Pressureangle

https://www.ready.gov/cert Our company in Ohio is in, as am I here in Florida.

I worked on RV's for some years. They're full of Maxifuses. I've seen a lot. What you have here is a classic case of 'shyte Chinese fuse'. See how the terminal spade is as thin as the 'fuse blow' bridge? No mystery here, the fuse is very marginal if in fact capable of seeing 30 amps. I'd wager if you blow it intentionally, you won't see 25 amps. It simply overheats the thin area and over time melts the plastic, and heats all the surrounding contacts. Simply shyte, $0.0001 saved on materials x 5 billion pieces. Find a 30A fuse that doesn't have any thin areas besides the blow bridge. You'll probably have to order online, and they'll cost $5.00 each.

I got ten years out of a PC545 in my LeMans. I tried reconditioning it with an electronic battery saver, but it did not respond, something I did find in Odyssey's literature. Not an option apparently, and lost the very expensive 27 series Odyssey in my Charger because the ground fault popped on the trickle charger circuit while I was out of town and left the battery flat for a couple weeks. No recovery possible. On the Lithium note; I put one in my 1100 Sport-i a couple summers ago. It was...marginally satisfactory. It had great cranking power, but very little reserve- my onboard camera has a parasitic drain for a 'parking' mode, and it took enough out of the Lithium that it wouldn't start after standing 24 hours. After standing in the bike for a year disconnected but for 3-4 short rides, it never did start the bike reliably again. I loved the weight but ultimately went back to the Odyssey.

Hey, it's Winter here and Wintertime Navel-Gazing is the U.S. National Winter passtime for bikers.

Now put that 1.5% on the end of a lever the height of the battery. It's noticeable. No, it doesn't really matter.

Well, it's 78* and sunny here...Kinda like a stripper, though- looks great but can't ride it.

I did some forum searching but didn't come up with enough information to satisfy my curiosity; What is the stock '97 1100 Sport-i charging system? What type regulator? What do you see for charging voltage? Has anyone sourced an adjustable regulator? Curious. Went to start today, Lithium battery has apparently departed; never really had as much reserve as I'd have liked anyway. I'll probably go with Odyssey, but I did like the light weight under the seat.

...All that said, after having a close look at https://www.briskusa.com/ , I wouldn't hesitate to try them if the price isn't ridiculous. They seem to cover all the bases.

Here's a little spark plug science for you; Nology plugs I can attest to the fact that some engines really, really hate platinum or iridium plugs; GM 2.4TC, 1990's GM 5.7 TBI. Every engine type and every ignition type has different requirements and peculiarities. I use NGK BPRs in my 'Guzzis. There is rarely any magic in spark plugs; some engines hate some plugs, but as a rule if your engine isn't race-tuned, you'll never notice any difference. Back in racing days I did find that in an 883 H-D sportster, dual-ground strap plugs gave a hint more power and covered up a bit of rich/lean during carb transitions. That could potentially help our dinosaurs, but I've not tested it.

'94 Chevy K2500 extended cab 4x4- 52,000 mile ex-fire department find '68 Dodge Charger.

Dual plugs have a pretty well known effect on any hemispherical engine. I would suggest that if you simply edit the entire curve above about 1500rpm by the same amount, you'll be fine. Depending on mods, -4 to -8 degrees is probably in the ballpark at WOT. For tuning by ear, use 87 octane, find your audible detonation point (probably about 2500-3000rpm) then back off 4º and run premium. If you have a steady-state dyno with exhaust gas analyzer available, you can get more specific. I'd be interested in any real data you discover along the way.

Once upon a time I bought a lightened flywheel set for my '85 LM1000. It was well-machined and well-balanced. There was little discussion and a bit of a brusque brush-off when I pointed out that my stock flywheel was much thicker than the received part. "No difference, been using them forever with zero issues". Now the clutch gets hot and creeps in traffic when the thinner plate warps from heat. It's almost as if Mother Goose knew there was some issue with harder riding and improved the part. C'est la Vie on me, I guess. Then after a couple hundred miles the painted on timing marks disappeared. Oh well. Then there's another guy, who contributes endlessly to the knowledge of the community without asking anything in return, in contrast to the one who claims expertise but never says anything that someone isn't paying for. The end

There are some long threads on riding gear for long tours; After reading a lot and wringing my hands, I did 10k miles and 8 weeks with an Aerostich Roadmaster suit, long sets of Underarmor, Thorlo socks and Gasolina boots. Aside from collecting a Patagonia thin hoody along the way, it was a perfect combination for credit card touring. I had one t-shirt and one pair of jeans, since I spent all my time riding. I would, though it may be heresy, consider having the bike transported and flying in if I didn't have at least a week on either side of the SSR to make the round trip.

I made the trip from SSR 2019 to Port Angeles, WA last year. There is a lot of...something less than exhilarating...geography to cross between corners. How much time do you have to spend? My first thought was to review the Members Map and see what route takes you near other members, may take a bit of the drudgery out of a couple days. Depending on what you're riding, your tolerance for speed risk and saddle sores, I'd say you might make better time on the secondary roads rather than interstate. I came up from Chattanooga to Little Rock to Shawnee OK, Liberal KS, Denver/Cheyenne/Yellowstone/Boseman MT. The only sufferage was western OK and Kansas in September, but though it wasn't exciting it was new and went pretty fast. Gas stops pushed the 1100 Sport's tank capacity to the limit. It's a trip I wouldn't trade for anything, and I'll do again some day when I can spend a bit more time in the places I wished I could have. <edit> oops ya 2018. Time flies.

