po18guy
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Posts posted by po18guy
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Eternal rest unto a him!
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Chinese ownership: Benelli, Moto Morini, Pirelli. Manufacturing/Tech agreements: KTM and who else?
Chinese money has been the quick fix, but you might as well give them the company as the CCP will steal everything it can. Remember that "China" is a 75 year old, amoral nation, where the national motto is 可以的话作弊 (cheat if you can).
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17 hours ago, p6x said:
In Guzziology, the author explains why one should not use the recommended valve clearance of admission 0.10 mm and 0.15 mm in the US.
According to the author, the tighter clearances were Guzzi's attempt to minimize oxides of N2 for emission compliance in the US.
The author recommends to always add 0.02 inch to the nominal valve clearances; that would be 0.5 mm and would verify what @Admin Jaap said above in this thread, 11 years ago...
The reason why I brought up this topic, is that when I gave my V11 for chest gasket exchange, Davey told me he had checked my valve clearances, and found them too tight. I was surprised since I had scrupulously followed the manual and perfectly set mine for 0.1 and 0.15 mm respectively.
Both tight may indicate that the engine was not as cold as when you set them.
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8 hours ago, p6x said:
As strange as it may be, I am warming up a lot to the Flying Fortress;
I thought the Griso was going to be my third and final Guzzi, but it is close to the V11 in terms of spirit.
There are some MGX-21s with low mileage around me, slightly North of 10k.
Not sure about the weight though...
Fellow on the Kawi forum is looking at a 2-valve Norge today. "And now for somthing completely different..."
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5 hours ago, Sporticus said:
I appreciate all the responses. Thank you. Unfortunately, mine is not at all visible on the right side. Time to do some exploratory surgery.
Oh. Maybe went bungee jumping? There is sound advice to swap the springs from the seat release under the tailpiece with the fast idle spring. The seat release can use more pressure and the fast idle, less.
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5 hours ago, Molly said:
Celebratory beer... Had to look a the manual's drawing to appreciate how releasing fluid would find its way to the splines. Removed the grease nipple and put loads of WD40 in that way. Reassembled my contraption, heated the heck out of it, and it finally let go.
Safety third!
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6 hours ago, PJPR01 said:
That's a must buy! Perfect for transporting kids to school!
"Behave or you go in the Ape!!!"
Add doors and you almost have a Fiat 500.
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3 hours ago, David Sandbrook said:
Okay gentlemen, thank you so much for the guidance here. A volt-meter check a few months ago suggested it was charging okay while running; but obviously not. Maybe the battery was already damaged. So, I will start with the charging system and voltage regulator check, with new battery if necessary. At the same time check the plugs and po18guy's multi-pin connector cleaning. There is enough here to keep me going for a while.
Cheers to you all,
David
Not only keeps you going, it hopefully gets you going. These really should have been the sealed 'AMP' connectors, but that's for another life.
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Had a poor > no start issue. There is a multi-pin connector on the left front of the frame from the regulator/rectifier wiring loom. It is not a sealed connector and is exposed to rain, road spray, soap, etc. Separate it and clean the terminals on both sides using a pipe cleaner soaked in contact cleaner, denatured alcohol or similar. Probe as far into the connectors as you can, then use air or canned "duster" to blow everything out and dry it. Then, probe and swab the contacts using a fresh pipe cleaner with Caig DeoxIt on it, then plug and unplug 2-3 times to ensure good contact. I had no problems since. A check of running voltage with a multimeter will let you know if all is OK. Mine was 14.02V, which is "acceptable."
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On 10/24/2024 at 6:44 PM, docc said:
Of course, I want one!
But NOT with Tyco relays!!!
Oh crap, the yaw control is intermittant. Let me just pull to the side of the......
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So now when I shoot them overhead I can be charged with murder rather than vandalism?
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3 hours ago, docc said:
Hmmm, a theme recurs . . .
Goodbye Milton, good riddance Helene.
Hello, Hurricane Girl . . .
Based on recent events, we need her to sing a duet.
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20 hours ago, Guzzi-in-Vancouver said:
I am curious about the LED headlamp that seems to fit the fairing perfectly. Or did they use a shim?
I converted to LED, using Taiwanese units sold by PERaccurate on eBay. A bit of stuffing to fit in the bucket, but it all eventually fits in. They are rotatable to customize the beam pattern.
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39 minutes ago, MontGuzzi said:
When I rode home tonight everything worked perfectly. I can only assume that taking the relays out, putting back in a seating them took care of the corrosion that was on them. You can see the green corrosion in the photo above. I was kinda bummed I didn’t get to test @audiomick’s theory, but happyhave have things running properly. Thanks all!
