Gmc28

Just proves i’m Lazy.... found the motoelectric site in about 12 seconds by just searching. Anyway, here’s their site. I will say I’ve been happy with their product when I’ve used them for older (uh, middle aged?) Ducati’s, like on the st4 and the 904 (Gran Canyon), but don’t know if it would be money well spent on the v11: https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html from the sounds of some of the issues, it MIGHT be of some value on the ground side of things, though most of the benefit usually comes from just having good clean connections. But still, I love my toys, and there’s no downside mechanically to doing this minor mod, and a truly possible benefit, so i’ll Likely do it. i will say that I picked up my 2nd lemans last night (love it, but more on that elsewhere/thread), and it does not have the hicap, and now that I think of it this “new” lemans without the hicap cranks slower than my other lemans which does have the hicap. (So also note that I’ve just admitted my own laziness again, and answered my own question.... I forgot that Goldie (1st ‘02 lemans I have at home) has the hicap kit, as I recommended it to my friend some yrs ago, he had installed it, and later I bought the bike from him. Duh.) so, i’ll Likely do the hicap kit this winter, and clean up all the connections, and do your described 30amp fuse upgrade. So endeth my circular thinking/answering my own questions extravaganza... guess my lousy memory is just getting worse, but it still works when u let it warm up! 😎

Well, good question docc, in regard to the detail, as i’m Not actually sure if it’s a brand or just a descriptor, but I assume it’s a brand, as it’s always the same look to the kits I’ve purchased for various bikes. But now I’m being lazy.... i’ll Do the quick research and circle back, since no one is saying “oh ya, we’ve all got those...” in general, it’s just a larger gauge, higher quality cable/wire set for the primary cables for battery and starter. Been very happy with them in the past on other bikes. Made an obvious difference on my 99 ST4, where (Luigi’s) lousy grounding caused issues of various sorts despite clean, solid looking factory cables. I’ve used them on other bikes without any obviously noted improvement.

So many good threads, so little time (until winter, when it’s “low season” for riding.... great read on the problem and solution noodling. Great group! i’ll only pitch in that I’ve found most of the same issues on other older Italian machines I’ve owned and/or worked on. Often not able to say with 100% certainty what the real culprit is on such issues, but I eventually ended up doing a winter maintenance task on each bike where I’d do most of the basic (and sometimes not so basic) upgrades, including roadstercycle R/R, cleaning connections, removing and/or upgrading Luigi’s connectors, upgrading wire grade and sometimes gauge, di-electric grease all fittings, and usually either adding another ground strap and/or doing the hicap wiring kit. Is there a hicap kit available for these? I can just look, but this group is too dialed in for me to want to do much of anything without checking with the forum 1st!

i think he's referring to the tipping of the tank/bike as being the "manually operated reserve supply"? But does the bike-tipping method apply to both internal and external fuel pump bikes? i would think so, since the fuel pump location should only effect total capacity, whereas the petcock location (or lack of additional locations) effects the need for the bike tip...

revival of zombie thread, and likely with answers scattered elsewhere in other threads.... So a little over 5 gallons usable in the pre-03 V11's (like an 02 Lemans)? And, dare i ask what kind of fuel economy folks get on the highway, perhaps around 80mph? that i'm sure is addressed elsewhere, but seemed ok to link that to a fuel capacity zombie thread. I've not had my V11 down to the low fuel light, being mostly an around town bike to this point, so figured i'd do a little reading before taking one on a much longer run. An old RoadRunner article lists the tank capacity at 5.8 gallons, which clearly sounds like a number to not pay much attention to. And then is there a fuel econ speed "cliff", where the efficiency drops off fast? in other words, above about what speed does the economy start to noticeably suffer? My little air cooled ducati 904 hates it above 65mph, at least in regard to fuel economy, whereas not surprisingly my italian machine with the 1200 4v is fine on fuel up to much higher speeds. The KTM just flat sucks on economy, but i still tolerate the austrian dame.

Thats what i've been using for some time on multiple italian machines, and i also have had my electrical issues go away. Thing is though, i have to admit that some time back I ended up defaulting to just going through the italian machine electrical the first winter I would own the machine (winter projects, not during riding season :->), which meant the roadstercycle mosfet regulator, upgrading any suspect looking wiring from stator to reg and then on to battery, removing un-needed italian butt connectors, then often also spending the $$ on the hicap cables. I used to fret over which of those changes was the most important, but ended up drinking the coolaid for "its my toy, and i want it right" to justify the expense in each case. A wise case can be made for all that being overkill and a waste of some of that money, as well as for the opposite, which is to have a well sorted machine. over time. i've had success with each of those fixes on different bikes, so i usually do them all now. The hicap cables worked wonders on my old ST4, whereas just upgrading the wiring and connectors to the VR from the stator on 3 different Gran Canyons seemed to be the real silver bullet for the issues that plagued that model. The shindengen I also do, but not as clear on whether it really was the answer based on trial & error, since that upgrade was always accompanied by another change (usually the wiring upgrade, which is certainly the cheapest of all those options). In fact, now that i think about it, i started doing that in around 2005, and since then i have not had a single electrical issue on any of my (modified as described) bikes. knock on wood. charging is great, batteries last 7+ years and are only replaced because i figure its time and not because of any bad symptoms (though note i also use deltran batt tenders all winter, always), and no oddball "won't start" issues. Very possibly just lucky, but the miles, years, and number of italian machines so modified are adding up to what might be a relevant data set...

