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po18guy

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Posts posted by po18guy

  1. 4 hours ago, dowieze said:

    Bad news.  The selector spring on my bike broke again after 3000 km.  For the third time in three years.  In the garage they replaced 5 springs in 20 years, includes 2 times on my bike.  They do not find the cause.  Currently they trying to modificate the gear box by reducing the travel way of the selector spring. I hope it will work this time.  

    Any suggestions are we welkom.

    Best regards 

    Marc

    veer.jpeg

    From the "unwinding" of the spring at the time of failure, it appears that selector travel is a prime culprit.

  2. 23 hours ago, p6x said:

    @docc

    It was not the battery!

    I received the new Odyssey battery; they have retired the model name PC545 (MJ).

    The additional thermal protection is achieved by having the battery encased in that metal jacket.

    I conducted some comparative tests on both batteries, and they were similar.

    I installed the new battery, and the starting was not straight at the push of the button. Not sure how to describe it. May have been something to do with the Solenoid.

    But I have not been able to reproduce it. I have made multiple starts, and it cranks properly each time.

     

    Odyssey battery installed 29-Feb-24

     

    On my '04, there always seems to be about 1/2 second between button activation and starter engagement. Almost as if there is a slight time delay. Then, it seems as if the starter is shaken awake and must then lean into the task.

  3. On 2/25/2024 at 11:24 AM, Guzzi-in-Vancouver said:

     I want to put the original bar-end weights back on, but they always shook loose and I don't know how to get them working well with the current red-anodized bar-end mirror mounts.

    I bought folding Ken Sean bar-end mirrors. They came with horrible soft rubber plugs that allowed the mirrors to vibrate too much and would not hold their position. I bought some Delrin rod online and worked them down so they would slip into the bars. Bored them through at 8mm and cut in two at a 60º or so angle so that they would wedge into the bar. Placed an M8 serrated flange nut on the inside and it stays in place when tightening them. They were a bit of a pain to fabricate, but have worked very well.  

    • Like 3
  4. 10 hours ago, daviscr5 said:

    First off, I apologize for posting an oil-related question. I realize this could lead to a proper thrashing on the forum. I did check the FAQs before posting (and read the dipstick calibration thread which didn't seem to really answer my question).

    That said, I changed the oil yesterday (warmed bike up with a 10 min ride, drained, dropped the pan, changed the filter, wiped the pan dry, pre-filled the filter with oil, installed band clamp to prevent filter from backing out, and re-filled with precisely 3.25 liters - that includes the oil I pre-filled in the filter).  Rode bike around the neighborhood so it was warm when I checked the oil (upright and level, screwed dipstick home before checking).

    The dipstick is reading a little high - maybe 1/16" - 1/8" above the full mark.  The manual called for 3.5 liters which is 250 cc's more than I already filled it with.  

    Am I good or should I drain a little out or add even more?  Sorry!

    I find checking the oil level to be a rather curious affair. Firstly, the dipstick enters the crankcase at an angle, which does not allow precise measurement. The lean angle of the bike when parked on the stand introduces another variable. Any change in the lean of the bike (suspension sag, tire height/profile, or slight uphill/downhill grade tosses another figurative wrench in the gears, said wrench invariably striking the shift detent spring. Was the bike, even though on the side stand, on a level surface? Or was it on a center stand or rear axle spool stand?

    Remember Emerson, Lake and Palmer's song, "The Endless Enigma"?

    • Haha 2
  5. 9 hours ago, gstallons said:

    The first time you go from 1st to 2nd you will not regret what you have done. Mine is homemade and my linkage just clears the frame . It is difficult to find N but all the other gears are just a click away. I installed a new linkage rod w/one rod end that has l.h. threads . I can set the shift lever to any place I want w/just a couple of turns and I am happy. 

    Ain't it ever-so-Guzzi to install both heims on the shift linkage with the same threads? Adjust it all day and the lever moves not one bit. Or is it just my example? 

  6. 7 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

    I'm ashamed, I have yet to have ever balanced mine. Or on my V7 either.

    @Scud is local to me and I believe he has the knowledge and tool to do this. One of these days, I hope to meet up with him, if not for a ride, than a beer in the garage. :bier:

    Beer > Tylenol > beer. Repeat as necessary.

    • Haha 1
  7. 29 minutes ago, audiomick said:

    Till the rubber cracks. :whistle:

     

     

    No, seriously, assuming they are in good nick and not old and hard, just until the rubber starts to show the very first signs of bulging out from under the clamp.

