Straight weight oil is often recommended for stationary equipment where service intervals are long.

This has taken up residence in my head 24/7 for weeks now

No, it was a strictly Prussian affair.

We made it to Asheville, tomorrow is Wheels Through Time motorcycle museum. Thanks to the Hagans for the hospital ity, and the many new flavors from around the world.

Well, the 'ol 97 came to me in boxes so I don't get to compare-hoping to make the '25 SSR with it...we'll see My 1100 Sport injectors were just slightly worse and a little more out of balance, it made a *huge* difference- I had to take 10% of the fuel out across the board, and of course everything was just smooth and silky afterwards. Had to rebalance the throttle bodies as well.

Here's the results from the injector service. Clearly, it's necessary.

Very smooth, and without a trace of improv. Nice.

I drilled into the bottom of the foot on my '97 to add some material (a bolt head) and discovered that the leg is actually steel cast inside the aluminum body. I'm far more worried about bending/breaking the mount than the leg itself.

YouTuber videos, amirite?

Great data point, I'd not have thought of it unless perhaps it happened to me. Such as with the relic I'm resurrecting now.

Valves too tight?

Just a point to add to the first post. With both my 1100 Sport and my '04 BMW GSA, another dry clutch- when cold they will often block out first gear until the bike is rolled a bit or the clutch feathered. What's happening is the opposite of the clutch dragging, rather that it is releasing so completely that it will not rotate the gears in the box against the cold oil. Sometimes this happens when the gear dogs are in alignment rather than in mesh, and can't move into position until they are rotated slightly. Seems only to happen when cold.

We deal mostly in Nylon, usually forms of Nylon-6. Though we aren't doing any thermal work yet, the mechanical properties are far superior to PETG and it's significantly more heat resistant as well, 350F+ to deform and about 450F to soften to filament. I'd definitely take one or two of these. Hm, not sure the 1100 Sport has the bolt bosses...might have to upgrade that.

Yes, but it wasn't clear to me *what it does*. Perhaps I didn't read closely enough. Upon review, the internal pawl clearance eccentric wasn't mentioned- unless it was through the middle of the thread. Again, to have spent the effort to install that where the early door has only a roll pin, it must have been a real complaint.

My grandmother's wallpaper was flowered in my CK days. Well of course it was. She was a big solitaire player too.