Pressureangle

Nah... history and sentimentality sell... and well, China. I think it's a brilliant start, they've made it a tourist destination second only to it's purpose as a factory. So someone with access to the checkbook understands their brand-loyal customers. The blindingly obvious black hole of vision is support for older models; look to John Deere and to a lesser extent H-D and Union Pacific for frothing fans. I can go to John Deere and expect to find deep support for my '53 AO. H-D still carries parts for Iron engines. U-P has spent a frightening amount of money returning Steam to the rails, for nothing more than PR and it pays off exponentially. If Mother Goose can fill that hole, they'll become a major brand again. I think. I hope.

Methinks we need a 'coffee stop' thread.

ah, I've seen that but never had to repair it. Standard hdpe tanks are simply blow-molded. This stuff is a bit 'stringy' on the edges, yes? This is precisely why I said you need to know *exactly* what material you have before you start. Good stuff.

Volvo earthmover fuel tanks are HDPE. It is very easy to weld repair, given the right equipment and filler; I cut pieces from ruined tanks as filler and patches.

Arr, the ol' Pirate's bane. Plastics have been lamented since they first arrived. Every type of plastic has it's own very specific requirements for bonding. Some bond to nothing, not even themselves. ABS plastic is problematic but not impossible. I worked at a heavy equipment shop, and to repair punctured fuel tanks (who puts a fuel tank under the loader where branches can stab it, anyway? *volvo*) we purchased a hot-air plastic welder. It worked fabulously on Polyethylene, and after some testing and practice just as well on ABS. It's critical that you discover the method to test and verify plastic type or you'll find not everything is actually made of what it's commonly called. I don't know the specific on V11 plastic, but I do have a couple pieces that could use some help. The idea with the air torch is that it's hot enough to melt the plastic while controlling exactly how soft it gets, and without risk of changing the chemistry of the plastic with flame or overheating. Mostly you simply choose the correct type of plastic welding stick and heat the base and stick together, melting the failure together. In practice, it's a delicate balance and while not hard to make a solid repair it is much harder to make a *pretty* repair. Preparation helps just as it does with metal welding, creating space in the crack to increase surface area without affecting the finish on the visible side. Using a small battery powered drill to spin the filler stick also makes things much more solid, but takes an even more practiced hand. iirc the welder kit cost something like $700 in 2005, but I'm sure inexpensive chinese kits can be had within a budget now. Hm...

I have towing per-vehicle on my Progressive policies, for cars and bikes. Altogether ~45/yr I have AAA as an add-on to a friend, something like ~$15/yr? I also have Hagerty towing for my '68 Charger. They recently changed from 'any household vehicle' to only listed covered vehicles. Nevertheless. Seems like a lot, but I got wrecked towing the bikes on a trailer and only mixing and matching got everything home without cost. Progressive towed the truck, AAA paid to tow the trailer. Worth it.

...but not actually wrong lol

This is the Way.

PM me. ___________ Docc- 'What is the TPS setting procedure on this system?' The MyECU is set up the same as always, set your TPS to ~157(?)mv. HOWEVER you can, and should, verify that the system is also set to the same value- the system can use any TPS value as a baseline.

Yes, and since they'd be CNC machined I'd have both hole positions. On second thought, I'd probably just make them all in the RP position and suggest a plate go with it if they don't have one already. Really should time-sert the lower hole too, but those kits are too expensive to include... but if any listers need it, I have it and for the price of postage and the insert itself I'd make it available.

Looks like a closed-die forging to me. This is on the list of bits I'd like to make new and maybe improved but forgings are prohibitively expensive for small quantities, and complicated enough that billet is no better. Sooner or later I'll have one loose to have examined and quoted.

mmm. Garage is destroyed so I can't lay my hands on my spare ECU. iirc I had to get the MyECU because the stock unit isn't tunable, or perhaps GD wasn't invented yet... I have a lot of time in mine, probably less trouble to PM than to make a long thread.

Ah, the Red Green wars. Those were the days.

That's an interesting bit of WTF. It's good policy and mandatory on many auto/truck manual units to indicate the bellhousing for concentricity, using offset dowels to correct. iirc the '51 Waukesha monster I rebuilt had a max runout of .003" allowed. Pity it would be so hard to verify in MG.

The solenoid itself draws that much? iirc the starter itself draws ~80A in good condition.

Well dang, all the rebuild/finished pics are buried somewhere in a hard drive that predates Google Photos. Meh. Here's how I found it.

Uncertain. I haven't been home since the Moto Grappa Gala. August is V11 month, if all the parts have arrived and I don't get any rude surprises it shouldn't be too hard. If I ignore all the other semi-pressious tasks that have piled up. Then I have to find a dogsitter... gah

Yes, here an old wood boring drill in this form is called a 'bit brace'.

Every pawn shop has a bucket full for $2.99 each lol

For those OGs who grew up without air compressors.

The one tool that seems critical to every 'Guzzi job is the scissor jack from a cheap car. I can position the jack in any place under the motor to adjust; front wheel, rear wheel, and it's slow and infinitely adjustable. Seems the flat jacks are too bulky, always in the way, and want to pull my front tire out of the clamp or jackstand. I welded a 3/8" drive socket on the cranknut to make it easy with a speed handle.

It's so egregious sometimes I have to believe they intend to mock their audience.

Tonti is pretty east to put a clutch in. Tank off, Pull the swingarm, wheel in if you have the hands. Trans top mount, loosen the front mounts. A few fasteners here and there like the battery box. Be sure anything strapped too tightly to the frame is released, and pull the frame up far enough to get at it. Starter, ground wire to the trans (hopefully, if not put one) Of course, you have to stabilize and secure the front wheel and block the motor sufficiently to wiggle the frame 'off'- unless you're stronger than I am you'll want some sort of hoisting mechanism to a rafter (in my case, open garage door braces on a 600lb hurricane rated door) as the whole event gets less than stable as it goes up. The only special tool you'll need is a clutch alignment tool. I'm pretty sure there are complete writups with photos on Wildguzzi.com. As for releasing the stuck plates, everything will come to hand easily enough, then you can attack it on the bench with increasing zeal and chemistry until it's apart.

My cousin ran a propane truck, called the customer up in the hills to say "I'm coming but it'll be after dark, is that ok?" Response- "Yeah, come on, I'll make some calls..." lol