    If they are old and hard, they need to be replaced. B)

    Then back off 1/4 turn. Same with stripping bolts.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2
  8. 3 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

    To my knowledge, yes. The TRX Yamaha made, back in the mid 90's was the first mainstream offset crank parallel twin. Other brands like Honda had made offset cranks work for V twins, allowing them to get less vibration from narrow angle V twins. But the TRX was the first mainstream offset crank parallel twin as far as I know. The same engine also went into the TDM 850, which was already on sale with a 360 crank parallel twin. The 270 parallel twin was pretty much the 360 engine with a 270 crank and matching cams. I seem to recall there was a more cafe version of the TRX that never came here, but I could be wrong. I just seem to recall seeing a picture of one in white with a red trellis frame that was beautiful but never came to the USA. I wanted it.

    So, the offset crank parallel twin has been around for near 3 decades. But it is surging in popularity right now. After Yamaha did it, there was really no one else for a long time. Yamaha took the same basic tech and made the Cross Plane R1 motor, but there wasn't much going on with Parallel twins for years. Everyone wanted a V twin despite the parallel twins better engine packaging. The sideways V twin on a Guzzi works well, but a proper 90 degree V twin that isn't sideways is very hard to properly fit in a compact motorcycle chassis. It clearly can be done, but it isn't always done right (see the TLR).

    I also fell in love with the "Trixie." They are a cult bike elsewhere, still popular in Japan. The early models had oil consumption problems, which was the recall, if "I" recall correctly. I also looked at the more recent MT-07, which was the first wave of the new 270s. It was too much of a "transformer" style for me. The YZF-07 seems a rather nice bike, if slightly extreme for many "mature" riders. Yamaha is often odd-man out in engineering, trying all manner of new designs. In the 689 parallel twin, they moved the cylinder centerline forward in relation to the crank centerline. This gives the rod increased leverage over the crank as it fires. This changes crank angle at TDC, but they have dealt with that. But a piddling 65 BHP out of such a high-tech engine seems a waste, when 75-80 HP is available. Oh, well...

  9. On 1/29/2024 at 9:00 AM, LaGrasta said:

    @Gmc28 Wouldn't you know? I rolled it into the garage Saturday morning, prepared to evaluate the mishap. Just as the forum suggested, turned the key, heard the pump prime, so I hit the ignition. Started right up, idled perfect! I drove it a bit later to Home Depot, about 8 mile round trip, no problems. Then this morning, ride to work, 25 miles one way, no problem. Sheesh.

    btw, I've ridden about 3k or so since replacing the filters, fluids, injectors, plugs, etc.

     

    Have you checked the web for Italian labor union strikes? There may be some sympathy programmed in somewhere. Couple of months ago, My V11 would not activate the starter on one particular day. Key off and on numerous times, pump priming, clutch in and out. Finally had to pop a vein and bump start it. Cleaned the micro-plunger in the clutch safety micro switch, the micro switch clicked in and out as it should. Was fine for a couple of weeks, then did it again, but has not ever since. I do now tend to park with a grade to bump start it though. 

    We hear a lot about "AI" these days. I am much more concerned with "IE" - Italian Electrics.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 5
  10. On 1/24/2024 at 4:03 PM, docc said:

    You say that like it's a bad thing.

    mySport seems quite excited to bare its half-nakedness to the wind . . .

    figurehead.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=12fcc77ce3

    Too many other ships telling you to lower your high beams.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 2
  11. 4 hours ago, audiomick said:

    I see your point, but I find that a V11 without that fairing looks half naked. The fairing balances out the bumptious rear end that they all have. B)

    They do have junk in their trunk. I was hoping for an update of the MKI LeMans, with the safety orange/red bikini fairing. The V11 quarter fairings are very functional, but lacking in aesthetics.

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, docc said:

    In case a bunch of Ballabio show up in the driveway with pitchforks, burning torches . . . :huh: :o :rolleyes:

    Well, mine would have to actually start first...

    The early models, although not really lighter, have a cleaner, more compact look. The longer ones have that cantilevered fairing - good thing I'm sitting behind it. LM plastic always struck me as bulbous. Would like something in between, but I'm playing Goldilocks here.

    • Haha 1
  13. 10 hours ago, red lion said:

    I don't understand. What story is the red line shock proof trans lube telling?

    I learned this from Kevin Cameron's writings in Cycle Magazine. Reciprocating engines do not have a 100% consistent crankshaft RPM. At each firing impulse, the cranks accelerates slightly and on each compression stroke of each revolution, it slows a bit. If you could graph it,the variation in rotational speed could be seen. How this manifests in the V11 would seem to be: the transmission input shaft runs through the clutch disc via a splined connection. There is necessary clearance in those splines so that the clutch disc can freely disengage. Engine out of the bike, you can rattle the input shaft in the clutch disc, even though it is a relatively tight fit. Each firing impulse - especially at idle - clanks those clutch splines against the input shaft splines - first against one side of the splines as the crank accelerates, then against the other side as the crank slows on compression stroke. We are talking only a few thousandths clearance here, but it does make noise, especially with dry clutches in a notice: "bell" housing. Wet clutches do not exhibit this nearly as much, as the splines are cushioned by oil, whereas the Guzzi splines are dry. The same to a lesser extent with the transmission gears engaged by the input shaft - they also make some noise, but they run in lube, which cushions and quiets the blow. There is a solution, but it would involve a heavier, more complex clutch disc with spring-loaded "scissor splines." Not worth the cost and effort.

