Pressureangle

That's an interesting bit of WTF. It's good policy and mandatory on many auto/truck manual units to indicate the bellhousing for concentricity, using offset dowels to correct. iirc the '51 Waukesha monster I rebuilt had a max runout of .003" allowed. Pity it would be so hard to verify in MG.

The solenoid itself draws that much? iirc the starter itself draws ~80A in good condition.

Well dang, all the rebuild/finished pics are buried somewhere in a hard drive that predates Google Photos. Meh. Here's how I found it.

Uncertain. I haven't been home since the Moto Grappa Gala. August is V11 month, if all the parts have arrived and I don't get any rude surprises it shouldn't be too hard. If I ignore all the other semi-pressious tasks that have piled up. Then I have to find a dogsitter... gah

Yes, here an old wood boring drill in this form is called a 'bit brace'.

Every pawn shop has a bucket full for $2.99 each lol

For those OGs who grew up without air compressors.

The one tool that seems critical to every 'Guzzi job is the scissor jack from a cheap car. I can position the jack in any place under the motor to adjust; front wheel, rear wheel, and it's slow and infinitely adjustable. Seems the flat jacks are too bulky, always in the way, and want to pull my front tire out of the clamp or jackstand. I welded a 3/8" drive socket on the cranknut to make it easy with a speed handle.

It's so egregious sometimes I have to believe they intend to mock their audience.

Tonti is pretty east to put a clutch in. Tank off, Pull the swingarm, wheel in if you have the hands. Trans top mount, loosen the front mounts. A few fasteners here and there like the battery box. Be sure anything strapped too tightly to the frame is released, and pull the frame up far enough to get at it. Starter, ground wire to the trans (hopefully, if not put one) Of course, you have to stabilize and secure the front wheel and block the motor sufficiently to wiggle the frame 'off'- unless you're stronger than I am you'll want some sort of hoisting mechanism to a rafter (in my case, open garage door braces on a 600lb hurricane rated door) as the whole event gets less than stable as it goes up. The only special tool you'll need is a clutch alignment tool. I'm pretty sure there are complete writups with photos on Wildguzzi.com. As for releasing the stuck plates, everything will come to hand easily enough, then you can attack it on the bench with increasing zeal and chemistry until it's apart.

My cousin ran a propane truck, called the customer up in the hills to say "I'm coming but it'll be after dark, is that ok?" Response- "Yeah, come on, I'll make some calls..." lol

It don't. Always an interesting reminder when you forget, after you cut the self-retract nubbin off.

The Datsun 240Z got it's appellation (the internal manufacturer's designation) because the Japanese name didn't work in the US- "Fairlady".

We all have spines, in various states of disrepair.

No, the 'Sport has 4 micro relays, same as used in the V11 1997, dunno if it changed from previous years.

I haven't reviewed the relays on the 2000 v11 yet, but my '97 1100 Sport had Tyco 3 relays, and as reputation demanded failed in the high heat of Daytona traffic. Fine again on the ride home, so obviously marginal in normal operation. I grabbed a handful of oem Omron at the junkyard, they were oem in many Jeep products and low mile wrecks are (were) abundant.

I'm going to paraphrase and take licence with Pete's notion- "It's all Bulls**t". The only thing I'll add here is that the larger the "w" spread, the more quickly the oil breaks down. Temperature causes polymerization and cooling reverses. Not that this is any consideration in our case, 'light usage.' Straight weight oil is often recommended for stationary equipment where service intervals are long.

This has taken up residence in my head 24/7 for weeks now

No, it was a strictly Prussian affair.

We made it to Asheville, tomorrow is Wheels Through Time motorcycle museum. Thanks to the Hagans for the hospital ity, and the many new flavors from around the world.

Well, the 'ol 97 came to me in boxes so I don't get to compare-hoping to make the '25 SSR with it...we'll see My 1100 Sport injectors were just slightly worse and a little more out of balance, it made a *huge* difference- I had to take 10% of the fuel out across the board, and of course everything was just smooth and silky afterwards. Had to rebalance the throttle bodies as well.

Here's the results from the injector service. Clearly, it's necessary.

Very smooth, and without a trace of improv. Nice.