Grim

Another update. Not the relay. It is the wiring to the front left indicator. I can't quite understand, as if it is shorting somewhere shouldn't it be blowing fuses? If I wobble it in the right direction I can get it to work, which then puts the tacho back in action too. Maybe there is an internal break in the wire. Time to start stripping wires in hard to access places😁

An update, I bled the clutch, filled up the gearbox oil (a quantity seemed to have fallen on the floor in objection to my mediocre lean angle), and the gearbox is now wonderful and not leaking in the slightest. A first for my ownership. Now now now, don't get excited... I have a new problem. I am a keen adherent to the adage "correlation is not causation". But, I am also neurotic and an overthinker, and prone to not following my own advice. Did 300 miles yesterday, and all was good, except towards the end my usually erratic tachometer suddenly ceased to... tach. It was dusk, and I was on the motorway going 70mph (yes officer). And I realised I also had no indicators to add to my anxiety. I instantly thought relay, but then my troubled mind turned to my recent fettling. Was something earthing, wouldn't that blow a fuse.. hmmm. Bizarrely, and most Italianly, I realised I could get everything working again by shifting down, and making the neutral idiot light come on, then all was well for a few minutes. On the overrun this would happen again, the needle jumping absolutely all over the place but mostly at zero. Same, shift down, shift back up and the indicators, backlights and idiot lights would work again for a while. Headlight bulbs and brake light still worked throughout. Now, I don't believe it, but could my neutral switch wire be doing anything here? It was cleaned and firmed up when I put the gearbox cover back on...or is this just the relay. Most contacts I could get at on the recent stripdown where put in a nicer, less stressful position, cleaned up and tightened where necessary. I am going to swap relays over now, it's difficult to tell because with the bike sat in the garage everything works...

Ok thank you both. I feel like it would either work or be completely wrong. Rather than a little bit. Interesting about he external stuff Docc, at one point, thinking I was being sensible, I put the shift lever connector rod back on with the Allen head on the outside and the nyloc nut on the inside ( because it made more sense to actually be able to tighten it). Then it really wouldn't go into first as the nut hit the outer face of the selector plate!! Took me a while and a bit of flaked off paint to realise.... Nothing else is hitting, and it does go into first quite satisfyingly when it does, it just sometimes... Doesn't 😂

Hi, as title says. I am planning some longer trips and my bike is at 47k miles so thought might as well do some preventative maintenance. With the bike I'm neutral I got the selector plate off, marked the two large gears where they met, and removed circuits and gears to pop out the selector. Someone had done this before, I could see. Kindly punching the various bits where they lined up. Getting it back together was ok, holding the spring out the way to get the gears back down on their shafts was tricky but everything lined up once more. Cover plate went back on fine, the two pins sticking out of slides on the gearbox shaft were centered and no resistance was met. Now, can you do this wrong? With everything seeming right? First feels a bit wooden, when it goes it is very positive, with more clunk than before, and the return spiring action is great now. Bit sometimes I noticed it just heads like a dead stop and won't go into first. Rolling the bike a bit on neutral let's it go on the next try. I may need to bleed my clutch, bit I needed to do that before anyway! Thanks

Blow torch to the rescue! Yes they do move eventually but channel locks, pipe wrench, nothing was moving it until I got it red hot. Thank you for the advice!

Thanks Phil, I will do the same, my issue is I cannot turn the Flexi line nut off more than half a turn as it turns the line and distorts it. I am hoping I can free it off but it doesn't feel like a swivel attachment. Was it on yours?

Thanks, I guess mine has seized a bit, as the line is kinking when I tighten that nut back onto the nipple.. I sprayed on some plusgas, I was holding the line with pliers and it still rotated with the nut. I'll leave it to stew for a while.

Hello, as the title suggests, I have an oil leak and it appears that the oil feed head attachment on the left hand head has loosened off a bit. The problem I have, is that if I tighten the head attachment (long 14mm nut) then my oil line kinks, as the fitting that attaches the line to the head does not appear to be a swivel, or at least, it is not swiveling. So I cant tighten the line to head but as it just kinks the line. Where these ever swivel joints?

AHH, that is what I paid, plus £20 delivery from France of course!!

Got some at half the price from Pete at Reboot Guzzi spares... Once again an excellent choice!

Thanks Steve, you back on a V11 now?

Here's my interpretation.

Hi, I stupidly sold mine a few years ago thinking I was cool and would never need to have a pillion passenger... Well the time has come and someone wants to have a little jaunt, so I need something for them to put their feet on!! Anyone help me out? Thanks

I run mistral headers/cross over and straight through carbon cans with the Titanium map and it runs beautifully, if anything I bet it is a little rich still. Decent tune up, clean filters/fluids etc, sort our your leccy and it's all good!

I agree with you there, my friend runs a garage/motorcycle breakers and sells all the parts on Ebay.. He just has to wait a loooong time to sell some parts, he's had my guzzi exhausts on there for 2 years now!

Isn't it strange that the percieved value of V11 parts is so much higher than the actual price people are willing to pay; Nothing ever sells at the prices people set, I have a friend in the the trade who cannot shift Guzzi parts at the prices he sets, some sit on Ebay for years. I just sold an early tank with all the bits for £70 ($94), yet the frequent asking price for this is often over £200 ($270), even with scratches/bits missing. I know demand isn't that high, but I guess a if you play the waiting game... Me? I was advised by high command that the shed needed to be more empty, ASAP.

Ahhh, can't tomorrow, is that a club ride?

Yes, I got the whole lot, it certainly neatened up under the tank getting rid of the pump and filter!

Finally got my late model tank wired and connected properly, doing the fuel lines was the worst bit. And before...

Thanks, so could it be wired backwards? I cannot for the life of me find a wiring diagram for the in tank fuel level sender. My 2002 harness has white/yellow and black wires for the old sender. The new sender has blue and white wires, it had no plug when I bought it.

Since the sender unit acts like a short when the level is low, it doesn't matter which way the blue/white wires connect to the harness? I went white to white/yellow and black to blue... But nothing seems to happen. Thanks

Hi, can anyone do me a quick diagram of how the fuel lines sit on an internal pump bike please? I've tried a few ways and the best I can get is this: Looking down on the spine, black squares are TBs, the green is the output from the tank and red is return. Seems the possibility for links is endless!

Yup, no electronic petcock here, just the sender connector and the big beefy fuel pump wires. It's tricky to find the opposite end of the in tank Guzzi fuel pump connector, it would be simplest to keep the pump side in tact.

As always, I appreciate that I can get sensible answers to my (not always sensible) questions in this forum!!

I have the tank all sorted, hoses done and test fit successful....but, I am trying to find on the wiring diagram which wires are the fuel level sender and which are the pump. I have a 2 pin connector on the tank that seems to match the connector on the bike that was for the fuel level sender, however the other wires coming off the tank are blue and white, and weedy looking, probably not high enough amp for the pump. So common sense says the thin blue and white wires are the sender, the red and black are the pump, and it is coincidence that the pump plug on the tank matches the sender plug on the bike!!!??! Should I just find some 2 pin auto plugs and start again, not re-using anything?