Pressureangle

Here's the next question begged; Will 1100 Sport bodywork fit a V11 frame?

Has everyone who ordered a Roper plate received it in good condition? Just making sure nothing fell through the cracks. I have 4 remaining.

While musing about the Isle of Man, It occurred to me that the logistics would be easier and the event more interesting if I shipped the bike into Italy and rode it to IoM...

Bump!

The pipes are BUB. I'm not sure they're the best possible top end performance, but the thing pulls like a dump truck from 1500 RPM with the Web 86b cam.

If you can touch it firmly for 10 whole seconds, temp is 150* or less. Not a concern. The reg body is a heat sink; most have fins to air cool, some sink to the metal base they're bolted to which is why a clean solid attachment is required.

Who's here? Just got in!

I bought this one. I think my throttle sleeve has been shortened a bit from stock, and the rubber grip protrudes enough that I always thought I'd twiddle it a bit to make it perfect, but I have 12k miles on it without twiddling and I'm very happy with it. Thank you for shopping with us! We hope you'll write about your Kaoko Throttle Lock Cruise Control Suzuki GSX-R600 '96-'18, GSX-R750 '96-'18 & GSX-R1000 '01-'16 (With 16.8mm Handle Bar Inside Diameter) while it's still fresh on your mind. -P

Footpeg brackets won't be cast, they are forged. They could be made of steel I suppose. They'd be expensive unless there's demand for quite a few, too. What's the factory price?

$85 in the U.S., maybe more depending on shipping to OCONUS destinations.

For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.

I've traveled a lot this year, oddly. May have to go to VietNam in a couple weeks. Must be the military immunization bloc. BTDT

What's the explanation for the power difference? Intake valve shrouding is the only thing that comes to mind.

I wrecked my knees on the hood of a Pontiac in 1980. My doctor told me ten years ago "You needed new knees years ago". I attribute my ability to get around as well as I do to cycling. If I go a couple months without regular bicycling (for you jokers) I knot up, cramp up and suffer. Cycling is zero impact and high range-of-motion exercise. It's important to get comfortable with clip-in pedals, so you can involve your hamstrings and hip flexors in a balanced effort. I'll second the Magnesium as well, Potassium doesn't seem to help with cramps but Magnesium does. Also, if you have lower back pain, try rolling a towel and using it under your lower back area, even if you're a side sleeper to keep your spine straight. A soft mattress kills me after 3-4 nights, so consider that; if you have a very soft mattress, consider sleeping on the sofa or try putting the couch cushions on the floor and sleeping on them, see if that doesn't help significantly.

I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front. I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered. Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Konis; Upgraded fork springs and FAC dampers. After some spirited if limited local riding, I ended with the forks out of the top triple clamp about an inch. These are the steel clamps, I have no way to know if they're 'original' or 'kit' trees, and don't know the exact difference. Ultimately, the thing was a lumber wagon with the 18", perfect for fast straight riding but with proper setup the 16" is perfectly stable with good feedback and confidence, while being enormously easier to turn in all circumstances. It's possible that the thing just really hated the Metzeler front it came with, but I never tried something else before the swap. So there's no definitive answer, but that there is no inherent problem with the 16" front. You just have to find what it likes.

This is a very old post, but you know how it is. I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans. For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair. So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the two pipes flattened and welded to each other, with no holes in between. Lovely engineering, eh? Perhaps it's better for power, I don't know, but calling it a crossover is a bit disingenuous. I have to wonder what Stucchi has done there. Meh.

The U-joint phasing is critical; that is, the front and rear yokes must be in perfect alignment. Assembling a spline off will eventually kill the joints or gears, unless it shakes your seat off first. That said, if the spline count is even, you can align them at 0* or at 180* with no difference- except that if you put the front zerk up and the rear zerk down, you can grease both zerks without turning the wheel in between.

I have a couple sets, metric and SAE. They're awesome. The only thing you have to mind is if you've drained the entire system, or run new empty lines, they have enough resistance that you may not be able to compress the air in the lines with the master cylinder. Probably not even a potential problem on a motorcycle. They work as advertised, and best part is they don't drip all over when you gravity bleed.

Maybe it was the other forum, but I recall some long threads about one cylinder misfires that were maddening. It was Tonti bikes, but perhaps the same applies here. On my '85 LeMans, I had a weak cylinder- don't recall left or right but to make the long story short, the positive feed to the coils came in on one terminal, then there was a short jumper wire from there to the second coil. A significant number of bikes had that jumper fail, which killed the secondary one. A simple replacement of the jumper wire fixed the problem, but it was a bitch to discover. If your coils are set up this way, a simple measure of resistance in the jumper wire might tell the story and make for a simple fix.

Randy, was the flicker a noticeable event in the past? Always curious.

No idea, and not enough access to the bracket to measure. I'm going to use the 80/20 rule and say Probably.

The bracket is in place on mine, and the bike was so stock and poorly cared for when I bought it I have to believe it is stock.

Ditto reservations.

I might be interested in one of you'd like to reduce your stock to an even two dozen. The simplest thing to do is PM me with your Paypal email, and I'll send an invoice.

I have about 25 of them but not one installed... :/ lol