Pressureangle

We'll see about the head bearings when they arrive. The swingarm bearings, well though the grease was a bit dry, a quick spin with the drill motor and everything smoothed back out. I have to take the swingarm back off anyway to remove the brake hangar pin- it's seized in there but good. Wish I had the 'Sport here, to measure- I know it's been said a hundred times that a 6 speed can't just be bolted up but by the looks of things I don't see why not, with just a swingarm and drive change. Eventually they'll both be in the same place long enough to measure thoroughly.

surprisingly difficult to find bearing numbers without the bearings in hand- wheels are getting tires and trees are still on. Double check me, if anyone has documentation; Steering head bearings; 30205 Front wheel bearings; LH 6205-2rsh 25x52x15 RH 6304-2rsh 20x52x15 Rear wheel bearings; L&RH 6204-2rsh 20x47x14 Inner axle bearing (bevel) 6304-2rsh same as RH front wheel

I just discovered a custom seat builder right here in town- I'll be visiting very soon, as I have more than a couple seat projects on the shelves. The V11 seat is geriatric, I always wanted the 1100 Sport done in saddle leather, the Aermacchi cafe project only has a fiberglass base and the stocker is rotting off the stock base. The Norton Fastback seat is shot, and ridiculously expensive *if* you find one, even one that needs work. https://voodoosaddles.com/

...but you still have a spine to bring.

While you have the bearing in hand, the balls roll in the center of the races. Mounted in the bike, if the side pressure is imperfect, the balls run on the edge of the races. You have to push pretty hard sideways to feel it, and if you do it's probably only in one direction. Try clamping the side of the outer race in a vice, and using a wood dowel or broomhandle end (rounded) to spin the inner race while you push on it. Standard ball; (intolerant of side thrust) Angular contact; (meant for side thrust) More than you wanted to know about bearings; https://www.nhbb.com/knowledge-center/engineering-reference/ball-roller-bearings/internal-geometry-ball-bearings

http://microblueracing.com/

With a few more measurements, I could send that up for quotes to the same supplier making the Roper Plates. I may just do that when I get around to sniffing the butt of this zombie bike.

A too-long spacer won't put side pressure on the bearings, so no- probably. You can, if the spacer is too long, drive the bearing outer races into a tight hub where they can't center themselves- achieving the same effect, though the axle nut can apply a lot more pressure than likely to achieve by driving them against the spacer. Phil's method above works, and if you have a nice hardened (read 'measures consistent across surfaces') washer, you could probably just rotate the washer by hand on the spacer and installed bearing, and feel it kinda just brush against the race shoulder. If the washer is hard against the hub, the axle nut will crush any clearance out- too tight. If it measures good and feels good, you're good. "In the event this 112.9mm measurement is reasonably accurate, and my replacement spacer is 113.145, then may spacer is too long by almost 0.010" (0.245mm). Based on the discussion, that sounds like too much lateral displacement of the inner race limiting the bearing life?" I'd like to see less than .010", but I wouldn't let it keep me from riding.

I should mention that it's critical to have the spacer perfectly aligned with the bearings when taking measurements. If it's tipped it will measure long. You can finger it out, or if it's a decent fit on the axle you can use the axle and a soft mallet as the bearing driver. If the outer races are tight in the hub you can fit a piece of pipe to the outer race whilst the axle stays in place.

as long as you're in there, here's how I verify spacer fit- Set both bearings tight to the hub shoulders, with no center spacer Measure bearing depths from hub flange, both inner and outer races Remove one side bearing, place spacer. Re-install bearing until it bottoms Re-measure bearings; if you have *zero* change from no spacer measures, it's too short. If driving the second bearing home changes the depth of the first bearing, note by how much. These small bearings have very little clearance, so I would say if your center (spacer) race moved by .001" to .003" you're in good shape. If you get more protrusion than a couple thousandths, your spacer is long- which can overload the bearings if the outer races are too tight to float in the hub, which they should be. I would rather shim up a short spacer than try to work with a long one, as it's important to have the ends perfectly square to the centerline of the bearings, hard to achieve with a file or stone. If your spacer is long, you *can* drive the bearings against the spacer with an appropriate driver that touches only the inner race- then when the driven bearing finds home, the direction of forces on both bearings will load the races equally and center themselves up. That does leave you with a couple or few thousandths between the hub and the outer race of one of the bearings; a few thousandths is ok, but if they aren't tight in the hub they can shift and chafe during use. Have I overclarified that to mud now?

Absolutely agree. I'd personally much rather tour the crumbly prewar edifice, myself. However, in the big Corporate picture, the vast majority of persons want Disneyworld. So there has to be some poop to attract the flies. I'd rather see them build a tourist destination and with it a solid customer base than to see them struggle with viability.

How many wheel bearings is that? How have you checked your spacers and hub for alignment?

He ain't from around here.

Just center it up and you're good. Run it up and down just to be sure something won't snag, but I don't think there's enough latitude for adjustment to cause any trouble.

Well, I hate to do it but I have to drop out this year. Just too much going on elsewhere to make it work. Boo Hoo. I really hate to break routines. 2 more rooms and 3 garage spots opened up.

Well, if I had the air conditioned, ridiculously comfortable pole barn and another 6 zeros to burn I'd just buy every one I see. Which is probably precisely where this one lives, given it's address. To be continued

Figured since it's fairly local I'd post this up- Facebook marketplace. 1997 Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport Injected 6700 miles only Fresh out of the shop from being mechanically restored New fuel pump,filters ,fuel lines, sorting of any issues & ready to burn Florida bike $5400 obo https://www.facebook.com/share/1Z5nhbxco2/

I have to expedite my own self too... waiting for transmission seals and lock washers. Then discovery of what else is missing. Guess I'll go order tires now

You will have to lift it high. See this thread on Wildguzzi.com for some samples, and method to restrain the bike on the stand. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=110569.0

We have to teach Grok to refer to it as 'The Rusty Star Picket Project'.

On the way.