Pressureangle

Almost forgot to notice it's not a MG lol

After a short nap I have to go a little deeper. The red/black wire on the tach does not go to ground, so the tach ground is not likely an issue. Phil had said at the beginning that the VR takes it's signal through the headlight circuit, and that's the case here. The yellow wire is hot to the tach through the headlight switch, which powers through the F6 fuse, which powers through the keyswitch. So, what the lamp sees as system voltage is whatever makes it's way through all these junctions, switches, and connections; every connection introduces some resistance, and every resistance is telling the VR to output more power. Taking the brute force approach, I'd run a jumper wire directly from battery + to the headlight socket yellow wire, bypassing everything and seeing if the regulator then acts right. Understand I operate under the parable, 'A man teaches best that which he most needs to learn' and before now I haven't reviewed any of the later-than-my-97 V11 wiring, but it's relevant to my own efforts at the moment so time spent here is as valuable to me as it hopefully will be to you.

Here's a link to *a* schematic- for 2004. If anyone has a good 2000-2001 schematic, particularly in English (Did KiwiRoy do this?) I'd like to see it. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/wiring_v11-without-catalytic-converter_2004_it-en-fr-de.pdf Here are the Italian color translations Italian Color Name English Equivalent Notes Rosso Red Standard red; can imply a vibrant or warm shade. Blu Blue General term for blue, covering various shades. Giallo Yellow Standard yellow, from bright to mustard tones. Verde Green General green, encompassing light to dark shades. Nero Black Pure black, used universally. Bianco White Pure white, used universally. Arancione Orange Standard orange, derived from "arancia" (orange fruit). Viola Purple General purple, from light lavender to deep violet. Rosa Pink General pink, often a soft or medium shade. Marrone Brown Standard brown, often warm or earthy. Grigio Gray General gray, from light to dark shades. Azzurro Light Blue / Sky Blue A softer, brighter blue, often associated with the sky. Celeste Sky Blue / Pale Blue Lighter than azzurro, often used for pastel or baby blue. Beige Beige Neutral, light brownish-yellow, same as English usage. Avorio Ivory Off-white with a creamy or yellowish tint. Oro Gold Metallic or bright yellow-gold shade. Argento Silver Metallic gray or silver shade. Turchese Turquoise Blue-green shade, similar to the gemstone. Cremisi Crimson Deep, rich red with a slight purple undertone. Porpora Purple / Deep Red Historically a reddish-purple or deep scarlet, depending on context. Ocra Ochre Earthy yellow-brown, often used in art or design. Smeraldo Emerald Rich, deep green, like the gemstone. Zaffiro Sapphire Deep, vibrant blue, like the gemstone. Amaranto Amaranth / Magenta A reddish-purple or deep pinkish-red shade. Ciano Cyan Bright blue-green, often used in design or printing. Magenta Magenta Vibrant pinkish-purple, same as English usage. Carminio Carmine Bright, vivid red with a slight orange undertone. Bordeaux Burgundy Deep red, like the wine, with a purple tint. Ecru Ecru Unbleached linen color, pale beige or off-white. So it looks like the regulator has a light blue wire to sense voltage- this aligns with mine, though it's been cut away from the harness- the light (AZ) wire passes through a couple of connectors, then the 'charge' lamp, then to the tachometer +. When the differential between the regulator and the system reaches a sufficient level, the lamp illuminates- this also explains (probably) the high-rpm lamp, in that at low speed the current flows one way, in an overcharge state the current flows the opposite direction. By the schematic, I'd start looking at the back of the Tacho where the wire from the charge lamp connects. That wire on my 2000 is Red/Black, traced from the charge lamp to the + terminal on the tacho. If the Tacho ground is bad, that could be the issue, and they're famous for poor grounds. Pic for visibility

My skeleton has skeletons it it's own closet. I used to pop Advil like chicklets. Best thing I ever did for joint pain is quit sugar and carbs. (mostly). Next best is to take Curcumin (Turmeric) supplements. No liver/kidney problems and a great anti-inflammatory. My Dad takes beetroot chewies and says they work too. Worth a shot.

Let's have a photo. As stated, left-handed drill bits are a good investment. If you're ham-fisted and meat headed as I am. *if* you have anything protruding above the gasket surface, you can clean everything spotless with acetone and JB weld (or actual weld, if equipment) a nut to the broken part. A handy welder can make it happen even if it's a bit below surface.

Oh C'mon now. I did 10k on this. You can make Tellico from Houston in a day, if you leave at 4am.