I've been riding on public roads since 1979. Although I have a couple friends who've been seriously injured by rear ending at lights, not once has it happened to me; I'll chalk that up to good fortune. I have, a couple times, been threatened by squealing tires as someone slid up behind me. Very bad feeling. One friend says he always kept his bike in gear, so we'll assume it didn't do him any good. Most significantly here, is that *NONE* of those times would I have had any time to think about where I'd go if I dumped the clutch. I may have jumped out into a far worse situation, and for no reason at all since none of these events ended in contact. I pop neutral and roll to the stop at low speed.

OTOH mine spit out 100cc from the rear drive through my thought-through but untested rear drive vent on my 10k tour and came home none the worse for wear with ~150cc in it. If it isn't broken down enough to drain out, it isn't broken down enough to want out, I figure. I've used about every high-end gear lube over the years, and never seen anything quite like the RedLine. I have to say though that I put ~35k miles on my LM1000 with Royal Purple gear oil in the drive and it also passed every test, including 5-10 miles of 90mph+ twice a day to work and back.

Yup. Mine ran well cold, but as soon as it got warm started spitting, running erratically, eventually quitting altogether. Next mornings, cold, beautiful again. I eventually ohmed the sensor on the bench with a heat gun, and it opened every time at about 230*F.

Well...there is a better way to be certain you're adding it to the correct space. Owner's manual, YouTube, maybe somebody here has a relevant photo and can add an arrow?

NOOOoooo... I installed a Jeffries ECU in my 1100 Sport-i and tuned it well enough to take on a `10k tour last year, refined it through the first half, trimmed it the second half, and touched it up a little this year before the South'n Spine Raid. I think I've convinced myself it's close enough to work on the other projects now lol.

Those tiny pushrods are so cute! I'd make a bracelet out of them.

As an tangential anecdote; I play with classic cars, and have a good friend in the restoration business. Primarily he's concerned with Chrysler products of the 60s and 70s. One of his regular customers asked if he'd return to service a pristine MG Midget that had been parked for a decade. He asked if I'd help, because I have some experience with English cars and bikes. After the typical fuel system service and fluid changes, it came to life quite easily, all under the criticism of my friend. "Go-cart" "Tiny motor" "Why would anyone bother?". Needless to say, he drove it around for a full week, taking it everywhere including a car show. When I pressed him to admit it was a good time, of course he did; What we isolated as the true source of the fun was that you could drive the car about as hard as you cared to, without risking limb and license. Banging up through third gear with your foot on the floor and the top down is different but almost as good as blowing the tires up on a '70 440 'Cuda, and a lot less likely to attract points to your license. Point being, I spent most of my life searching for performance improvements in everything I ever owned, only to discover that a great deal of it would have been better spent riding what was there instead of working on it. A 'Guzzi is what it is. Trying to make it something else may be fun and satisfying, but if the actual research and development isn't a good time in itself, it isn't worth the loss of actual riding time. I ask myself, "How often am I actually at WOT?" Rarely. I do, however, take the time to fine tune what's there and I separate projects now so I can pursue what I feel like at the moment. <shrug> Defining the ends to our means is important.

Re; high compression pistons. The historic battle within hemispherical combustion chambers is always between compression and detonation. Firstly, in the U.S., the DOT mandates than anything sold for highway use operate on 87 octane fuel without destroying itself. So, if you're willing to use premium always (who doesn't, anyway?) there is a little room for increases. Here's where things get messy. Firstly, tuning an engine to take advantage in the difference between 87 and 93 octane is something only an expert with a dynomometer, or a very experienced butt and ears, can do meaningfully. Secondly, there really isn't that much difference anyway. If you're capable of such, you're also capable of tuning your intake and exhaust, fuel and timing as is to achieve 80% of the difference with such a mild compression increase. Lastly, altitude and camshaft have huge effect on cylinder pressures, particularly at the medium RPM range where detonation is most prevalent. Hemispherical combustion chambers are the most efficient design from the perspective of (2-valve) valve/flow size and efficiency. But they are the worst for detonation. The most effective counter to detonation is turbulence during compression, which achieves 2 specific things; improves homogenization of the mixture which removes 'dead' or 'late' spots in the burn; and speeds completion of burn which removes unburned mixture from corners which overpressure and detonate. Without enormous and expensive changes, there's little we can do with stock Guzzi castings to improve squish, which creates turbulence. What I did on my LM1000 though, was to carefully measure quench-the actual distance between the piston and head- to be certain it was optimized. The term 'quench' is used, because it's known that the fuel/air mix *cannot* ignite within a narrow margin of distance. That distance is somewhere between .050" and .025". It's typically recognized that the worst contained distance for detonation with gasoline is about .080". You can measure your quench with a piece of soft solder through the spark plug hole, to discover to some degree where you are and if taking a little off your cylinders may have some benefit. IIRC I took about .015" off the LM, which raised the compression by about half a point. That said, it has a Web 86b camshaft, which although has far more lift than the stock cam, also creates much more cylinder pressure in the low RPMs. The combination requires that I retard the timing a couple degrees from stock to kill any apparent detonation. Tuning is ongoing, currently. I always read these back before posting, and I'm never sure they convey sufficiently the information. :/

If you haven't run the engine it's fine. Just flush the clutch compartment out with mineral spirits. You can plug the drain hole with a little piece of wood or plastic, then add a quart of spirits, wobble around as much as you can for a minute and drain it. What little lube stays stuck will be absorbed in the dust and be covered by new dust. Worst possible case is you find it's invaded the friction surfaces (shouldn't have, really, unless you pulled the clutch lever while the compartment was full) and you have to change the clutch, which is your only other option now anyway. Give it a shot. BTW, the hole you're looking into is for timing the engine. There are flywheel marks to use with a timing light.