Pressureangle

Hard to believe this much trash can accumulate unless it's had a new clutch already...frictions are ok thickness, except the forward-facing surface (engine side) of one plate is noticeably thinner than the rest. I thought the flywheel had serious grooves until I poked at it. It's in good shape, but needs a thorough cleaning. The pressure plate is a little dished, and the center steel is slightly warped and dished. Meh. I'll price the parts, then maybe we'll see exactly what it takes to install the RAM clutch in a 6 speed.

It's for removing the pressed-on bearing race from the end of the shaft. I could have made do with even the butane torch, but this heats consistently and controllably. I'll check with the temp gun until it's at temp and knock it off if it doesn't fall. But I do have a driveway full of '90s pickup trucks that need suspension work too.

Perfect. Since Dave Blue did the recall, I have to assume that the compensator has been changed as it's part of the kit. Next up; bearing race off and wait for bearing. $9 from Harpers, but a pre-order. $46 including shipping from Quality Bearings Online to have it Wednesday. Gotta get the injectors out to send away Monday.

With +60k miles on it, likely it's been done or doesn't need it...the sliders were done by Dave Blue, not clear whether you meant there's something else to consider?

So the compensator shaft wasn't too hard to disassemble- I promise reassembly will happen on a proper shop press lol not snap ring, but two very sturdy half moon retainers. @Docc, you mentioned a recall on this shaft? What am I looking for?

By the book, bearing steel shouldn't be heated past about 230*F, but I've never had one fail from overheating it...not even in my stupid acetylene torch youth. Usually they fall off pretty quick if everything's clean. On stuck/rusty fasteners, yeah hotter is gooder.

It'll be kind to the gear and race I need off, and I have enough rusty iron ore around to repair that I'll save it back in hours, skinned knuckles, breaking heads and drilling threads.

Wuzzat stuff? Italian everclear? I just ordered an inductive heat gun, something I've wanted for a long time but oooo, so much moola.

The output bearing, last thing before the shaft splines, needs replacement. To get at it, the shaft has to be pulled out to the rear through the bearing, and for that to happen the spring pack has to come off- which is held in place with a hard-to-get snap ring, and then the spiral gear and bearing race have to come off for the whole thing to slide out. Meh.

Well if your clutch still works with that, mine should be ok. I'll have a look at the friction components then decide whether to replace them or not. Getting to that output bearing is going to be an exercise in patience, for sure.

Clutches. The clutch is still on the motor, but the trans input hub has enough wear I'll replace it and the clutch. OEM is ~$225 for 2 plates!?! Best option?

For anyone following clutch slave stuff, here's a photo of the Oberon ~2007 slave next to the 2000 OEM.

So impatience wins. This may be the easiest to separate trans I've ever seen. Everything inside looks fab, except for the shift forks which have some humidity warts, but local to them and easily cleaned. The gears, forks, and dogs look *very* lightly used, not a super surprise given what I know of the previous owner. Now on to the stranger danger- This looks like special tools, presses, windowed collars, and heat to me. Anyone? I bet this could come apart fast enough to have Mary Magdalene calling her son for a week.

Sounds like yours is as my original one- wondering why the drawing represents the later one. Meh.

JGP, does your clutch slave piston sit proud of or below the top of the cylinder? The parts link posted above *appears* to have the same slave as I ordered from Oberon, but doesn't fit my 2000- I wonder if it fits single-plate clutch bikes?

Okee, finally got the transmissing on the bench for a lookat. It's had the slider recall done, has a Dr. Phil's shift extender on it, I have the return spring to install should it need that. However The thing has sat for about 8 years with the rear cover off- in a cardboard box, under a bench- dry enough to show only the tiniest bit of surface rust on the gear faces, but the output shaft bearing is tight. I don't see rust, probably mung, but with ~63k miles and I have to disassemble it for the output bearing (Right? It appears to shoulder from the forward end of the shaft) I may just give it all new bearings. Had a search, I didn't see a thread on disassembly...who's holding? I have no shop manual for the 6 speed. I could fake it but I'm very short on time available if it has any chance at all of making the S'n Spine Raid this year.

But how is his poetry?

Plowing through the parts fisches at Harpers, the first thing I could find that takes a different slave arrangement from this V11 is the 2007 8v Griso. I wonder...if I could bore the case and use the Griso bearing bits and pushrod. I have to inventory everything now that I have the transmission in hand, I have the throwout bearing and pushrod but haven't seen the bearing/pushrod hat. Meh. Looks like everything is very different, and the correct slave is only $90.

I dunno...that's a noise my dog makes.

oh btw who with a 2005-up needs a nice shiny new red slave cylinder?

Whelp, back in town for a few weeks... The Oberon clutch slave arrived, and it's a no-go. The bore is 2mm wider, and the piston is completely different. A question not clearly answered is, 'why was this transmission taken out anyway?' It appears that someone had tried to remove the clutch slave, and the case finish around it is destroyed- so either it's been bled a lot of times or it was leaking badly, or both. Two screws came easily, the third had evidence of failure and did not come easily, though with proper tools and technique it came out without horns or heat. So I'll assume the poor bike fell to ruin over a clutch slave cylinder and some misunderstanding.

Given the ... marginal ... state of ground circuitry from Italy, it's entirely possible that you have a wire rubbed through on the framework, with a slight touch introducing voltage into a poor ground, neutralizing the ground path to your tach (and other stuff maybe) You can do some testing by comparing voltages- across battery + to ground, battery - to ground, and ground-to-ground across different points. It's not a guarantee that you'll see a differential, but if you do it's a certainty that something needs to be addressed.

The piece itself is fairly simple to make, but as with all things the discovery of appropriate materials and dimensions takes time, and research time pays the same as machine time. I haven't seen a full picture of an alum flywheel but I'll assume the ring gear is steel and shrunk on; back in @Chuck's day it was common enough to install new ring gears when they wore out. So you wouldn't have to cut or source a new one, just calculate interference so it don't bust or fly off.

To be clear, part of the discovery here is not simply to stop pulling backwards (light touch) but to purposefully weight the bars forward. As Pete has said, the windshield and bags which I hadn't taken into account may add more to the poor feel at speed. Give the bars as much weight forward as you would a set of clip-ons, that will tell with certainty whether the wind and your bar pressure are any or all of the problem.