amen

which cables/laptop to you use? i have the tuneecu setup, which if i recall correctly i run from windows on my mac via bootcamp (but now that i think of it, i upgraded my mac and i think i skipped the windows partition..... damn, forgot about that). It reads/writes to some ECU's, but not sure if its apples-to-apples, plus i'd need the cables specific for the V11. probably a thread on this, so i'll take a look, but a bump here could get me going down the right path. I'm not at all sure i'll even bother. I love the way the LM sings above 4800rpm, once i got used to letting her rev up that high. Always felt like the "tractor" should be treated nice, with the rpm's kept lower for that nice torque, but its so smooth and linear above 4800rpm, with no buzz/vibration, and instant throttle response, that i now tend to just ride her more in that zone. Funny, as people always say its not the rpm-lover "like a ducati" (commonly noted thing), but i find this V11 runs smoother than anything i've owned (other than 2 strokes) in that higher rpm zone. The only reason i'd mess with the ECU is to see what it is that "I didn't know i couldn't live without" in regard to the lower rpm zone, plus the ever present desire to mess around with stuff that should by all rights just be left alone... :-> I owned my oilhead boxer RT for over 65,000 miles before i installed a gizmo that some oilhead enthusiasts who were dialed into the ECU challenge came up with (AF-XIED, or some such acronym, which was a plug and play device for "tricking" the ECU), and low and behold a light shown from heaven and bestowed beautiful low rpm performance that i didn't know was something i had been missing.

Hey Tom, shouldn't you be sleeping? the sun comes up there in about 4 more hours, and sunlight is becoming more scarce this time of year! or maybe you're now enjoying digesting the elk steak and IPA? :-> cheers

ah yes, not the first time i've heard that name Meinolf today... I suppose i can search for an answer first, but are those maps via power commander, or is it an ECU flash of some sort? and does he send an ECU you can "pop in", or does the ECU need to be sent?

Touche. that's the thing with these. The one i bought from my friend he now would like to have back (so i'm buying another). But they hold value well at this point (loaded statement), so keeping them around isn't such a bad thing, unlike a new bike that if it sits in the garage is costing money in depreciation.

Interesting. So sounds like something i'd especially like to look at more for the bikes that i put a lot more miles on away from home area, and that i ride outside of cell phone coverage.

wow. i'm not a "signer-upper" usually, but docc's suggestion of the AMA seems like a good way to go, despite me chucking their constant junk-mail to me... For comparison, AAA has the add-on option for family, so i could mooch off my wife's membership and pay less to joing, but then you need to upgrade to the higher level of service for it to cover bikes ($135?/yr?). ok, data point. But since i've never had to get trucked out of a bad spot to this point in my life, thats many decades of service i would have paid for, so therefore many thousands i would have spent in dues. So touche.... i gambled and have "won" so far to this point in life, since now i could pay cash for a tow and still come out way ahead. But the AMA deal... $49 and includes the 35 mile roadside towing/assistance, including canada and alaska. Not going to usually find that 35 miles will help much in Alaska, but still not a bad start. My old KTM up there is not the machine that i have the most faith in, and it doesn't get as much attention from me because it doesn't live in my shop each winter for some annual coddling, although i love it, .... so a tow option is a mildly comforting notion for the beast up north every year. Then, I'm usually on a bit of time schedule when i'm on my longer road trips and away from work/family, so its also comforting to know that if i can't fix something efficiently, then i could tow to a nearby town and shop, and airline home for work, then sort out things from there. Never has happened yet, and not planning on it, but again, mildly comforting. But then the AMA deal includes RV's and trailers? Crazy. The RV option from AAA as i recall is considerably more than the standard AAA deal, so seems like helluva deal from AMA. probably some catches in the fine print, but if the price is that low for something i hope to never use, then its a win.

good question. in "middle aged" aircraft (80's & 90's) i can think of a couple setups where a thermal CB will trip, and a warning light illuminates, and you either see it or a checklist directs you to look for it, and it can reset itself with time (which i assume is usually cooling), or you manually reset it once its cool enough, which in that case is more or less like a standard CB, but still physically a little different. Of course my 1938 T-craft did not have that kind of equipment :->, but the later jets do. Maybe these automotive cb's give an indication... that would be interesting. Mikko presumably knows ?

aviation also uses the auto reset CB's for some things, especially on the larger circuits.... they just cool off, and/or if the fault goes away they "can" reset.

