Grim

I like the shiny blue banjo... On pre-pump in tank bikes the hose has to bend round the fliter at a wired angle too, so it hits the airbox at an angle.

Yes it looked exactly the same, I added a hose clamp where the breather hose joins the airbox, as the hose is loose I didn't have a good replacement. It won't stop the oil INSIDE the airbox leaking out around the plastic intake trumpet though!

Spent a day taking the bike apart, cleaned the top gearbox mount areas and I can't see any cracks, all looks good. I traced the oil to the bottom of the airbox, running down from the base of the loose breather hose, then down inner left an getting all over the general area. I should add that oil has also run down the inside of the airbox on the left hand side and seeped out around the intake rubber, adding to the general oilyness in the area. Anyway, good to have a cleanup with the tank and airbox off the bike

Just a heads up. Do not use a locknut on your adjustment rod....🙄 So I put this locknut on last time because I didn't trust the plastic nut not to move, but I just got everything in sync, left the bit running and as I held the plastic but in place and tightened my little locknut, I watched the sync go off by one vacuum inch. I guess it must squeez the nylon washer and pull the rod through a touch. Jeez. I did go over the intake rubbers again and do the valves yet again (using my tiny German 3.5mm spanner). Well even with everything synced I need air screws out half a turn to make it idle with Meinhof's map, I didn't use the wacky sounding valve clearances though .003 for both?! My idle still ends up at about 590mv. But, the left is not missing, which is a win I'm my book!

Is this the code for the Omrons? G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 It seems they are on eBay now, they were not available last year when I looked.

I found some Panasonic CM1-R-12V That seemed to for the bill. I see Omons might be available from China now.

Honestly, my coils look incredibly crappy, covered in mud and stuff. I guess the resistance was good so I left it at that, I have often dreamt of sticking some nice shiny coils on it..😌

Right now I am yes. I went with the method of backing out the right side and only using the left screw.

I agree, I was trying to do it 'by the book' for the map, but I guess its better to have a bike that ticks over.

O guess it rules out any differences in adjustment. He says to sync idle on the throttle stops. The cylinder behaves well on throttle and the 3k sync is good. It just doesn't want to idle!

I have not tried the injectors, I will try that next! Yeah, the air bypass screws closed, that is only because Mienhof recommends it with his map. Thanks

It was all going so well.. I decided that with my Mistral crossover and straight through carbon exhaust cans I should richen things up with Meinhof's map. ... But now I'm back with a weak left cylinder! Not sure what happened but it's running weak and fouling the plug. 😭 I think the lower idle uncovered it, my idle was quite high with the Ti map. Things I had done previously to get to this point: Set valves to world values. Reset TPS Did a compression test, ok Tested coil resistance, ok Air screws all the way in Synced TBs at idle with rod Synced TBs at 3k with rod No exhaust leaks New intake rubbers With all that done, the left cylinder is missing a bit at idle, if I pull the plug lead from the right cylinder then it stalls after a few seconds, however if I pull the left plug lead and the right cylinder will run happily. What could make the left cylinder do this, I'm at a bit of a loss. Thanks

Hi, thought I would give it another go, found the idle dropped to 1000 at 521mv with the air screws closed. Anyone else using this map, is it ok just just set the idle where I want it (C1100) using the left idle stop screw and not worry about the MV going up? ..Cylinders are in sync at idle and 3k. Thanks

Thanks, is this the mount that sit on an axle through the bottom/rear of the gearbox? It really look like it's coming from the top, parallel with the back of the starter. Is there another crack prone mount further up the gearbox?

Is that the large hose on the second photo? It looks depressingly dry from the side view, I was hoping it would be that.

Whilst I have searched to the best of my ability, I am failing to understand this oil leak from the area around the top of the gearbox. I am using shockproof light in the gearbox, which is blue and smelly; the oil leak is not blue, or smelly. The green highlight is the path of the oil, after cleaning everything. As it was collecting around the gearbox drain plug it was hard to determine where it was coming from originally, but after cleaning I have seen a trickle of fresh oil making its way down this path. It then goes behind the starter, and down to the gearbox drain plug. The sheen on the clutch slave is not oil, it's just a bad paint job, I assure you! It's all dry around the back and under the clutch slave. The oil breather pipe on top of the engine seems dry. Before I take everything apart, is there a drain hole in the airbox? I know oil gets in there quite a bit. That's all I can see up top above where the oil seems to be originating. Any ideas?

Yeah, probably end up doing that, along with the rear wheel if I ever find a cheap drive plate to put on it!

... you haven't got a spare one have you? Mine is one of the rusty ones.

Ok, may have to swap it out for green when I can get my hands on some. There was no scoring in the bearing housing the old bearing was toast though. The spacer is an uneven 113mm, a bit bashed up in places, the collar parts are wavy but I think they are non critical.

Yeah, like when you get it lined up it just slides in, not rattling about.

I put a few spots of what I loctite I had (blue) on there. Do the bearing housings get worn? Seems I can get one for about £150 from gutsibits.

I ended up putting the ti map back on, I couldn't get the idle set up with Meinolf's map, but I gather there is 'a procedure'. For resetting everything to cope with the richness at idle.

Ok, put everything back together, one issue is the new wheel bearing on the cush drive plate went in just as easy as the old one came out, does this mean I need a new drive plate? That might be an issue as ALL the button head bolts that hold it on look chewed up😭

In the UK, at least where I am from, everything seems to be online only. Not many independent fastener stores left, just DIY places that sell general house stuff.

I feel like there might be paint over this rust... At least I cleaned up the driveshaft and greased the notorious front UJ. I should have taken before shots of the back one, was unrecognisable.