But before you blame the regulator, you *must* verify the system voltage value the regulator sees. The way an electronic regulator works, is not to control voltage absolutely but rather to deliver rectified (DC) voltage to the battery in very short bursts (PWM, or pulse width modulation) So your battery will actually see much higher voltage than your multimeter reads for very short periods. Your DMM, unless a very high-end one where you can choose, will default to measuring by RMS (root mean square) or a fancy way of saying 'average voltage over time'. If your regulator can't actually see what's happening at the battery, it just goes WFO hoping to see a signal to turn itself off, rinse and repeat in microscopic intervals. Message is, verify your voltage regulator sensor circuit. Replace the LED bulb with an incandescent one for testing. Doesn't have to be the same size even, just plugs in and something around 50-100 watts.

Are those exhaust/head guards a factory accessory, production upgrade, or custom aftermarket? Not sure they add to the looks, but certainly better than a flat spot and scrapes on the pipe.

I don't know, and don't recall any discussion or discovery of what conditions set the 'charge' lamp other than insufficiency. There may be some sort of current-limiting self-protection routine? I can't find a logical way that a permanent magnet generator can stop producing at higher RPM, then return to producing at low RPM. It is perfectly possible, though, that the charge wires from the generator to the VR get very hot at high RPM and the resistance cuts throughput. <shrug> only the DMM knows for sure.

It's late and I'm speaking out of turn because I have neither my VR nor a schematic at hand to review. The voltage regulator has to know, by some circuit, how much voltage it 'needs' to put out. If the 'sensor' circuit has high resistance, that will tell the VR that the 'system' voltage is low and it needs to output more, when in fact the battery is charged but the regulator can't see it. I'm going through a well-worn 2000 V11 right now, and one thing that seems consistent is the ignition switches festering internally. Poor connections cause high resistance and low voltages across the board. The switches are not difficult to disassemble and clean. First things first, get a multimeter and a note pad and record what your static, or key-off battery voltage is; what your idle battery voltage is; what your 3000 RPM battery voltage is; and whether, and by how much, the battery voltage changes when the charge lamp comes on.

I'm always amazed to find that ... most? MG riders, at least those who put on a lot of miles, simply ignore cleaning their bikes. I'm not a museum keeper, but the BMW GSA I've put near 20k miles on was not near this soupy, even though I never washed it more thoroughly that a quick sponge and ride in the rain. This thing looked like a big block chevy out of a 1975 motorhome with 100k miles on it. Not trying to be harsh, but DANG boy.

Those are the stock Marzocchis, cleaned and serviced by WMR Performance, my local Ohlins/WP pro shop. KTM/Husq/GasGas dealer.

The crank snout seal spacer. Seal in the front housing, oring inside the spacer. Like sealing pinion splines on an old chevy.

All your oring belong to us

Good start today.

$4500? Maybe I should pay more attention to detail on mine.

I haven't begun to Bit-O-Honey or Necco wafers yet.

Ah, you did not put that tape there yourself? If not, certainly get it off to find the Cracker Jack prize underneath.

I can never promise, but it could happen

NSEQUITUR best licence plate EVER Where is that scruffy little diner? Clear over that '77 sticker Not one bottle of bourbon anywhere. Pity. Next year I'll throw a wine bottle at the pavilion from the upper deck.

I've never had my eyes on a Stelvio, but don't forget the harness runs all the way to the headlamps. Back in steel-bucket lamps, a worn through wire in the nest of snakes inside the bucket was common.

You have a short circuit. Simple As. I used to tell my students, 'You can find 99% of faults with your eyes and fingers'. It's very unlikely that the short is inside the wiring harness where you can't see it. Here's how I'd approach it. First, eyeball and finger every place where the harness lays against the frame. This may require cutting zipties and disconnecting connectors. If it doesn't present that easily, use the wiggle test. Connect a test light clip to your positive battery terminal, and the point of the test light to the user side of the fuse connection. (fuse out of course) Disconnect the users, if I understand correctly the headlamps. Turning the switch off, if Euro where it completely disconnects them is ok. If the test lamp is lit, wiggle all the harnesses until you find a place that extinguishes the lamp. If the lamp is off wiggle everything until it illuminates. That places you pretty near the problem. Then eyes and fingers. Anything more complicated than a rub-through is going to take a proper wiring schematic. ; Edit; all of these tests with ignition key off.

I buy Butler maps for any area I'm going to ride in anymore. Fabulous, waterproof, best roads clearly identified and a very good general area map in every case. https://butlermaps.com/

Though the size of the hail was enormous, the general conditions are exactly what we see with Great Plains tornadoes. Could you have actually had a nearby tornado?

There they are...I think I see a little smoke rising still