    Pull the clutch lever in and the clutch disc and transmission input shaft stop rotating and thus the "spline-banging" stops. Singles and twins are worst at this, as their crankshaft accel/decel cycles are more violent. Multi-cylinder engines have smoother crank rotation speeds.

    Somewhat related, years back, Honda had split cam drive gears with a preload between the two halves of the gear to remove the backlash between the gears. This reduced noise - IIRC it was on their 750 V4 Interceptors so that it could pass noise laws. It also reduced dynamic stresses between the gears. Here is a web article which explains far better than I can.

    https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=437206

    The third answer is from someone in the aero industry:

    It's called a scissor gear. They're used on engines with cam/accessory gear drives to reduce dynamic tooth loads due to torsional oscillations. In the case of your Toyota cam gear, the torsional oscillations are produced by the varying forces acting on the cam lobes. There is a moment in one direction as each leading cam flank pushes a valve open, and a moment in the opposite direction as the valve spring pushes against the trailing cam flank during closing. Conventional gears (not scissor gears) require some amount of backlash at the mesh to prevent interference. When there is backlash, reversing torsional oscillations will cause high dynamic contact loads on the gear tooth flanks at the mesh. These high dynamic tooth contact forces also produce noise. While a scissor gear can reduce dynamic tooth loading and noise, it also involves some mechanical losses.

    You'll see them used on other engines like Cummins diesels and Honda motorcycle engines"
    • Like 1
  14. On 1/20/2024 at 11:46 PM, KernowNZ said:

    Hi docc and MartyNZ,

    Thank you both for your replies. That certainly makes me feel better about the clutch noise.

    I am in Napier. The bike was first registered in Christchurch (2001) and I purchased it mid last year near Nelson. I think it has always been in the South Island. I am the 5th owner. I have done some maintenance and parts replacements, as some original parts were missing like the headlight and indicators. The back tail piece was also damaged from a luggage frame. Gutsibits and ebay have been a good source for most parts.

    I will see if I can get in touch with cash1000.

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

    Cheers Jody

    Exact same noise as in my 2004 Ballabio. The rattle with the clutch disengaged is dry clutch rattle. When idling, the rattle strikes me as the input shaft /splines/gears rattling from the rapid acceleration/deceleration of the crank between firing impulses. The Red Line trans lube "Shock-proof" pretty much tells the story.

  15. On 1/11/2024 at 2:08 PM, p6x said:

    It had to happen, sooner or later!

    Piaggio wants to have an entry level bike for Moto Guzzi as every other brand is currently purporting; only it will not be one with the legendary V twin; rather, it would use the Aprilia RS 457 parallel twin, and final chain drive.

    This is not 100% confirmed, it is just a guess: https://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle-news/moto-guzzi-retro-roadster-spy-shots/

    Whoever came up with the idea, I think it is a mistake. Moto Guzzi must remain special and different. I am not certain, slapping an Aprila power plant on a Guzzi chassis will do much to promote the brand. The Guzzi identity must be preserved.

    Why couldn't they take a V7 and make it a V5?

     

    Moto Guzzi has made virtually every imaginable engine type. Sure, they are known for the Vs, but like H-D you then live or die by the Vs. Moto Morini has a cracking 1200 87º V-twin, but Euro-7, 8, 9 emissions killed it for the time being. So, what do they offer? A 660cc parallel twin. So, who might make that engine for such a small company? And an Aprilia-engined Guzzi would be 10K+ how entry level is that?

      Where facts are few, rumors are many.

  16. 7 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

    I saw a few of these in Afghanistan, where Russian contractors operated light freight. They had enclosed bodies, looked like they were carrying a VW bus. Goofy, reliable, and fun to watch. Has a console drink holder for the Vodka.

    Crop dusting all that grain, one's mind begins to think about what could be made from all that grain. On a hot and dusty day. Or a rainy day. A gray day. Any day...

    • Haha 1
  17. Somehow, YouTube's algorithm popped up with this 1960s Soviet designed twin radial-engined helicopter: the Kamov Ka26. Normally a utility and crop-dusting craft, the radial engine thunder and the whine of the cooling fans on the shrouded engines lends an almost Guzzi-like, visceral quality to it. Pilots seem to love it, as it is very benign handling for a 'copter. Apparently, if you lose an engine, you simply have a slower craft. 

     

    • Like 2
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