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po18guy

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Posts posted by po18guy

  1. For what it is worth. I live in rainy town, so I wondered who deals the most with wet roads. The Brits are certainly top 5 if not #1. So, to Avon I have gone. Their bias ply tires served me well on my "collector vehicle" EX500, and so when I picked up a nail in the rear of the V11, I went with the Avon Spirit ST. Dual compound, possibly front and rear - rear for sure. When the front Michi is gone - I suspect its geometry is not ideal for the V11 - I'll mount a Spirit ST on the front as well. The reviews mention that they even work for track days. NOT a concern with me. 

    https://www.avontyres.com/en-us/tyres/spirit-st

    • Haha 1
  2. 15 hours ago, docc said:

    The most common failure of the Clutch Switch is in the "bullet connectors on the forward left side of the frame. Sometimes a "wiggle test" will reveal an intermittent connection failure there: With the bike in neutral, ignition and run switch on, hold the clutch lever in and hold the starter button down while slowly rotating the bars lock-to-lock.  If the starter catches, clean-crimp-treat-seal the bullet connectors . . .

    DSCN1472.jpg

    Simplest way to test the relay is to insert a known good, 5-pin, high current relay in that position. This Picker Components relay has the highest 5th pin (NC) rating I've ever seen (25amps):

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866

    Aha! I recently solved a low battery voltage issue by cleaning and Deox-It-ing the multi-pin connector between the rectifier and the main wiring loom. It is rather exposed to weather (being about one foot below the clutch switch bullet connectors on the left side). It gets wet when washing the bike or riding in the rain, and the water sits and corrodes the contacts. So, off to the bullet connectors.

    NOTE: I had thought that clutch lever gunk had plugged the tiny, easily lost plastic cylinder which operates the clutch safety microswitch. After cleaning and testing, all was fine, but the problem persisted. So, bullet connectors and then the relay if needed. Got those in stock, fortunately.   

    • Like 1
  3. 3 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    The ball end and rod muffler supports aren't a good idea. The mufflers require some amount of lateral and anti rotational support from the hanger bracket, these give zero. When you come up with an idea you never see anyone else do it's either brilliant OR the opposite. This is the opposite. I wish it was a good idea as it would have saved me quite a few hours over the years making and fitting hanger brackets.

    Phil

    OK, so other than OEM, what have you done? What survives?

    • Confused 1
  4. Did a valve adjustment. And thanks to KINDOY2, I have some spiffy head guards. While I was polishing them, I also brightened up the valve cover bolt heads, so I fully expect to dazzle a few motorists in today's sun.

    IMG_3310.JPG

    In search of "approved" muffler hangers.

    • Like 4
  5. 4 hours ago, Kane said:

    Got mine today, Chuck. As always, very nice work. Thank you!

    Mine is classic black, but that is a nice shade of blue.

     

     

    The stealth color is so that none of your riding buddies will know that you have the shifting advantage.

    • Haha 1
  6. The learning curve is steep.

    Clutch: As to the clutch, I recently had trouble with air in the line. Removed the rear wheel so that my fumble fingers could get in there. Most do not have to, but it is a bit of a wrestle to reach the bleeder screw. I thought, the line goes upward - all the air is at the master on the handlebar. So, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master and all is happy motoring since. 

    Screen%20Shot%202021-06-23%20at%208.37.1

    Oil: Inside the oil sump is a screen. Since you might be in there, good time to check it and clean it, since the bike has only been ridden 1,100-1.200 miles per year or so. Since the oil filter mounts top up, I fill the filter with oil when installing a new one. Just that  much less time for pressure to build once you start it. I use HifloFiltro HF551 filters, which are generally pretty well regarded. Use a good oil for flat tappets (like Harley oil, diesel engine oil or similar) with enough zinc to protect your cam.

    Shifting: A couple of "post-Guzzi engineer" members here have brainstormed a few things for shifting. First - in your case - would be the bolt-on "Lucky Phil Extender" which shortens the throw of the shift lever. That is half your problem. And, as I have been well advised, it is also a big help to preload the shifter with your toe just before clutching. That helps all that mechanism into motion when the time comes.

    The other is a shift mechanism spring, which most of us will need at one point - but it requires quite a bit more digging into the trans. For a tune up, you might try some iridium plugs, as I found quicker starts/less cranking. The rest is in the "Decent Tuneup" thread.  Gives you something to do with all of your spare time :rolleyes:

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. My '04 has clear signal lenses and the following is the combo I settled on. I have used these for about two years now - no problems. In addition to the side LEDS which use the OEM reflector, the bulbs have a projector lens on the ends which focus the light straight behind you.

    https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Extremely-Bright-replacement/dp/B07BXNMNRF/ref=sr_1_22?crid=NJN75N30DW71&keywords=ibrightstar&qid=1658273217&sprefix=ibrightstar%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-22

    Screen%20Shot%202022-07-19%20at%204.30.2

    And this flasher unit - adjustable blink rate  -also works well.

    https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Flasher-Electronic-Signal-Adjustable/dp/B091PXFXFD/ref=sr_1_23?crid=1603YA1WSJQ6M&keywords=led+flasher+unit&qid=1658273542&s=automotive&sprefix=led+flasher+unit%2Cautomotive%2C147&sr=1-23

    Screen%20Shot%202022-07-19%20at%204.32.5

    It even has the tab to fit in the OEM location.

    IMG_3287.JPG

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  8. I learned to love the sound of gear drive cams in the late 60s. Drag racing cars, then Nascar at a short track I worked at. At about the 2:05 point and later, the siren song can be heard. Bike must be fast as it appears to have melted the fairing around the rider. :rolleyes:

     

    • Like 4
    • Haha 1
  9. On 7/10/2022 at 4:28 AM, Walterg said:

    Sorry but I'm still/again having some doubts about whether I can ride my bike without making things worse so I made a 10 second video. The reflection on the painted wall shows what I'm doing and you may have to turn up the volume when you play it.


    Transmission rattle video with sound

    Sounds like a Teo Lamers centerstand dragging on the ground.  Do you have a vid of the bike rolling in neutral, clutch out? If there was no noise under those conditions, then the trans "should be" fine. Points to the clutch or something in the clutch housing. Loose bolt or bit of clutch lining banging around?

  10. On 12/19/2021 at 10:03 PM, Scud said:

    I ordered a Ford Bronco over a year ago, threw down my $100 deposit when they started taking reservations. Still don't have it due to various shortages. I assume it will be my last new ICE 4-wheeler. At this point, the only likely candidate for a new ICE motorcycle is a Husqvarna FE350S. But I kind of like the new Honda Trail 125. But gosh - that's pretty close to the price of an electric bicycle.

    And I assume large countries, like the US, Canada, and Australia will be slower to ban ICE vehicles, just due to the distances people want to drive. It's gonna take a lot of infrastructure to support long drives. 

    All that said, I am toying with the idea of a plug-in hybrid vehicle for all the boring driving. But so far, that seems about as exciting as buying a refrigerator.

     

    I strongly suspect that the apocalypse will predate all such 'best laid plans of mice and men'.

    • Like 1
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