Pressureangle

Since when did the Germans constrain complexity to utility?

Not to take a ridiculous side trip, but I can't think of a single WWII tank that was boosted. Aircraft usually, Messerschmitt's variable supercharger was a decade ahead of everyone else's.

My hyperbole and sarcasm is always lost.

Before the fight starts, can we all just agree that forced induction as an addition demands an order of magnitude more development and tuning to the point that you've equaled the engineering of an OEM?

Not a Sport airbox. Couldn't find a picture of an uncovered Centauro airbox.

These are legit, I did the research and bought them myself. Was considering buying another batch to store and toss out all the used spares I have.

Bicycle has been the only physical therapy that's kept me mobile for 30 years. I'm convinced it's the only reason I haven't had to have surgery myself, both knees and lower back. Also, I can't overstate how much benefit in stiffness and joint pain I found in eliminating sugar and reducing carbs from my diet.

Electrical engineers can afford amp probes.

Ok, some easy checks. If you have a multimeter, measure and record the voltage differential across these points; If you don't have a voltmeter to use, a 12v test lamp will work except on the battery cranking voltage. Battery voltage while static vs. cranking Battery terminal to cable Battery + cable to starter solenoid terminal Starter body to transmission house Transmission house to Battery - cable Battery - cable to battery Battery voltage cranking should not drop below 10.5 volts Voltage drop across the above test points should not exceed .5 volts No test across a connection should have sufficient current to illuminate a test light. I just replaced the starter on my Sport-i because it had a seized bearing, which presented as a bad battery. Cranking voltage was ~5.5v.

It was listed for Daytona/Centauro/Sport 1100.

~$230 + $30 shipping. 32k kilometers. Even if I have to replace the u-joints they're unobtanium. This shaft is for Daytona/Sport 1100, the exposed external spring type. Once it's in hand I'm going to present it to a CV joint/shaft manufacturer to see if they can make one with the required specs to refit. I'm sure if it can be done it won't be cheap, but that's just the kind of guy I am.

Scored a good used driveshaft assembly on TLM's webshop. Unexpected and probably wasn't up long.

I knew somebody had a thread on this. I don't close it regularly, and it has never leaked; If it starts to leak I'll get into it again. The knob didn't want to come off without a fight after leaving the threads, I didn't want to risk destroying anything so went with what I could do. I'll bookmark your thread and get the proper sized o-rings into inventory if there's a measurement in the thread.

...installed a voltmeter while I had the tank off. It's grounded to the fairing frame, takes keyed power from an unknown unused plug in the fairing, and zip-tied to the ignition switch housing. Vmeter

While I had the tank off cleaning and sealing electrical connections, I took the opportunity to remove and service the fuel valve. Clearly everyone who has/had one knows what an inoperable nag they become, and I had to turn mine off with pliers this time. I started with the knob, I took the snap ring off and spun it down so I could lubricate the threads. I used 'Fluid Film' wax oil for that. Then unscrewed the filter tower to see inside: petcock It was nasty with white scale, as expected. I used Gumout carb & choke cleaner first, with a bit of poking around with a copper wire to scrape what I could get to. When dried, I viced it and poured a little Marvel Mystery Oil in it, let it soak a few minutes then ran the valve in and out to get the oil into the operation of the pintle. Unexpectedly, it worked a charm and now it's smooth and as easy as I'd expect going past an o-ring or seal or whatever's inside the demon.

Just like that, but Fluke. It's an invaluable tool, no substitute when you need it, but I haven't used it for about 10 years before this. An absolute must for anyone working with electricity- I bought mine when working on electric forklifts. (Hi-Lo? Towmotor? Lift trucks? What do you call them there?)

Ohai, For you guys in the Spineraid garage, the terminals I found and cleaned were not the run switch, they are the brake light switch wires. I went for a ride of about an hour and a half, and the intermittent run fail appeared right at the end of the ride, though very mildly. I'll have the tank off today to investigate all the connections and connectors as well as the relay connections and ignition switch and ECU connections.

