Pressureangle

I buy Timeserts from these guys- https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/metric-kits/metric-kits-/time-sert-1012-m10-x-1-25mm-metric-thread-repair-kit.html The kits aren't cheap, but a lot less than a new caliper. I don't have a 10mm kit or I'd just send it along. If the entry side of the hole is unthreaded, you can use a short insert and install it from the rear. Being such a critical point, I'd expect there is plenty of material surrounding the repair area but give it some consideration. A Time-sert removes just a bit more material than a Heli-coil.

None here are children, Phil. Nobody gets paid. I'm not here for my ego, I'm here to learn and for some community. We all learn a lot from you, and your 'style' doesn't ruffle my feathers. But I won't tolerate a direct insult to my credibility in the form of a Straw Man when a simple follow-up question would have clarified.

Well Phil, why don't you spell them out for the stupid among us? Listen, everyone tolerates your irascibility because you know your stuff, but you would do well to internalize the fact that you're not some oracle of knowledge. I doubt that there's anything you know about brake calipers that I don't, and that I simply stated the core purpose without flinging academia and gratuitous erudition to people who haven't asked and probably don't care. Let's not turn this place into Wildguzzi, ok? Slow your roll.

So yours doesn't look like a sink faucet, clear stream? If it looks like the picture and they say that's good, it's good.

Until someone pulls a real-life example to present, I'll say that there is *no* case in which an injector should have a steady stream. The entire fuel mixing scheme demands atomization, whether gasoline or diesel. It sounds like the pintles are stuck wide open, which makes no sense unless the computer is demanding it, and not possible on a bench without a signal connection. Here's a video showing how to test the signal to the injectors using a 'noid' light- back in the early days of EFI we made our own with a 3- or 6- volt dc light bulb, soldering wires to it to shove into the harness plug. Edit; sorry I missed the previous mention of noid lights. You can simply make your own from a 6v taillamp bulb or flashlight bulb and some thin wire.

I was roadracing at the advent of differential size caliper pistons. It's simply to mitigate wedge wear, as Docc illustrated above. The mechanism is simple, the larger piston has more surface area, multiplied by the hydraulic pressure so it pushes harder against the pad. It's nothing to do with gassing, it's simply a counteraction to the natural twisting forces applied to the pad, forcing the leading edge into the rotor with greater wear.

Made in USA. I'm in. Even if Valpolini is better, I've never put a second set of paper valve cover gaskets on any of my bikes.

Bill, that sensor is not particularly...sensitive The repair doesn't have to be pretty to be functional. If you like, bring it along to the 'raid and we'll set it right. If at all possible, bring it attached to the bike.

I unfortunately have no overhead available. Hey, it's all about risk management anyway, right?

For front wheel service, I put a Pit Bull stand under the swingarm and a small jack with wood block under the front of the sump.

Oof, one more thing to check before the Spine Raid.

I've had mine all over the place. It doesn't seem to make much difference. I've run as low as 24/28. In both the Tail of the Dragon and Running 90+ down the Idaho panhandle between Glacier and Spokane, they were good at 28/30. But lower pressure had a noticeable increase in parking lot effort, so Iv'e kept them at 35 both ends since and it's...still fine. I haven't ridden these Dunlops hard yet but I'll set the pressure for best low-speed feel because it doesn't seem to make any difference in handling or traction below racing speeds. Docc may have the most data on mid- to high-speed curvy roads.

So the exact mileage for the previous post- noting that I never fill all the way to the vent, so a little ~. 44.8mpg. Today's ride of 150 miles, 45-65mph with light traffic got the fuel lamp right on 121 miles again, so I'll assume it's right in the low-to-mid 40's as before. What I see here compared to before the Caruso gears is a big improvement in mileage around town, low mph/low speed, and consistently as good as ever before- which was not consistent. I'll eventually be testing whether I can cut fuel at these cruising speeds. Today's food for thought; my roomie's Enfield Himalayan, just across 2k miles today, quit twice. Both times while hot and stopped at lights in town traffic. The RE's EVAP system is pointed to in anecdotes elsewhere. The second time, I pulled over and shut mine off. When I got her down the road, mine backfired and blew the RH throttle body off the manifold. That's never happened before (a backfire) and I'm blaming both bikes' issues on the increasing crap factor of the sewage they sell out of the gas pumps. Meh.

