Pressureangle

Great data point, I'd not have thought of it unless perhaps it happened to me. Such as with the relic I'm resurrecting now.

Valves too tight?

Just a point to add to the first post. With both my 1100 Sport and my '04 BMW GSA, another dry clutch- when cold they will often block out first gear until the bike is rolled a bit or the clutch feathered. What's happening is the opposite of the clutch dragging, rather that it is releasing so completely that it will not rotate the gears in the box against the cold oil. Sometimes this happens when the gear dogs are in alignment rather than in mesh, and can't move into position until they are rotated slightly. Seems only to happen when cold.

We deal mostly in Nylon, usually forms of Nylon-6. Though we aren't doing any thermal work yet, the mechanical properties are far superior to PETG and it's significantly more heat resistant as well, 350F+ to deform and about 450F to soften to filament. I'd definitely take one or two of these. Hm, not sure the 1100 Sport has the bolt bosses...might have to upgrade that.

Yes, but it wasn't clear to me *what it does*. Perhaps I didn't read closely enough. Upon review, the internal pawl clearance eccentric wasn't mentioned- unless it was through the middle of the thread. Again, to have spent the effort to install that where the early door has only a roll pin, it must have been a real complaint.

My grandmother's wallpaper was flowered in my CK days. Well of course it was. She was a big solitaire player too.

My experience is that visibility is quite often better. I much prefer the parking lot panache, too. All the cool kids have bar end mirrors. But my bike has been on the ground about $600 worth of bar end mirrors, so I won't be having any myself. On the last point, why aren't we all riding Sportsters? Or wait...

I think I figured out the whyfor on this adjustment. I figure it's insurance in case the pawl doesn't fall all the way down on a shift- if the pawl hook is hanging on the pin just enough to pull the wheel it will roll up and off as the wheel turns. When it crosses this adjuster it will be forced down as it passes, so the hook can't jump off the pin mid-shift. Not having one, I can't know how to set it, but I guess I'd set it with a couple to a few thousandths at the closest point that passes during normal operation. Is the adjustment spec in the service manual anywhere?

Today's labors was parcel tidbits. Roller berrin for shift detent- niiiice Pawl alignment- niiice Pivot pin nuts... uh... very, very nice says the price. Shame about the background at the moment. Don't forget, kids, do your pawl adjustment in the vice or do it twice. Now waiting for seals and pawl adjuster locknuts.

Very pretty. I'm not allowed to own things so clean. The color is very near to the stock color on my '70 Norton Fastback, 'Fireflake Golden Bronze' though it looks like what I'd call 'Orange'.

Given what I've posted above about adjustment, and if it's not too late, I'd be interested in knowing how your pawl is adjusted. Mine was so far out the pawl wouldn't fall over the pin upon release, certainly causing failed shifts though I'm not certain in which direction.

Not as easy as it sounds. Hmph. https://belmetric.com/acorn-nut-stainless-fine-thread-din-1587/?sku=NA12X1.25SS

Ok in reply to my redacted embarassment above, let's go through shift adjustment. Which even the early doors have. The point of the adjustment is to have the pawl evenly spaced in both directions over the pins. This is accomplished with the external flat-headed screwbolt next to the shift shaft. As stated elsewhere and many times, this is not an adjustment you can do correctly on the bike, there is very little latitude outside of 'correct'. The screw can be installed with the eccentric either up or down, but beginning with the eccentric 'down' or farthest from the shift shaft gives the least sensitivity to the adjustment. The adjustment itself is very fine, the entire range of success about 1/16th of a turn so you need 1/32nd of a turn accuracy. I've tried to show and represent the goal and pieces as clearly as possible. As for actually measuring the travel in both directions, you could set up in a vise, with calipers, and an extra set of hands to measure exactly but your eyes are calibrated sufficiently to move the shift plate back and forth to feel the pins in the pawl. Be sure to mark the slot in the screw before tightening the locknut to be sure it doesn't move while you tighten. If your cap nut looks like mine, get a shiny new one. Edit; don't even bother alone, without a vice. It isn't that easy. A magnetic dial indicator to tip the end of the pawl would be the cat's meow.

Er...somebody tell me what this 'adjuster' adjusts? It looks like a backstop for the pawl arm, where mine has a roll pin. The external adjuster on the newer style doors adjusts the center spring perch under the shaft plate, yes? Edit; I get to look stupid. My own door does have a centering adjustment-which obviously was not adjusted. Must be failure to verify, lack of sleep and the 98* garage. I still need someone to explain the 'backstop' adjuster as I don't see a purpose for it. Maybe it'll come to me in a dream. Sheesh. All for naught. Oh, and apologize to MG.

My son was going to take the 2000 as a 'tourer'. I told him that if he wanted one to keep forever and outfit for travel, this would be the one. I've bid on it.

Decided against the RAM, in the interest of both time and economy. But one never knows what's up the road.

My crank and flywheel bolts all have Schnorr washers. Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight for some rust remover.

"perfectly usable, but not perfect" That's a perfect and perfectly usable description of this entire motorcycle. I can hand-file it, hammer it, and paint it into the shadows. We can have form tools made easily enough and have the press to use it in. As with the Roper Plates, the demand at this point is dwindly but hobbies don't run on profit, and we do have an apprentice to teach all the old ways. So if and when you happen across it, toss it my way and I'll add it to the pile.

Just remembered I have a WP front end from a mid-90's Buell...

K...my 2000 has this shift lever...is this factory, with 2 holes? If so, is the top hole still 12mm shorter than Chuck's? Chuck, do you still have any of these? ... and if not, do you have the file and form tool to make them with? I could add them to the slowly growing pile of have-nots we can make without much pain.

Suspension Upgrades. Talk to me

I got a $750 V11 and the Staintunes are on the shelf lol I will be certain they don't fit the 1100 Sport before they're fitted to the V11, though.

My take on BaT is that it's mostly a bunch of whiny rich-adjacent cheapskates. On one side are people fishing high prices, the other side douchebags trying to submarine the item to bring the price down to where they can afford it, or sour grapes it because they can't. Change my mind.