Today, I tested; The old starter, when hit with the battery, actually turned- and intermittently spun, slowed, stopped, shook loose and turned again. I performed amp draw (best I could holding the meter and screwdriver) I used a good automotive battery on the old starter, so it may deliver more peak amps than the bike's Odyssey. That said, test results peak observed amp draw; New starter, 54a to start, ~40a turning the motor Old starter; 80a min turning, 394a siezed. I did not miss the decimal point.

Backstory; Starter front bearing locked up on my '97 1100 Sport-i. It appears to be the original starter, but may not be. I replaced it with the $100 'not-Valeo' unit from MG Cycle. It appears that the only difference between the two is the sticker- even the rivets holding the housing together are identical. It fit perfectly, spun fast, started instantly. Never has it started so quickly and easily before, and it's been cold for over a week. Huzzah. To dig just a bit deeper, I've had this bike for ~15,000 miles now. I've only used this new starter one time, but it's apparent that the old starter had been working hard for quite some time- even though the cranking speed never made me think that anything was going wrong. I've had a lithium battery and now Odyssey in it, and with the lithium it cranked and started easier, but the reserve crank on the lithium just wasn't good enough. With the Odyssey, I had to crank it 3-4 times to get it to fire. After the starter locked and the battery 'failed' I brought it home, checked the battery which I thought had shorted and verified that it was in fine shape. Here's the punchline- the locked starter took the fully charged Odyssey to ~5.6 volts while (attempting) to crank. The ECU if it's of standard construction won't operate below about 9.5 volts. So my wager is that this starter had been drawing too much amperage for quite a long time before it seized and gave up completely. I think I'm going to dig out my Amp gauge and measure both the new starter in situ, and the old starter on the bench for comparison; the purpose and question here is, 'is this slow, long-term failure common?'. Has anyone done an amp draw on theirs as a matter of interest in the past?

Can't know until I can start it. After the garage find, I went 4 miles to my lodge and back to the coffee shop where it died. Starter on order. The cheap scary one from MG Cycle.

So, at least Odyssey is off the hook for a failed battery. starter

"Packard style" references the origin in the Packard Motor Company. Loosely, Packard style wires have a conductive wrap around the center conductor to absorb and redirect EFI, as opposed to using center conductor resistance to mitigate EFI. This also reduces the pressure to jump through the insulation, making them far more resistant and durable to rubbing and point failures. Nology is the best, FireCore has proven themselves to be without fault over 10 years of personal use, and I can't recall the name of the company in Cleveland that manufactures their own wires, and may be the source for 'USA' branded wires like Taylor, Moroso etc. which have pretty good history. FireCore and Nology will both custom make wires for you if you give them dimensions. With Nology, it's mandatory since you can't make them up on the bench. As you know, the 'Sport hasn't had any electrical upgrades, so is running with the stock wires and new NGK caps.

Also on my '97 Sport. When purchased, the cam sensor was already bad. When replacing, I carefully moved everything away from the plug leads and coil bodies as much as possible- this really should be standard practice always. Still that dip was there, noticeable to me even after tuning the MyECU. What cured it was the timing gears. I still have no solid explanation for that. I haven't even looked, are the plug cables replaceable? In any case where it matters or I have the opportunity, I use Packard-style USA made plug leads for replacement, or Nology HotWires in critical applications. EFI control is good in both.

Well it was good to see everyone and at least make an appearance... Following the electrical discovery in the garage Saturday night, I came to coffee the following morning, and when went to leave the battery completely failed; 12.54v at rest (low from cranking obv.) to 5.4 while attempting to start. That Odyssey PC545 doesn't have 200 miles on it, a few months old, and has been on my NOCO smart charger no less than 3 times for insurance before this trip. So I put everything on the trailer and watched all the Indiana Jones movies. I never realized how awful the sequels are. Monday, moved the truck to put up the other bike, and the bendix on the truck starter exploded. Literally finger-spin dead. Brand new Powermaster $300 unit with *maybe* 2000 miles on it. So unload the one good bike, bring a starter from NAPA and do a parking lot change. We did get home uneventfully, eventually. Bleah.