Took the 'Sport out the past 2 days, about 120 miles each day. Hot and sunny, in the 90s. First day was all 35-55mph, leisurely tooling without a lot of stops or traffic. I was very surprised to find on the fill-up the next morning it returned something over 50mpg- I did note that the fuel warning lamp came on at 102 miles. It has always come on at about half, ridiculously soon, so I noticed the distance. The second day, same weather but mostly 50-65mph, light traffic and a little town. My fuel lamp didn't come on until 120 miles of 127. Next fill I'll report the exact mileage. The notes here are that in ~15k miles the best mileage I've ever seen before is about 45, and that was also in very hot weather with steady open 55-70mph roads. I haven't done anything at all to the fuel system, nor changed the spark or fuel maps from previous rides. Unfortunately I did make more than one change since at once so I can't be specific as to cause. I installed the Caruso cam gears, and I will attribute the majority of the increase in mpg to them as the bike runs so much better at all speeds that it proves better efficiency. It has brand new Dunlop SS Road IVs at sidewall pressure. I changed the trans and bevel lubricant to Chevron Delo ESI 85-140. The last bit is worth watching, as the transmission seems quieter than with the RedLine shockproof although I changed the location of my camera microphone which makes objective measurement impossible. We'll do a temperature check at the Spine Raid to see if there is a meaningful reduction from other oils.

For 'in place' carb refreshing, get some Chevron 'techron' in a bottle from auto parts. Fill the bowl through the fuel line, let work for half an hour then drain. Add a half-pint of Marvel Mystery oil to the tank of fresh non-Corngas, run it through and you'll either be golden, or you'll be taking it apart the hard way. Seafoam works pretty good but I've had awesome results with MMO in both gas tank and crankcase for freshen-ups.

My T/S flasher failed on the last ride. It had been intermittently absent or lit/no flash for some time now. I replaced it with a 20A max (why? Tractor-Trailer?) LED flasher. I had to add a polarity reverser to the base, and remote ground wire. But it's bright and quick! Better than expected. At 1.8 amps, should last forever. Boring, but it's raining today.

I'm going to try adding some Elmer's glue to the motor oil for a couple hundred miles to see if that works

I guess I'll call Harpers, then. This is BS lol

Truth. Risk management.

When I put Caruso's gears in the 'Sport, I had no leaks. I replaced the front cover seal as a matter of course. The new one leaked. I replaced the leaking black seal with a new blue one. Just got it all back together again, went out for ~100 miles to find a few drops from the front seal again. I had to replace the front seal in the '85 LM twice also. Is it the Chinese Conspiracy? Are the seals crap, or have I simply become an ape? WTF, universe?

Can't make RPM without air, it's getting in there somehow. Spray some liquid- I like WD40, or alternatively a combustible carb cleaner etc.- on the intake manifold gasket area and also the boot sealing joints. If you hear any change in RPM, you have a leak. Check to see your idle air screws haven't fallen out (never heard of such) The last time I had a high idle, it took a minute to figure out I'd left the 'choke' lever partially engaged. Regularly, my Kaoko cruise control drifts enough to make a high idle. This is one with simple answers, as fuel and spark cannot make RPM without air.

My grandmother had a '82 Oldsmobile 98. After about 90k miles the rear axle started clicking annoyingly. We opened it up and had a look, found nothing. It got worse for a while, and never got better- but never failed either. The boss said, 'Sometimes you just have to let it break to see what was wrong'. My experience has shown that more than a few times over the years. My own 'Sport 5 speed had a 'pop' or 'click' in the driveshaft (I thought) so when rolling in neutral or spinning the wheel on a stand you could hear an audible noise with every driveshaft rotation. I'd had the shaft apart, everything is in fine shape. No aberrations could be felt in either the transmission or rear axle without the shaft. I disassembled the rear axle recently, looking for something. The only change I made was to replace the outside axle bearing in the gear housing. Now, the noise is gone. I can't make any sense of it, can't assign a root cause, but it's dead smooth and silent now. <shrug> If it don't matter, it don't matter.

I just checked- I've never had them off on the 'Sport, mine are identical to those on the '85 LM1000. That is to say, they're a PITA but can be removed with common end wrenches. Some wrenches are thinner and smaller than others, could play havoc. Or the later bikes may have a different connection altogether. I got nothin'.