"What I did" - Brushed the relay blades, coated them with Caig's DeoxIT. Cleaned the female terminals in the relay box with pipe cleaners and solvent, then the same with a pipe cleaner and DeoxIt. It not only neutralizes and removes corrosion, it leaves a thin protective layer.
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16 hours ago, MontGuzzi said:
Thanks for the input all. I have a little more data after my ride home tonight. It died again on me and wouldn’t even turn over. I toggled the kill switch on and off and it started right up. I repeated this four more times, spirited acceleration, bike dies, activate and deactivate kill switch, and it started right up. This seems pretty squarely electrical, but I’m not sure where to start now. Any suggestions?
Ahh. More info is always good in online diagnostics. The level of amperage that these miniature relays conduct reminds me of the various Chinese electric water kettles. They also use tiny contact points to transmit big current. It works. For awhile.
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A little risky, but leaving the tank cap ajar and trying acceleration again (1/4 tank or less) might point to the cap vent being the problem. Some Japanese bikes use a rubber "duck bill" vent in the cap which hardens and becomes a seal, causing the same starvation problem. Might as well try the quick and dirty fix first.
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2004 Ballabio.
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When you find them - unless they are a common stock - might buy several sets, ArmorAll them and wrap in a plastic bag.
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On 8/21/2024 at 9:36 AM, wavey_davey1 said:
Ok, so as per my recent "introduce yourself" post, I have bought a Coppa Italia imported from Japan by a dealer, described as a "barn find".
In this case I actually think it might have been in a barn! The date code on the tyres is 2007 and there's numerous signs around the bike of having been stored either in slightly damp conditions and/or UV damage though fundamentally in good condition? I suspect it might be a deceased estate purchase as there's a few expensive extras that came with it, but also signs of poor storage, we'll never know?
I'm no stranger to restorations (which is not how I see this project) having resurrected a T3 Cali, numerous 60s/70s Bonnevilles and Commandos etc, but never really had that much involvement with a spine frame over and above tank-off checklist type stuff. I see this one as requiring a bit more than that somehow!
First hurdle was getting the badly uv hardened paint film off without destroying the paint and decals underneath. So far it's working, albeit very slow process (combination of gentle heat gun and specialised solvent) but the tailpiece decals aren't clearcoated so will have to repair small areas or source new ones/get copies made, we'll see.
I wanted to clean it up a bit before any stripdown or startup, as much to give me some motivation as anything else. It's really filthy, even under the tank etc. Oddly though oils look clean as does brake fluid, and there's a small amount of what looks like reasonably fresh fuel in the tank, which I'll change out before powering up the pump etc.
I've sourced new oil, oil filter, fuel filter and just had 10 Picker relays arrive from Digikey in the states (2 days shipment time!) as it currently has the dreaded Tycos.
Will post a few updates as and when, (and steer specific questions into the technical forum) though this project is competing with my brother's BSA 250 charging issue and a few other bits and pieces, plus the demands of a 10 year old daughter, so it's not going to be a 2 weeks and ride off into the sunset thing.
It must have been stored indoors near a source of ozone. I have NEVER seen tyres cracked like that. I still have a 1971 Pirelli Universal on an ancient Yamaha and it is in far better condition.
Would naphtha slowly dissolve the goo on the tank? Or, is that what you are using?
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On 8/16/2024 at 5:17 PM, gstallons said:
1 minute and 2 seconds was enuf for me ! Great ! Any one that can play the lickin' stick like that....... I'm all in
Dave Edmunds is far too little known in the US. However, he did one blues song that had notable lickin' stick.
I was surprised to hear that the song was written by Huey Lewis. What's more, Huey was on harmonica. My favorite Huey on harmonica was always Workin' for a livin'
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-OR- you can install a bleeder banjo bolt at the high point in the system, the clutch master. I did that and it eliminated the air problems.
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I just buy banjo bolts from RaceTi or RaceBoltUK. SS, Ti or even aluminium for lower stress applications. RaceBolt, in particular, delivered my order from the UK to the west coast USA in 7 calendar days from my mouse click. Incredible.
On 9/12/2024 at 3:36 PM, Speedfrog said:That would be very, very difficult, I'd venture to say quite an impossible task I recon
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Do you have the breakout harness for setting the TPS? That alone makes a huge difference.
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20 minutes ago, audiomick said:
Nitpicking...
Macro.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macro_photography
Sorry....
PS: I've got a couple of fairly good Macro lenses for my old Pentax Spotmatic camera bodies, and they are really good fun.
A counter-intuitive term. In the field of economics. macro economics is big picture, long haul type stuff, whereas micro is, well...micro. Updated after a visit to the local nanoscience lab.
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Resurrection of 2004 Ballabio
in 24/7 V11
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"Might" consider coating the tank to preserve the graphics. Unless they are already bubbled.