AMA web site is down. i'll check it out. if its that cheap, could be slick. I've always tossed their membership marketing mail, as its just more stuff i don't need and another little recurring bill, but for that cheap if it includes towing, not too bad. Isn't that large 30A under the seat the maxi fuse size? i've got the gold Lemans out in the shop, so i can go pull the seat up and look, but easier to just ask here from the desk at work... Mikko - i've not done the circuit breaker conversion. i've always been a believer in the notion that finding the "smoking gun" with a maintenance issue is a good thing, as at least then i know what to fix, and a burnt fuse helps add clarity perhaps to the troubleshooting issue. true that if the headlight (for instance) stops working, then theres not a lot of confusion over which circuit is problematic, but with some issues the burnt fuse can be a "stake in the sand" to help narrow down an issue, at least a little. Have you had good success with the circuit breakers?

Tulsa to Dallas, then to Durango, then hopefully home (oregon) via whichever route fate (weather) would favor... and there are several very good routes. google maps says Dallas to portland is around 2000, plus the other legs and side routes.

Thx all. docc - can u confirm if the 30a though, in its current stock form, is the typical automotive style? To get her home, i’d Just like to have a spare for the trip. Dave - good point on the stock tool kit... i always forget about that. I have a tool kit for each bike, based on how and where i use the bike. For my Alaska bike, its got a large-ish, well thought out tool kit, whereas for my street machines here at home its usually some spare odds and ends (fuses, relays, zip ties), a tool or two, and a credit card. But this bike is low miles (good), but by definition has been mostly sitting for 17yrs, and its not had a chance to sit in my shop to get looked over yet, so i’m Doing a little more doomsday prep’ing for this 2300+ mile run. Though i very well may just leave it at my brothers place in Durango, if i get there and decide that there’s not enough massage therapists and decent hooch to get me the rest of the way home. Went out to the shop tonight and grabbed my back country tool kit, and just pulled out select items, and placed them in a much smaller little case (an old Aerostitch canvas zip bag of some sort i had laying around). Its a “celebrity lineup” of the faves from that larger bag, minus the chain tool stuff and larger wrenches, which ends up also representing a decent cross section of what Docc shows in his serious equippage/setup. I don’t plan to do any big maintenance, but will be on some back roads where i’d Rather not have to try and call for help, so electrical stuff will be the main concern, after a basic tire plug and fill kit. pressureangle - i may actually consider upgrading my wife’s AAA subscription.... i’ve Never had it, but via a promotion they offer she can add someone in same household for free (1st year), then the next level up from basic it says includes motorcycle coverage. Hmm. Its a thought.

roger roger.... how about the 30a maxi fuse... that just the typical automotive version? I see that my long owned but seldom used Cortech soft saddlebags fit nearly perfect on the Lemans. Just will get some protective stuff for the paint so it doesn't get messed up. Now just need verify that my little "go cruise" throttle lock will work. no reason it wouldn't, as its pretty much universal, but gonna check that key element. No way i can hang on to that throttle very long with that stretch, with my jacked-up shoulder, so that's the lynch-pin "tool" for this trip. sure has been nice doing the longer trips on the Duc with the cruise control... something i used to scoff at!

i just ordered from onlinemicro. so far so good. says UPS ground will ship out today for $8, in US.

very good.... make for some good lunch reading! PO says he replaced them with Bosch relays, but i'll look to see if there's one or two in particular which are more problematic, and will grab a spare or two.

Looks like i'll be heading out to bring home this next Lemans later this month. Done plenty of these longer road trips, and much longer, but never on a Goose, and especially not on a goose that i haven't had in my shop first to go through. The seller has replaced all the relays, and a few other good but important details like that, and its got fresh tires, etc. But i'll be needing to travel very light, so looking at building my smallest possible but decent travel tool kit. Most of it is straightforward enough, but any suggestions that are Guzzi specific from this hoard of experienced owners and road-trippers? already planning to bring a jack hammer, backhoe, and tig welder (:->), but what else in the way of James Bond like stealthy and light but functional stuff is suggested?

I keep a stack of sticky notes in my tool kit. Good for fixing flat tires as well.... "please re-inflate".

well then that settles it.... i'm painting my Lemans frame red, so it'll go faster! can i just use touch up paint, or maybe some nice, hot, red lipstick? :->

Putting this into the category of “i don’t really care”, because i like the way the bike rides regardless, but the talk of the quicker handling of the red vs black frame..... seems like just the wheel size would more than explain all of that. The 3/4” of extra frame length of course should be a factor too technically, but i’m Assuming wheel size much more so. its been alluded to here, but seems like the frame length element rises to the top of the handling differences discussion still?. Even with the same wheel, and the same tire size, just changing brands/styles of tires can yield a big change. I went from a worn pirelli diablo to a new Shinko 705 on a Ducati, both same advertised size, but the Shinko was much more rounded in shape, and the change was freakishly apparent. In that case i assume it was the front tire causing most of the change, but not sure because i changed front and back. On another bike i just changed the rear tire to a slightly smaller size (i think i went with a 160 instead of a 170, cuz I happened to have it on the shelf), and with only that rear tire change the bike handled very different. But a change in tire size, and then also a change wheel size, like with the 4.5 to the 5.5, and you’re going to realize some real handling (turn-in, etc) changes. The “hot rod” larger rear wheel/tire is just going to give that bit more ponderous handling (which is what i have with the Lemans). I’ve got bikes with longer wheelbases but which handler quicker/lighter. Not a bad thing, just a thing.